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DIY doors

P Bleskey

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Started working on my bathroom partition Roxor doors today. I measured the hood hinges and figured out that the bolt holes line up with the factory door hinge holes. Found a set of hood hinges on amazon for $35. Had a phenolic toilet partition door left on a job and it took me about 20 minutes to make the first one. The phenolic is 3/4” which is perfect. It leaves 1/4” for weatherstripping. Just need to decide on paddle latch or slam latch. Will probably paint them black but the phenolic is hard as a rock and very durable.

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Is this phenolic or HDPE? Just questioning myself, as I didn’t know phenolic was used for such applications, bathrooms. I have been looking at using HDPE. But seeing your post makes me second guess that. I believe painting phenolic would be easier than HDPE. I think workability would be the same. Thanks for sharing this, your doors look great,
 

Jeepish

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Wilmer, AL, USA
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Is this phenolic or HDPE? Just questioning myself, as I didn’t know phenolic was used for such applications, bathrooms. I have been looking at using HDPE. But seeing your post makes me second guess that. I believe painting phenolic would be easier than HDPE. I think workability would be the same. Thanks for sharing this, your doors look great,
I have used HDPE for toilet partitions also and concidered using it for the doors. There are several online sources for HDPE also and you could even provide a drawing of the size with the radius corners. Of course the price goes up when you do this..
It is rare but we do use phenolic for toilet partitions. You can cut it with a skill saw (then throw away the blade). It’s hard enough that I’ve drilled and tapped it in some applications. I ordered the latches and will update when the doors are finished.
 

Jeepish

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I have used HDPE for toilet partitions also and concidered using it for the doors. There are several online sources for HDPE also and you could even provide a drawing of the size with the radius corners. Of course the price goes up when you do this..
It is rare but we do use phenolic for toilet partitions. You can cut it with a skill saw (then throw away the blade). It’s hard enough that I’ve drilled and tapped it in some applications. I ordered the latches and will update when the doors are finished.
BTW, not to get too teqnical, but the small radius on the doors is a 1 gal paint can and the large radius is a wide brimmed hardhat. :cool:
 

P Bleskey

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I have used HDPE for toilet partitions also and concidered using it for the doors. There are several online sources for HDPE also and you could even provide a drawing of the size with the radius corners. Of course the price goes up when you do this..
It is rare but we do use phenolic for toilet partitions. You can cut it with a skill saw (then throw away the blade). It’s hard enough that I’ve drilled and tapped it in some applications. I ordered the latches and will update when the doors are finished.
Thanks for the education on this. I found a source here locally for hdpe. I think I’m going that route as it is cheaper than phenolic and has a couple other pluses. Tell me, what has your experience been with HDPE workability? I.E., cutting , sanding?
 

Jeepish

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Thanks for the education on this. I found a source here locally for hdpe. I think I’m going that route as it is cheaper than phenolic and has a couple other pluses. Tell me, what has your experience been with HDPE workability? I.E., cutting , sanding?
To me the phenolic sands out better but I see the advantage of using the HDPE. The HDPE can get stringy and melt if you get it too hot when sanding.. if you are just trying to smooth out the saw marks on the edge, a handheld planer may be a better option. HDPE is a lot more flexible than phenolic. If I would have had to purchase something, ida bought HDPE since it is cheaper but the phenolic was free so that was an easy choice.
 

P Bleskey

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To me the phenolic sands out better but I see the advantage of using the HDPE. The HDPE can get stringy and melt if you get it too hot when sanding.. if you are just trying to smooth out the saw marks on the edge, a handheld planer may be a better option. HDPE is a lot more flexible than phenolic. If I would have had to purchase something, ida bought HDPE since it is cheaper but the phenolic was free so that was an easy choice.
I appreciate the insight. It always helps to have first hand info when you are working with something new to you. I do have a small hand planer and will keep the heat issue in mind when I get to blending out the edges, slow and easy. I could go steel but the cost is about the same, then there is the paint issue. With white HDPE I can forget the paint as my rig is white.
 

