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- Jun 13, 2019
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- Prescott, AZ, USA
- Roxor Ownership
- Roxor Owner
- Roxor #
- 02776
Looks like it was parked in Chicago too long.😆😆
ooooooooooo
OFFICIAL: What did you do to your Roxor today?
- Thread starter Sasquatch
- Start date
Feel free for me to test a rear bumper for you guys! I’m ready to buy one. 😛
- Joined
- Jun 6, 2024
- Messages
- 31
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- Location
- Michigan
- Roxor Ownership
- Roxor Owner
- Roxor #
- 11955
The Flash Fab guys have been busy this week. More to come soon, and keep an eye on RoxorPartsDirect.com for many new product offerings.
RPD-NICK Who did you go with on the Hi-Lift Jack "Hood Mount", and why?
It looks like the Aluminum one Hi-Lift sells in the picture.
Looks to me like a new Roll Bar set up may be in progress. OR Roll Bar modifications. Possibly more CJ7 Windshield friendly. Just Guessing
Bob R
It looks like the Aluminum one Hi-Lift sells in the picture.
Looks to me like a new Roll Bar set up may be in progress. OR Roll Bar modifications. Possibly more CJ7 Windshield friendly. Just Guessing
Bob R
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What Did I Do Today?
Today I installed my OEM Spare Tire Carrier. I removed my Triangle Reflector which was bolted on using two of the Tire Carrier bolt holes. I reinstalled the Reflector on the Bulk Head. This round I have it bolted to a 150# Magnet stuck to the Bulk Head. Temporary or Permanent?? Not sure yet.
I also started my wiring project.
To start with I took the rear bolts out of my Fortress Top. I loosened up the front bolts, and lifted the top and installed Plastic "Wood Cutter" Wedges to hold it up. This will help me with wire loom installation, by getting the Roof up off the roll bar so that I can install Zip Ties around the roll bar securing the Wire Loom.
I next removed both Seats to have more room to work.
I have a Weather Proof Box installed on the Top Left side of the Hard Cab Rear Lower Bulk Head, on the outside, as close to the glass as possible. I am installing a 120v Single Receptacle in the weather proof box. It will be wired up 20 Amp, 12V. This receptacle is to power up my 25 Gallon Sprayer as well as my Reese Hitch Mounted Seeder. I currently use both on my Polaris wired the same way.
I removed all three of the Switch Blanks on the top row, and the Bottom Left Switch Blank. They were not the easiest thing to remove. I used Painters Tape to protect the dash. No Scratches
The Plan is to have Light Switch's on the top row. Front Light Bar, Rear SIX LED Light Bar, and Two LED Rock Lights mounted on the roll bar for interior lights. The Left switch on the bottom will be for the Windshield Wiper.
I have a Power Point constructed. It has a 4" X 4" Plastic Junction Box with bolt on Lid as the main platform. I have a Relay mounted on the top of the box to supply power to the Six Fuse, Fuse Block that is bolted to the cover. On the Bottom I have a Neutral Bar with Ten points to attach Neutral Wires. I have Two 1/2" knockout holes on each side of the box. One side has close Nipples with Bushings, the other side has Conduit Flex Clamps that will securely hold the Smurf Tube that I will use to route the wires to the Drivers side of the dash. I have the holes drilled in the dash to bolt the Power Point in place.
I also have the Six LED, Six Inch Rear Light Bar installed on the back Dovetail of the roof.
My Truck Lite 900 Turn Signal Switch was shown by USPS to be delivered today. As usual it will arrive a day later than shown. I am expecting it around Noon tomorrow. At that point I will make a determination on using the Truck Lite 900 or the Vintage Auto Garage (United Pacific Industries) Turn Signal Switch for the Turn Signals.
More to come tomorrow.
Bob R
Today I installed my OEM Spare Tire Carrier. I removed my Triangle Reflector which was bolted on using two of the Tire Carrier bolt holes. I reinstalled the Reflector on the Bulk Head. This round I have it bolted to a 150# Magnet stuck to the Bulk Head. Temporary or Permanent?? Not sure yet.
