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What to do when engine blows up?

Wm435

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You’re good on the gear/tire ratio. My numbers were from when I was running 33s and 4.88s. Very similar rpm range to what you were running, I’m now on 35s. Need to step up my tune for extended road use though. I wouldn’t worry bout the tune. Is the radiator clean of mud/bugs for good airflow?

@dieselfreak whats your thoughts on these temps?
I'm running 3000 RPMS on the highway at 70mph
 

txroadkill

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I'm running 3000 RPMS on the highway at 70mph
I’m about 2700 I think. But I’m also fully armored along with a bug heavy warn 8274 winch up front. Do you still have the factory fan? I think they’re probably unobtainium by now but the fan shroud that was offered back in the past could help your temps.
 
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I live in the 190s all day in the city streets, I only climb up to 220s once in the highway going with traffic at 70mph. And I've only been to 230 tops a handful of times.

I'm sure the extra weight of the tires does not help, since I'm running 35s, with 5.39 gears. Plus I have a custom hot tune from Wade


Does anyone recommend a different brand then the one I'm currently running?
That's not real bad, but a little warm. If you don't have an intercooler, that will help a bunch. I sometimes get that warm bombing down the highway with 4 adults and the AC blasting, but turning that off for 30-60 seconds brings it right back down. Takes quite a while to heat soak back up. Could be your hotter tune though.

I run Zerex brand in just about everything. I kind of hot tuned my boat and temps were up, added a coolant surfactant which lowers surface tension and there was a visible difference. Changing the coolant every so often is never a bad idea (which I DEFINATELY need to do), but you could get a little bottle of that surfactant additive and see what happens as a cheap test. If temps drop a little, definitely change coolant or at least measure the mix. If there is no change, then you are not dissipating heat fast enough for one reason or another.

If I had to guess your coolant is fine, it's just all the bolt ons are generating enough heat that the radiator is at max capacity for what it can shed. Both my 82 Dodge Rampages have a larger radiator than Roxor. lol
 

Wm435

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Thank you gentlemen for your valuable insights.

This is my setup to mitigate and to get rid of the extra heat:

EGR delete
catalytic converter delete
2.5 inch dual exhaust
rx41 turbo
intercooler kit
electric fan
 

Wm435

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That's not real bad, but a little warm. If you don't have an intercooler, that will help a bunch. I sometimes get that warm bombing down the highway with 4 adults and the AC blasting, but turning that off for 30-60 seconds brings it right back down. Takes quite a while to heat soak back up. Could be your hotter tune though.

I run Zerex brand in just about everything. I kind of hot tuned my boat and temps were up, added a coolant surfactant which lowers surface tension and there was a visible difference. Changing the coolant every so often is never a bad idea (which I DEFINATELY need to do), but you could get a little bottle of that surfactant additive and see what happens as a cheap test. If temps drop a little, definitely change coolant or at least measure the mix. If there is no change, then you are not dissipating heat fast enough for one reason or another.

If I had to guess your coolant is fine, it's just all the bolt ons are generating enough heat that the radiator is at max capacity for what it can shed. Both my 82 Dodge Rampages have a larger radiator than Roxor. lol
I find it interesting that with my tune being a little more powerful than the stage 2 tune, it trips an engine code and puts me into partial limp mode with shitty acceleration if I go over 3150 RPMs. I would have to clear the engine code before getting my full acceleration performance back. Very intriguing I must say. It even still happens with a fresh fuel filter in place. It'll say something like: fuel pressure is higher than ecm is expecting
 

Max A.

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I push my motor and haven't found the limit yet 3850 rpm tune currently and I hit it on some hill climbs. It'll take a good bit of neglect to blow one up. keep clean fuel and filter running through it and you'll be fine for many many years. the real risk is on passenger side rollovers you get a good bit of oil in the intake and it will cause a run away risk. Always restart with a t-shirt or something ready to shove in the intake, it only takes couple seconds after it starts to runaway.
 
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