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What Did You Do To Your Roxor This Weekend?

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I am slowly tinkering with putting on my composite cab even though I am still waiting for the back close out piece to show up since Dec 8. I'll use cardboard if I have to till it shows. I am getting tired of the zippers on the soft cab.

One thing I really like about the OEM composite cab, from my Roxor dealer, is I can use the windshield and roof that I already have and I love the large cut back door opening. I would not buy a cab with a straight up door, that was an absolute deal breaker for me. I mocked one up and I said 'no friggin' way', the door is just too small and way to big of blind spot and absolutely no vision to the side, constantly leaning forward to see where I was going in my trails and I couldn't hang out the door to back up. This cab will work for me I think. I will make another post someday with some pictures and review once I get it all on and done.

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Cloud

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Took mine apart and became mildly annoyed at it.

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Does that coolant look rusty to you? That's The drain plug from the thermostat housing I believe.

There was definitely an orange, sediment looking stuff floating in the coolant I drained. Should we be using some sort of additive to prevent pitting? Old international 7.3 and 6.0 IDI diesels in the 87-91 F350s (and many other applications) needed additive to prevent pitting.

20210227_192105.jpg 20210227_191900.jpg 20210227_191801.jpg
 

txroadkill

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No idea what the factory fill was. In my research on the coolant specs I found that the same specs were from an OAT and HOAT I believe. The problem was the two weren’t compatible. i asked Kyle maki what the factory used and never got a straight answer regarding brand other than the specs listed in the book. So I just drained it all and flushed with distilled water and put in some peak fleet charge. It’s a red coolant used in semis and good for 500,000 miles. It has the additive to prevent electrolysis which is what pits the liners in class 8 truck engines And also what they‘re trying to stop in the power strokes. So now I have peace of mind of what coolant I have as well as it’s protection abilities. I also remember dexcool having a sediment. I wonder if the factory antifreeze is prone to having a sediment dropout.
 

Cloud

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No idea what the factory fill was. In my research on the coolant specs I found that the same specs were from an OAT and HOAT I believe. The problem was the two weren’t compatible. i asked Kyle maki what the factory used and never got a straight answer regarding brand other than the specs listed in the book. So I just drained it all and flushed with distilled water and put in some peak fleet charge. It’s a red coolant used in semis and good for 500,000 miles. It has the additive to prevent electrolysis which is what pits the liners in class 8 truck engines And also what they‘re trying to stop in the power strokes. So now I have peace of mind of what coolant I have as well as it’s protection abilities. I also remember dexcool having a sediment. I wonder if the factory antifreeze is prone to having a sediment dropout.
What is OAT and HOAT?

Also, not that it matters at all, those old Fords weren't powerstrokes. 92+ were though
 

txroadkill

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Well the IDI’s were 6.9 and 7.3. The 6.0 you mentioned was indeed a power stroke. Regardless diesels need the SCA‘s or an antifreeze that doesn’t need the sca but provides the same type of protection.

What Is The Difference Between HOAT Coolant and OAT Coolant? - MotorCare Guys
kinda a quick run down on coolants. My main concern was incompatibility and sludge forming. So when in doubt flush and start from scratch. Only downside is the extra expense. But peace of mind is priceless
 

Roxasuras

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Peace of mind is priceless, especially when you worry about everything(I know I do with a lot of things)
 

Cloud

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Well the IDI’s were 6.9 and 7.3. The 6.0 you mentioned was indeed a power stroke. Regardless diesels need the SCA‘s or an antifreeze that doesn’t need the sca but provides the same type of protection.

What Is The Difference Between HOAT Coolant and OAT Coolant? - MotorCare Guys
kinda a quick run down on coolants. My main concern was incompatibility and sludge forming. So when in doubt flush and start from scratch. Only downside is the extra expense. But peace of mind is priceless
Aww yeah. I meant 6.9. the 7.3 is my favorite engine.

Didn't realize it was all diesels that need protection from pitting, just assumed it was specific to those blocks.

I'm not a mechanic or a metallurgist
 

txroadkill

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Yea it’s all diesels. Essentially the coolant gets bubbles in it and then they work on the lining cavitating until it wears thru I t. I believe it’s a harmonic thing that causes it. Not 100% sure. I think I read it is any engines sitting and not running won’t pit. Of course those small diesels don’t have liners but I think the blocks pit. Lots of info on this online. It’s why engines in the 70’s only went 100,000 then had to be overhauled. Dad said we had one that went just over 100,000 then electrolysis got it. Now modern antifreeze has the additives to prevent it. Plus the metallurgy is better.
 