I also started my wiring project.
To start with I took the rear bolts out of my Fortress Top. I loosened up the front bolts, and lifted the top and installed Plastic "Wood Cutter" Wedges to hold it up. This will help me with wire loom installation, by getting the Roof up off the roll bar so that I can install Zip Ties around the roll bar securing the Wire Loom.
I next removed both Seats to have more room to work.
I have a Weather Proof Box installed on the Top Left side of the Hard Cab Rear Lower Bulk Head, on the outside, as close to the glass as possible. I am installing a 120v Single Receptacle in the weather proof box. It will be wired up 20 Amp, 12V. This receptacle is to power up my 25 Gallon Sprayer as well as my Reese Hitch Mounted Seeder. I currently use both on my Polaris wired the same way.
I removed all three of the Switch Blanks on the top row, and the Bottom Left Switch Blank. They were not the easiest thing to remove. I used Painters Tape to protect the dash. No Scratches
The Plan is to have Light Switch's on the top row. Front Light Bar, Rear SIX LED Light Bar, and Two LED Rock Lights mounted on the roll bar for interior lights. The Left switch on the bottom will be for the Windshield Wiper.
I have a Power Point constructed. It has a 4" X 4" Plastic Junction Box with bolt on Lid as the main platform. I have a Relay mounted on the top of the box to supply power to the Six Fuse, Fuse Block that is bolted to the cover. On the Bottom I have a Neutral Bar with Ten points to attach Neutral Wires. I have Two 1/2" knockout holes on each side of the box. One side has close Nipples with Bushings, the other side has Conduit Flex Clamps that will securely hold the Smurf Tube that I will use to route the wires to the Drivers side of the dash. I have the holes drilled in the dash to bolt the Power Point in place.
I also have the Six LED, Six Inch Rear Light Bar installed on the back Dovetail of the roof.
My Truck Lite 900 Turn Signal Switch was shown by USPS to be delivered today. As usual it will arrive a day later than shown. I am expecting it around Noon tomorrow. At that point I will make a determination on using the Truck Lite 900 or the Vintage Auto Garage (United Pacific Industries) Turn Signal Switch for the Turn Signals.
More to come tomorrow.
Bob R
I mounted the Truck Lite 900 Turn Signal Switch to the Steering Column today. I did not use the supplied Mounting Strap. Instead I used a Hose Clamp. I first wrapped a couple ply of Scotch 33+ Electrical Tape around the Steering Column so that the Switch had a good solid grip on the pipe. I attached a Ground Wire to one of the Bracket Bolts, and routed it down the Wire Loom with the other wires. Per the Instructions the switch needs to be grounded in order for the Indicator Lights to Flash. I drilled a hole in the plastic cover under the Steering Column with a Step Bit. I made the hole a nice fit for the Wire Loom Extension that I added. The Truck Lite 900 Wire Loom over the wiring was pretty short. I added enough length to run the Loom into the Dash.
I Ran the Power Wire and Ground Wire from the Battery to the Six Circuit Auxiliary Power Panel. I routed it into the Passenger Side Turn Signal Wire Loom.
I have the Power Panel almost Mounted. My last SS 10-24 screw did not have the screw driver X Slot in it. That was typical of my day today. I made Three Trips to town for Parts or Tools that I needed. I thought that I had everything that I needed on hand.
I routed the Passenger Side front Turn Signal wire to the Drivers Side in Wire Loom. Talk about a pain to zip tie it up out of the way. It was very hard for an old guy to get two hands up under the dash to attach the Zip Ties.
I also wired the Auxiliary Panel. I wired the Relay Switch off the Charger Outlet so that it was on Ignition Switch Power. I have Circuits ran for the Wiper Switch, Rear Six LED Light Bar, Interior LED "Rock Lights", Rear Bulkhead Power Receptacle, Power for the Truck Lite 900 Switch, and one spare that I did not install a Fuse in. I had a change of plans. I originally was going to mount both Rock Lights on the Roll Bar shining down. I decided to mount one under the Dash, and one on the Roll Bar shining down.
