Max’s Roxor Build

[jrobz23]

Max what’s the dia on that bolt. Might be able to use some old school 57- style bolts. Not sure if the Pickups used the same setup on wider springs. It was like a funky greased inner threaded sleeve and bolt setup. The willys with the U shackles used em.

 

[Max A.]

@jrobz23 pretty sure it’s 7/8s


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[jrobz23]

Ok lemme see if I got one of the old school bolt thingies around

 

[Wlofton]

Max, maybe you can tell me what good is lockouts on the rear of a roxor? I understand the front.

 

[jrobz23]

Max, maybe you can tell me what good is lockouts on the rear of a roxor? I understand the front.

Flat towing to the trail

 

[Max A.]

Max, maybe you can tell me what good is lockouts on the rear of a roxor? I understand the front.

The Advantage (if you want to call it that) is disengaging the wheel from the driveline to prevent anything but the wheel bearings from spinning.

The only real advantage to that would be for flat towing and even then its not really helping a whole lot of anything. I’ve broken way to many hubs to suggest that anyone put locking hubs in the rear especially a little 27 spline hub.


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[AZROX]

I threw some lift shackles on on the Roxor, threw the sway bar in the trash, and slapped the wheels and tires I had from the samurai on and went out to test the thing out.

View attachment 5578

I quickly found that with the sway bar off and the extra long shackles, the front brake lines where pretty short. Without the sway bar I was super worried about over extending them at full flex.

Much to my surprise I did end up breaking both brake lines not from down travel but from up travel. The knuckles came up and hit them after a few hard flexes and full speed runs through the fields.

I started calling every parts store looking for AN brake lines. I had no luck so I drove to a generic parts store and asked to go in the back and look through their inventory till I found something that worked. I ended up with rear brake hoses to a 2003 Honda Accord and new hard lines to get rid of the AN fittings. Installed without issue and back out on the trail. View attachment 5579
I did notice the steer stop needed adjusted from the factory. It would allow the caliper to hit the shocks on the flexy trails.

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View attachment 5578 View attachment 5579

Ok. I found your post where you mention you used 2003 Acura rear brake lines. I didn't mean to mess up up the shackle threat.
I have done the add a leaf in the front. In other posts on this forum folks mention that when you add longer shocks to the add a leaf, longer brake lines are required. That is why I asked what part number your Acura brake lines are. Thanks for the help.

 

[Max A.]

[mention]AZROX [/mention] dug this out of the trash for ya. This is what I used. If I didn’t have to do an emergency fix during a trip I would have just bought the on the rox kit. You don’t save much money doing it this way. I just needed something right away so I didn’t end the trip.

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[jrobz23]

I tracked down what I htink is one of those old Willys shackle bolts. If this si what I think it is, it's only ~.675 thou.

 

[AZROX]

[mention]AZROX [/mention] dug this out of the trash for ya. This is what I used. If I didn’t have to do an emergency fix during a trip I would have just bought the on the rox kit. You don’t save much money doing it this way. I just needed something right away so I didn’t end the trip.
View attachment 6084


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Thanks. Good point on buying a Roxor specific set of brake lines. Looking again now, I found quite a few more available now than just a few months ago.

 

[Max A.]

Well guys, just got word that the County offices where I work are closed until further notice because of this virus. That means I’ll have plenty of time at home to get moving on this.

I want to revisit the conversion mount on the fixed side of the front spring. It works great but I think it can be improved. I also am going to go ahead and cut off the rear spring hangers and print out a new set that will accept the modern style leaf springs with poly bushings.


******edit******

I did not have to cut the hangers off. I figured out a way to use a similar method as I did on the front. I did move the shackle side forward a few inches. As seen in post 83


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[jrobz23]

Are the rears riveted on?

 

[Max A.]

Are the rears riveted on?

Welded.


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[Max A.]

Placed an order at Barnes 4wd for some parts to finish the rear.

I’m going to cut out the rear shackle bushing tube and replace it with a shoulder style bushing and sleeve. I could have cut some of the other parts I ordered out on the plasma table, but for the money, I might as well save myself a few hours of cad work.

And yes only 7 u bolts! You’ll see why later.

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[Max A.]

Build specs so far-

Axles: Trail-Gear rock assault axle housings. 61.75 in wide.
Gears: Yukon 5.29 / Timken bearings
Lockers Toyota FJ80 selectable electric
Axle Shafts: RCV
Hubs: Trail-Gear studless
Steering: Trail-Gear
Springs: Rubicon Express 4 inch lift YJ
Shocks: King smooth body remote res. (F)2.5 12 in travel/(R)2.0 10 in
Bump stops: (F&R) Fox factory race 2.0x2 inch travel
Wheels: Raceline Monster 15x8 3.25bs
Tires: 35x12.5r15 Maxxis Trepador Bias ply

Quickly approaching $10,000 including some massive kick ins from sponsors and scouring the internet for the best deals.

Still need:
To choose a tuner to send the ECU to
Have custom length drive shafts made
Seats/harnesses
Cage
Safety requirements
Communication
Fuel cell
Fabricate bumpers/spare tire mount
Exhaust
Intake
Lights
And I need to do something to the transfer case cross member.


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[jrobz23]

What all you got planned for the lights and tire mount?

 

[Max A.]

What all you got planned for the lights and tire mount?

Rick Cecco from https://ceccoracing.com AKA [mention]465stroker [/mention] and I will be working on developing a race ready rear end. I want to incorporate the bumper, tire carrier, and corner armor.

The lights will be simple. Adding a rear chase bar. Keeping the factory KC light bar and replacing the headlights with LEDs

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[Max A.]

Staying busy in the basement cranking out parts and filling orders.

The front spring conversion adapters have evolved. Much more beefy. So much so that they support the weight of the vehicle before adding any additional hardware. I’m feel very confident in this design. The previous was good but this is bomb proof.

Old

New

I also started working on the rear. With all of this extra time on my hands I was able to come up with a way to adapt the rear WITHOUT cutting the spring hangers off the frame. I used a very similar method as I did on the front. I’ll get pictures of that later this week.

Next I came up with a shackle that has 5/8 hole on one side and the 9/16 bolt size on the other for the yj springs. The busing tube will be frenched in towards the top of the frame rails and a 6 inch long boomerang shackle is required to allow proper travel with a spring as arched as the 4 inch YJ springs are.
There is no room for a cross brace so they have to be strong! 1/2 an inch thick strong!

Hoping to have more parts delivered by the end of the week so I can really get moving on this. I’m starting to run out of things to do. It would be great to have it sitting on all 4s next week.


PS...
If anyone local to Maryland is interested, my 33 wheels and tires are for sale, not even 100 miles on them.


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[jrobz23]

NICE! Looking forward to pics of that rear setup. Sounds neat.

 

[BDRAG]

Staying busy in the basement cranking out parts and

When the HELL did you have time to cut, debur and ship my set of shackles today? Lol. I feel I was just in the way .....

BDRAG