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Got the electric fan and new grille installed. Need to get some pepper coolant to flush it and get things buttoned up.

Still have some wiring I might knock out tomorrow.

Maybe next weekend I can start the long travel suspension

20210306_105613.jpg
 

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The lighting is pretty bad in my shop but here's a pic of the fan and shroud installed.

Now that I've done it, the quick instructions from diesel freak makes more sense. They said they put self tapping screws into the radiator flange. Turns out, the radiator flange is a piece of aluminum C-channel that is a good distance away from any plumbing.

I opted to drill holes for 3/16" machine screws with nuts and fender washers to secure it in place. Turned out pretty well. I also used permatex ultra black for, hopefully, some anti vibration effect

20210306_110553.jpg
 

Cloud

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Well the IDI’s were 6.9 and 7.3. The 6.0 you mentioned was indeed a power stroke. Regardless diesels need the SCA‘s or an antifreeze that doesn’t need the sca but provides the same type of protection.

What Is The Difference Between HOAT Coolant and OAT Coolant? - MotorCare Guys
kinda a quick run down on coolants. My main concern was incompatibility and sludge forming. So when in doubt flush and start from scratch. Only downside is the extra expense. But peace of mind is priceless
And now I'm curious what the hell SCA is?

Im thinking zerex Asian would be good?
 

txroadkill

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And now I'm curious what the hell SCA is?

Im thinking zerex Asian would be good?

SCA: Supplemental Coolant Additives

Not gonna recommend this for the stock coolant or a coolant to top off with as I don’t know for sure what’s in it from factory. Being as it’s red and the manual doesn’t mention checking coolant I don’t think you need it. In fact you might even damage the coolant by adding it. I changed coolant to an extended life coolant so I’m good.


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Cloud

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SCA: Supplemental Coolant Additives

Not gonna recommend this for the stock coolant or a coolant to top off with as I don’t know for sure what’s in it from factory. Being as it’s red and the manual doesn’t mention checking coolant I don’t think you need it. In fact you might even damage the coolant by adding it. I changed coolant to an extended life coolant so I’m good.


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Based on the fact that we don't know what the original is: I'm flushing mine and refilling with a known substance. Add in the fact that mine is loaded with sediment and it's a no brainier. I've already drained mine so some distilled water and I guess a good HOAT coolant and I should be good.

Anybody feel like dumbing down the phosphate vs silicate thing for me?

This wormhole just keeps getting deeper.
 

AZROX

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Started building doors from aluminum I had left over from the top I built last year. I think I am about 6 hours into the fun, relaxing project.

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I made a template, cut the 1/8 aluminum with a skill saw (non ferrous metal blade) and reciprocating saw, and used a belt sander to finish the edges.

Since I dont have a break to bend the top rail, I made cuts at half the thicknes of the material. With the cuts, I was able to use some angle iron to make the bends along the cuts. I will add some spot welds on the inside of the bends for strength.

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To fit the doors to all the angles around the top edge of the tub, I made a few more cuts than the factory doors have (I think).

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I will add some 3/16 or 1/4 aluminum on the inside for additional strength. The 1/8 is plenty strong, but I like to over engineer.

Black powder coat and latches will finish the doors.

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Roxasuras

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Started building doors from aluminum I had left over from the top I built last year. I think I am about 6 hours into the fun, relaxing project.

View attachment 8772

I made a template, cut the 1/8 aluminum with a skill saw (non ferrous metal blade) and reciprocating saw, and used a belt sander to finish the edges.

Since I dont have a break to bend the top rail, I made cuts at half the thicknes of the material. With the cuts, I was able to use some angle iron to make the bends along the cuts. I will add some spot welds on the inside of the bends for strength.

View attachment 8773

To fit the doors to all the angles around the top edge of the tub, I made a few more cuts than the factory doors have (I think).

View attachment 8774

I will add some 3/16 or 1/4 aluminum on the inside for additional strength. The 1/8 is plenty strong, but I like to over engineer.

Black powder coat and latches will finish the doors.

View attachment 8775
Very nice
 
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