I installed the Factory Mahindra Light Bar Rocker Switch, and plugged the existing Factory Wiring into it.
I ended the day putting the Deck Belts and Drivers Side Tensioner Spring back on the Skag Cheetah ll Mower. The wife's mowing had priority over the wiring. She is back ready to go again tomorrow.
I will probably miss Church in the morning, and finish up the Wiring Project on Rocky.
Bob R
I Ran the Power Wire and Ground Wire from the Battery to the Six Circuit Auxiliary Power Panel. I routed it into the Passenger Side Turn Signal Wire Loom.
I have the Power Panel almost Mounted. My last SS 10-24 screw did not have the screw driver X Slot in it. That was typical of my day today. I made Three Trips to town for Parts or Tools that I needed. I thought that I had everything that I needed on hand.
I routed the Passenger Side front Turn Signal wire to the Drivers Side in Wire Loom. Talk about a pain to zip tie it up out of the way. It was very hard for an old guy to get two hands up under the dash to attach the Zip Ties.
I also wired the Auxiliary Panel. I wired the Relay Switch off the Charger Outlet so that it was on Ignition Switch Power. I have Circuits ran for the Wiper Switch, Rear Six LED Light Bar, Interior LED "Rock Lights", Rear Bulkhead Power Receptacle, Power for the Truck Lite 900 Switch, and one spare that I did not install a Fuse in. I had a change of plans. I originally was going to mount both Rock Lights on the Roll Bar shining down. I decided to mount one under the Dash, and one on the Roll Bar shining down.
I installed the Factory Mahindra Light Bar Rocker Switch, and plugged the existing Factory Wiring into it.
I ended the day putting the Deck Belts and Drivers Side Tensioner Spring back on the Skag Cheetah ll Mower. The wife's mowing had priority over the wiring. She is back ready to go again tomorrow.
I will probably miss Church in the morning, and finish up the Wiring Project on Rocky.
Bob R
Last edited:
4 August 2024
Back on the wiring project.
I got the Interior LED Rock Light installed on the Roll Bar. I routed the wiring around the top of the Back Roll Bar to the Drivers side corner. I installed the High Dollar Woven 1/2" Wire Loom from O'Reilly along the Back Roll Bar.
NOTE: I have the Fortress 2 Passenger Low Pro Level 2 Roof. This is the one set up for the Rear Angled Ropes, which my 2024 machine does not have. This roof has the Dovetail that angles down Nine Inches which should protect both the Light Bar, as well as the wiring.
I Drilled the Fortress Roof and installed a Gromet to route the Six Inch, Six LED Rear Light Bar wiring to the under side of the roof. I used a Yard Stick to lay out the bolt holes for the Insulated Clamps which were attached using 1/4" Stainless Steel Screws and SS Lock Nuts. I spaced the clamps at Eight Inches on centers. I routed these wires across the under side of the Roof Dovetail, then over the top of the Roll Bar, and under the roof where the gap is formed by the roll bar bracket. This wiring was also installed in 1/2" Wire Loom to the Drivers side rear Roll Bar corner.
I also installed the wiring for my Exterior Outlet mounted on the Rear Bulk Head. This wiring was also installed in 1/2" Wire Loom. I anchored the Wiring on the interior utilizing the Outlet Box drivers side bolt to secure an Insulated Clamp. I ran the wiring from the box to the Drivers side Roll Bar, and routed it up to the Corner where all Three of these Circuits met.
From the Drivers side Top Roll Bar Rear Corner the wiring for all Three Circuits was routed to the Front Drivers side Vertical Roll Bar. From that location the wiring was routed down the Drivers side Vertical Roll Bar, and ran through a Hole that I had drilled with a Step Bit in the Top Lip by the windshield. All of this wiring was covered in 3/4" Woven Wire Loom. All of the Wire Loom was secured to the Roll Bar with Zip Ties at approximately Eight Inch Intervals.
