Max’s Roxor Build

[Max A.]

How much are those Toyota axles? Will they be offset to match the roxor axles?

The front was ordered with the proper offset. Even though I could have ordered the rear with an offset, I ordered the rear in the center because I’m sure these axles will outlast the Roxor so I can swap them into a different project in the future. Plus I can use off the self Toyota shafts which are plentiful.


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[Max A.]

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[Bhayarock]

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If possible do take a video or photos when you are installing the FJ80 differential setup in this housing. I know some people have went d60 route for wider options but this is something would.love to see.

 

[jrobz23]

Woof those are beefy

 

[Max A.]

So the front axle will be 61.75 wheel mount surface to wheel mount surface. That means it will be 75.25in wide to the outside of the tires. The Roxor body is 59 inches wide. If that’s correct, I’ll have about 8 inches of tire showing out of each side with very little offset on the wheels( only about -6mm). It’s going to steer wonderfully.


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[Max A.]

I have been playing around with a couple ideas for suspension. I do intend on keeping this build on leaf springs. While coil overs are great because you can set your anti squat and anti dive numbers exactly where you want, a well set up leaf suspension is just more reliable and maintenance free. A long travel spring under setup can take a beating without any real worry at a fraction of the cost of links and coil overs.
I will most likely go with either YJ or Toyota leaf springs up front. Shackle reversal style but instead of a shackle I may use a slider box frenched into the frame.

Sliders work well and give a more linear spring rate. It should ride great at speed through the ruff stuff especially when paired with a properly valved shock and air bump stops to control the last few inches of travel.
Both yj and yota front springs are a little more than 22 inches long in front of the center pin. I’d like to keep the front of the spring mounted high, as close to the frame as possible. This will increase the approach angle and allow me to attack taller obstacles straight on.
A spring with a deep arch causes a lot of axle movement forward and back as it cycles through the travel. As the spring compresses the wheel follows a path arched around the solid mounted side of the spring. Reversing the shackles with a arched spring will make the wheel move back towards the body. This smooths out the ride as forward pressure compresses the springs.

My biggest concern is the axles moving rearward and causing clearance issues with the tire/body as well as steering links and driveshaft yoke length. I won’t really know without trial and error. I want a maximum of 4 inches up travel and ideally 8 or more down.


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[jrobz23]

That'll be really slinky with a slider box.

I kinda remember the rear springs being close to XJ

but dont have any measurements on hand.

 

[Max A.]

That'll be really slinky with a slider box.

I kinda remember the rear springs being close to XJ

but dont have any measurements on hand.

Atlas has a spreadsheet with spring dimensions that I've always used. Saves a bunch of time running around the junk yard with a measuring tape. Atlas OEM Springs

 

[Max A.]

Still working on this thing. Not much to update yet but some things have changed direction. I think a lot of people will be very pleased with what I’ve been working on. Stay tuned.

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[Max A.]

Over the weekend I was able to get my cardboard drawing in the computer and cut out my proof of concept. I want to be able to take everything that I’m doing and offer it as a kit in the future. This makes it hard because I want to make it as basic tool friendly as possible, as in no welding.
In the coming weeks I’ll have a YJ spring conversion in development. Made for people that actually want to go out and wheel. Simply Tough, Super simple yet tough enough to take on whatever you want to throw at it. With simplicity comes lower cost, something that everyone can appreciate.
Using springs from a YJ wrangler allows for you to chose the springs that work best for you. Yj leafs are dirt cheap for a nice name brand set and come in a wide verity of lift and loads.

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[Vinny]

All that AND a bottle of Jack!!!!! Max, you`re my hero!!

 

[Max A.]

All that AND a bottle of Jack!!!!! Max, you`re my hero!!

Jack stand


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[jrobz23]

Nice dude! That's good thinkin' right there. Anything we can do to get more commodity parts bin access is a win. Better quality and cheaper.

 

[jrobz23]

Your spring centers look pretty darn close. Doesn't look like the axle will move much for/aft. Nice.

 

[Max A.]

Your spring centers look pretty darn close. Doesn't look like the axle will move much for/aft. Nice.

Had to cut a few to get it right. I won’t know until I weight the springs to see where it will actually settle. More arch are means more movement through travel. I think I’m going to want to move the spring center slightly behind at full droop so that is is slightly forward under weight. Maybe, just maybe the factory drive shaft will still work but I’m not putting any money on it.
My biggest concern is making sure the factory steering box location will be fine and just adding a drop Pittman arm will work for most. From what I’ve heard and Xj Pittman arm will work if you grind down the index spline. My new axles are high steer so I’ll be fine with a flat arm. Drop arms work for most but it adds extra leverage on the sector shaft. I’m trying to avoid that because of the abuse this particular build Is destined to receive.


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[Max A.]

I have a set of the 4 inch version of the spring pictured below. But the spring on the mock up is a rough country 2.5 spring I found in my scrap pile. The 2.5 lift spring looks like it will give a Roxor about 4 inches of lift once weighted. The 4 inch springs I planned on running may be too much height. I think the RE1430 spring will be just right, name brand, good quality, and inexpensive. The longer eye to eye will provide more travel, softer ride, and a lot more suspension articulation.
YJs are fairly identical in weight so with a long shackle at the right angle it should ride super smooth!

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[txroadkill]

What about caster and piñon angle?

 

[Max A.]

What about caster and piñon angle?

Keeping at factory spec.


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[jrobz23]

Had to cut a few to get it right. I won’t know until I weight the springs to see where it will actually settle. More arch are means more movement through travel. I think I’m going to want to move the spring center slightly behind at full droop so that is is slightly forward under weight. Maybe, just maybe the factory drive shaft will still work but I’m not putting any money on it.
My biggest concern is making sure the factory steering box location will be fine and just adding a drop Pittman arm will work for most. From what I’ve heard and Xj Pittman arm will work if you grind down the index spline. My new axles are high steer so I’ll be fine with a flat arm. Drop arms work for most but it adds extra leverage on the sector shaft. I’m trying to avoid that because of the abuse this particular build Is destined to receive.


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Yeah the steering gear in the Roxor is pretty light duty it appears. I would think you might wanna bearing brace it like the "Dodge Steering Fix".

 

[Max A.]

I wouldn’t say it’s light duty it’s actually a pretty beefy box. The sector shaft is definitely the weakest point. Unless your trying to keep up with buddies in rock bouncers hill killing you’ll be fine. The diameter is the same as a Xj and I know for a fact that I’ve ripped more boxes off the frame because the unibody or bolts bolts failed then busting the sector shaft.... It does still happen though, but for the 99% it will be fine. If anything drill and tap for hydro assist.


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