Jeepish

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I appreciate the insight. It always helps to have first hand info when you are working with something new to you. I do have a small hand planer and will keep the heat issue in mind when I get to blending out the edges, slow and easy. I could go steel but the cost is about the same, then there is the paint issue. With white HDPE I can forget the paint as my rig is white.
That is definitely an advantage of the HDPE. Color is all the way through. I will say that if you use the planer to smooth out the edges, set it on “0” or as low of a setting that removes very little material. Also, don’t use planer on the radius corners. A router with a roundover bit works nicely on the edges and gives it a very finished look.
Keep us posted on how they turn out. Good luck.
 

Jeepish

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is there graffitti or gum on the inside of the door? lol! Looks awesome and top notch creativity.

95FDF4EC-BA01-4F1C-A7E2-F71AC4D2B74F.jpeg
 

Jeepish

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Got the latches in today. They are a camper style hatch latch. Not real heavy duty but they are cheap and easy enough to replace. I do like how they work though. $9.00 on Amazon. So I have around $100 invested in the doors with hinges, latches and spray paint.

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DLR

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There are a great bunch of doors being made here, thanks to all who have shared, they have been an inspiration to me. I have attached a scan of a 1/4 scale model of a door a drew up in CAD and laser cut. I put dimensions on it. Eventually, I will have a couple cut out from Starboard, figuring they would last longer than plywood, and look better too. If anyone has any comments or thoughts on the dimensions in the photo, I would be pleased to hear them, and if they are of use to any of you, that's great too. I made the door part 1/8 inch shorter than the 32 inch opening for clearance.

roxor door001.jpg
 

Jeepish

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There are a great bunch of doors being made here, thanks to all who have shared, they have been an inspiration to me. I have attached a scan of a 1/4 scale model of a door a drew up in CAD and laser cut. I put dimensions on it. Eventually, I will have a couple cut out from Starboard, figuring they would last longer than plywood, and look better too. If anyone has any comments or thoughts on the dimensions in the photo, I would be pleased to hear them, and if they are of use to any of you, that's great too. I made the door part 1/8 inch shorter than the 32 inch opening for clearance.

View attachment 2923
This will be very helpful to a lot of folks. Thank you for sharing.
 

Peder53

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Looks like you’d have to get 2 sets of CJ bottom hinges per door. I have had trouble finding the part for the body and the part for the door as a set. Also, they are expensive. I have a possible alternative though: the hood hinges apear to be the same hole spacing. You can buy a set of CJ hood hinges with all the hardware on Amazon for $35. Not sure if the bolts that come with them are the same size and thread as the body holes though.
My hinges show up today!
 

Jeepish

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My hinges show up today!
I used a 5/16” tap that I had that matched the thread on the screws sent with the hinges. Worked pretty good. I don’t know the thread though. The tap I had has been used so much that the lettering was worn off. Good luck on your doors!
 

P Bleskey

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I used a 5/16” tap that I had that matched the thread on the screws sent with the hinges. Worked pretty good. I don’t know the thread though. The tap I had has been used so much that the lettering was worn off. Good luck on your doors!
Just checked out my door hinges today myself. The existing holes are threaded for 8mm x 1.25 metric thread. Theres only a .0004 difference in size between an 8 mm x1.25 bolt and a 5/16”x 24thread bolt, so you should be close chasing the existing threads with a 5/16x24 tap and using the 5/16 bolts/ screws. I’m just going to pick up some 8mm screws as I don’t have that size tap!
 

Jeepish

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Just checked out my door hinges today myself. The existing holes are threaded for 8mm x 1.25 metric thread. Theres only a .0004 difference in size between an 8 mm x1.25 bolt and a 5/16”x 24thread bolt, so you should be close chasing the existing threads with a 5/16x24 tap and using the 5/16 bolts/ screws. I’m just going to pick up some 8mm screws as I don’t have that size tap!
10-4. I knew they were close. Good to know.
 
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