After getting the Auxiliary Power Panel secured to the back of the dash, and the Power Wires routed to the Switch Location. I powered up the Panel and used my 12V Tester to identify which Three of the Four Circuit Wires for the Switches were hot. The spare wire was wired up to the panel, but no fuse was installed. All that I did with the Switch's was to install the Neutral Wires, and the Jumper Wire for the Lighted Switch's. Tomorrow before attaching the Power and Load wiring to the Switch's I will give the wiring a good look under the dash to make sure no wires will rub or get pinched.
Monday I will finish the Switch Installation, resecure the Roof to the Roll Bars, then wire up the Truck Lite 900 Switch, which is already installed. The front Grill Lights and Fender Mounted Side Lights have all been previously installed.
I will also bolt on a couple anchor points to secure my 25 Gallon Sprayer Tank to the Bulk Head. This is the time to install the Anchor Points while the Seats are out. The Anchors came in a pack of Four. I will probably mount the other two up at the top of the Metal Bulk Head, on the outside edges. One on each side for additional Tie Points.
More to come.
Bob R
Back on the wiring project.
I got the Interior LED Rock Light installed on the Roll Bar. I routed the wiring around the top of the Back Roll Bar to the Drivers side corner. I installed the High Dollar Woven 1/2" Wire Loom from O'Reilly along the Back Roll Bar.
NOTE: I have the Fortress 2 Passenger Low Pro Level 2 Roof. This is the one set up for the Rear Angled Ropes, which my 2024 machine does not have. This roof has the Dovetail that angles down Nine Inches which should protect both the Light Bar, as well as the wiring.
I Drilled the Fortress Roof and installed a Gromet to route the Six Inch, Six LED Rear Light Bar wiring to the under side of the roof. I used a Yard Stick to lay out the bolt holes for the Insulated Clamps which were attached using 1/4" Stainless Steel Screws and SS Lock Nuts. I spaced the clamps at Eight Inches on centers. I routed these wires across the under side of the Roof Dovetail, then over the top of the Roll Bar, and under the roof where the gap is formed by the roll bar bracket. This wiring was also installed in 1/2" Wire Loom to the Drivers side rear Roll Bar corner.
I also installed the wiring for my Exterior Outlet mounted on the Rear Bulk Head. This wiring was also installed in 1/2" Wire Loom. I anchored the Wiring on the interior utilizing the Outlet Box drivers side bolt to secure an Insulated Clamp. I ran the wiring from the box to the Drivers side Roll Bar, and routed it up to the Corner where all Three of these Circuits met.
From the Drivers side Top Roll Bar Rear Corner the wiring for all Three Circuits was routed to the Front Drivers side Vertical Roll Bar. From that location the wiring was routed down the Drivers side Vertical Roll Bar, and ran through a Hole that I had drilled with a Step Bit in the Top Lip by the windshield. All of this wiring was covered in 3/4" Woven Wire Loom. All of the Wire Loom was secured to the Roll Bar with Zip Ties at approximately Eight Inch Intervals.
After getting the Auxiliary Power Panel secured to the back of the dash, and the Power Wires routed to the Switch Location. I powered up the Panel and used my 12V Tester to identify which Three of the Four Circuit Wires for the Switches were hot. The spare wire was wired up to the panel, but no fuse was installed. All that I did with the Switch's was to install the Neutral Wires, and the Jumper Wire for the Lighted Switch's. Tomorrow before attaching the Power and Load wiring to the Switch's I will give the wiring a good look under the dash to make sure no wires will rub or get pinched.
Monday I will finish the Switch Installation, resecure the Roof to the Roll Bars, then wire up the Truck Lite 900 Switch, which is already installed. The front Grill Lights and Fender Mounted Side Lights have all been previously installed.
I will also bolt on a couple anchor points to secure my 25 Gallon Sprayer Tank to the Bulk Head. This is the time to install the Anchor Points while the Seats are out. The Anchors came in a pack of Four. I will probably mount the other two up at the top of the Metal Bulk Head, on the outside edges. One on each side for additional Tie Points.
More to come.
Bob R
5 August 2024
I started the day finishing up wiring the Switches for the Wiper, Rear Light Bar, and Interior Lights. When I install a Front Light Bar, I will need to swap out the factory Mahindra switch for a new one matching the ones that I just installed. They are Both Back Lit, as well as have a Lighted Indicator showing the switch is on.
I wired up a Ground Bar under the Drivers side of the dash. I had several Neutral Wires between the Switch Neutrals, Flasher Neutral, I Grounded the Truck Lite 900 Switch to make sure that the Indicators would Light Up. I also ran the Neutrals for the Front Turn Signals back to this ground bar. Both Ground bars were connected to the Battery with a #10 Wire.
Then I got a call, and had to go in to work for Half a Day.
I Bolted the Roof back down, and resecured the Rear Bulk Head Window section, which I had loosened up to install Zip Ties around the Roll Bars.
I installed a section of 1/2" Smurf Tube "Blue Plastic Flexible Conduit" from the under hood area behind the ECU all the way to the back bumper for the Drivers Side Tail Light Wiring. I installed the wire and hooked it to the Truck Lite 900 Switch Wiring. I will hook up the wiring to the Brown Tail Light Factory Wiring tomorrow morning at the Tire Shop. My plan is to have the Back Drivers side Tire removed, and work on the wiring with Rocky on a lift. While I am doing this, I plan to have the Wheel Stops adjusted out for more travel.
I wired up the Truck Lite 900 Turn Signal Switch. The only slight issue was cutting and reconnection the wires to the Brown Brake Light Wire. Not much slack, and a little tough to get to. The cut wire is connected to the Truck Lite switch wiring. Gray with Black Stripe hooks to the Brake Switch end of the wire the Black Wire powers up the Passenger Side Rear Tail Light. I did not connect the Flasher Power to the Green Brake Switch wire as shown in the On The Rocks Instructions. Instead I ran a Power Wire from the Auxiliary Power Panel to power it up.
I finished wiring the Outlet on the Rear Bulk Head.
I also installed the Tie Points on the Bulk Head to secure my 25 Gallon Sprayer.
I checked the Lighting this evening as it got dark. The Rock Light on the Roll Bar, and the second one under the dash worked out very well.
The Rear Light Bar is going to put out about the perfect amount of light to see behind the Roxor.
The Wiper Works I will now need to replace the Wiper Blade.
I finished up cleaning Rocky out, and reinstalling the Seats.
Bob R
I started the day finishing up wiring the Switches for the Wiper, Rear Light Bar, and Interior Lights. When I install a Front Light Bar, I will need to swap out the factory Mahindra switch for a new one matching the ones that I just installed. They are Both Back Lit, as well as have a Lighted Indicator showing the switch is on.
I wired up a Ground Bar under the Drivers side of the dash. I had several Neutral Wires between the Switch Neutrals, Flasher Neutral, I Grounded the Truck Lite 900 Switch to make sure that the Indicators would Light Up. I also ran the Neutrals for the Front Turn Signals back to this ground bar. Both Ground bars were connected to the Battery with a #10 Wire.
Then I got a call, and had to go in to work for Half a Day.
I Bolted the Roof back down, and resecured the Rear Bulk Head Window section, which I had loosened up to install Zip Ties around the Roll Bars.
I installed a section of 1/2" Smurf Tube "Blue Plastic Flexible Conduit" from the under hood area behind the ECU all the way to the back bumper for the Drivers Side Tail Light Wiring. I installed the wire and hooked it to the Truck Lite 900 Switch Wiring. I will hook up the wiring to the Brown Tail Light Factory Wiring tomorrow morning at the Tire Shop. My plan is to have the Back Drivers side Tire removed, and work on the wiring with Rocky on a lift. While I am doing this, I plan to have the Wheel Stops adjusted out for more travel.
I wired up the Truck Lite 900 Turn Signal Switch. The only slight issue was cutting and reconnection the wires to the Brown Brake Light Wire. Not much slack, and a little tough to get to. The cut wire is connected to the Truck Lite switch wiring. Gray with Black Stripe hooks to the Brake Switch end of the wire the Black Wire powers up the Passenger Side Rear Tail Light. I did not connect the Flasher Power to the Green Brake Switch wire as shown in the On The Rocks Instructions. Instead I ran a Power Wire from the Auxiliary Power Panel to power it up.
I finished wiring the Outlet on the Rear Bulk Head.
I also installed the Tie Points on the Bulk Head to secure my 25 Gallon Sprayer.
I checked the Lighting this evening as it got dark. The Rock Light on the Roll Bar, and the second one under the dash worked out very well.
The Rear Light Bar is going to put out about the perfect amount of light to see behind the Roxor.
The Wiper Works
I will now need to replace the Wiper Blade.I finished up cleaning Rocky out, and reinstalling the Seats.
Bob R
08 August 2024
I picked up a couple 1/2 - 20 Lug Nuts, and installed the new Wheel on the Tire Carrier on the back of Rocky.
I purchased a new "Tire Shop Quality" Four Way Lug Wrench for Rocky. I put the Four Way behind the Passenger Seat. With luck it will stay their, and never be used.
I picked up a couple 1/2" X 5" Bolts, a couple 1/2" Nuts and a couple 1/2" Wing Nuts. The plan is to weld the two Bolts to the Tire Carrier to hold the Triangle Reflector behind the Spare Tire. Over Kill, but hopefully it will make a solid mount that will not vibrate loose.
I had a shop visit scheduled to install the Torq Locker in the rear end of Rocky. My Wrangler MOAB Oil Cooler decided to start leaking oil, so it went in the shop for repair in place of Rocky. I have Rocky rescheduled for the first of September.
Bob R
I picked up a couple 1/2 - 20 Lug Nuts, and installed the new Wheel on the Tire Carrier on the back of Rocky.
I purchased a new "Tire Shop Quality" Four Way Lug Wrench for Rocky. I put the Four Way behind the Passenger Seat. With luck it will stay their, and never be used.
I picked up a couple 1/2" X 5" Bolts, a couple 1/2" Nuts and a couple 1/2" Wing Nuts. The plan is to weld the two Bolts to the Tire Carrier to hold the Triangle Reflector behind the Spare Tire. Over Kill, but hopefully it will make a solid mount that will not vibrate loose.
I had a shop visit scheduled to install the Torq Locker in the rear end of Rocky. My Wrangler MOAB Oil Cooler decided to start leaking oil, so it went in the shop for repair in place of Rocky. I have Rocky rescheduled for the first of September.
Bob R
- Joined
- Dec 29, 2023
- Messages
- 157
- Points
- 43
- Location
- Georgia
- Roxor Ownership
- Roxor Owner
- Roxor #
- 10480
Not exactly a bolt on, but it looks good to me. EAG TJ rear bumper. I had to make an adapter for it. I picked up 16 holes in the rear frame member. If it pulls off, it's going to be ugly.
12 August 2024
I went to a local fabrication shop and had a couple bolts welded to the Tire Carrier to hold my Triangle reflector. When I got home I touched up the paint with some Black spray paint, and remounted the Tire carrier.
Bob R
I went to a local fabrication shop and had a couple bolts welded to the Tire Carrier to hold my Triangle reflector. When I got home I touched up the paint with some Black spray paint, and remounted the Tire carrier.
Bob R
13 August 2024
Today my Spare Tire arrived at Nathan's Tire Shop in Summersville Missouri.
235/85R16 10 Ply Thunderer Trac Grip M/S. The same Tire as the Four on the ground.
After getting it Mounted and Balanced, I installed the Spare Tire on the OEM Tire Carrier. I next installed and adjusted the 1/2" Stop Nuts on the Bolts holding the Triangle Reflector. After verifying everything was a fit, I drilled a hole in the Upper Bolt, and installed a Pin to stop the 1/2" Wingnut from backing completely off. Looking good so far. I will keep an eye on the lower Wingnut, and add a keeper Pin if needed. With the upper Wingnut retained, I do not need to worry about the Reflector falling off. The Reflector would be only part of the loss, I have my Dent County UTV Sticker mounted on the Reflector.
It just keeps getting better.
Bob R
Today my Spare Tire arrived at Nathan's Tire Shop in Summersville Missouri.
235/85R16 10 Ply Thunderer Trac Grip M/S. The same Tire as the Four on the ground.
After getting it Mounted and Balanced, I installed the Spare Tire on the OEM Tire Carrier. I next installed and adjusted the 1/2" Stop Nuts on the Bolts holding the Triangle Reflector. After verifying everything was a fit, I drilled a hole in the Upper Bolt, and installed a Pin to stop the 1/2" Wingnut from backing completely off. Looking good so far. I will keep an eye on the lower Wingnut, and add a keeper Pin if needed. With the upper Wingnut retained, I do not need to worry about the Reflector falling off. The Reflector would be only part of the loss, I have my Dent County UTV Sticker mounted on the Reflector.
It just keeps getting better.
Bob R
WW 22 Roxor
New member
- Joined
- Mar 11, 2024
- Messages
- 13
- Points
- 3
- Location
- Livingston tx.
- Roxor Ownership
- Roxor Owner
- Roxor #
- 09921
Nice!
You got a pic?
You got a pic?
If someone knows how to post pictures, I can send them some.
I was hoping to order the Cecco 42" Plain Front Bumper and Cecco Farm Bumper for the rear this month. My Jeep Wrangler going in the shop delayed that order for a while. Did I mention that I am not impressed with the Jeep 3.6 Oil Cooler. This Improved later model version only went 46K before leaking. This time we added a Dorman Aluminum top piece to replace the Plastic half of the cooler. I hope this is a permanent fix this time.
Bob R
I was hoping to order the Cecco 42" Plain Front Bumper and Cecco Farm Bumper for the rear this month. My Jeep Wrangler going in the shop delayed that order for a while. Did I mention that I am not impressed with the Jeep 3.6 Oil Cooler. This Improved later model version only went 46K before leaking. This time we added a Dorman Aluminum top piece to replace the Plastic half of the cooler. I hope this is a permanent fix this time.
Bob R
- Joined
- Dec 29, 2023
- Messages
- 157
- Points
- 43
- Location
- Georgia
- Roxor Ownership
- Roxor Owner
- Roxor #
- 10480
I'm not impressed with the 3.6l oil cooler either. One reason why I will not take my Gladiator to the dealer for an oil change. Over tightening is the cause for the plastic cracking. The Doorman aluminum housing is the way to go when the original breaks .
lost1wing
The dealer did not crack the second Oil Cooler. I do not let anyone else replace the filter either. I also lube the threads with a silicone grease. It is way to easy to break, to let just anyone go cranking on it. The Dorman Aluminum Top looks a lot more solid.
19 AUGUST 2024
I got Rocky in Nathan's Tire Shop and up on the lift. We adjusted the Wheel Stops. We adjusted them to just short of rubbing the leaf springs. BIG IMPROVEMENT.
I will get to check this out today. I will be back on the hunting lease doing some clean up work. I have one gate that requires a hard Left Turn to get through. Not as sharp as a week ago however. I brush hogged it last week and I can now see much better to stay off stumps in high grass now. The property owner just installed the new fence and gate, so I was not sure where the stumps were at in the tall grass.
I am a couple weeks out on the Torq Locker install. That is tentatively scheduled for the first of September. That is probably the first of September plus a week or so.
Bob R
The dealer did not crack the second Oil Cooler. I do not let anyone else replace the filter either. I also lube the threads with a silicone grease. It is way to easy to break, to let just anyone go cranking on it. The Dorman Aluminum Top looks a lot more solid.
19 AUGUST 2024
I got Rocky in Nathan's Tire Shop and up on the lift. We adjusted the Wheel Stops. We adjusted them to just short of rubbing the leaf springs. BIG IMPROVEMENT.
I will get to check this out today. I will be back on the hunting lease doing some clean up work. I have one gate that requires a hard Left Turn to get through. Not as sharp as a week ago however. I brush hogged it last week and I can now see much better to stay off stumps in high grass now. The property owner just installed the new fence and gate, so I was not sure where the stumps were at in the tall grass.
I am a couple weeks out on the Torq Locker install. That is tentatively scheduled for the first of September. That is probably the first of September plus a week or so.
Bob R
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