EGR delete done!

[Jimmyb]

Jimmyb, was you going to be able to put the pictures on the delete for those of us that are so mechanically inclined?

Yes I will post step by step instructions with pictures some time this week. Been busy at work but I’ll make time to get this done!

 

[Shortbus]

Awesome sir thank you

 

[Shortbus]

Yes sir, thank you EPA for making all these diesels in the US so choked down with smog equipment they won’t even operate. I would love to be able to do this on my 2017 super duty with the 6.7 but of course that would void my warranty on a $70,000 truck so I guess that ain’t going to happen. So if you are in the market for a diesel make sure it is 2007 or older!!!

 

[WoodLot]

JimmyB, could I purchase an additional single EGR plate from you, need it to cover a total of two sides on the EGR valve manifold elbow at intake pipe, I have aluminum tape over the open side but would like a permanent solution, please advise, Thanks!

 

[Jimmyb]

JimmyB, could I purchase an additional single EGR plate from you, need it to cover a total of two sides on the EGR valve manifold elbow at intake pipe, I have aluminum tape over the open side but would like a permanent solution, please advise, Thanks!

I’ll send you another one no charge, thanks for trying it out!

 

[WoodLot]

I’ll send you another one no charge, thanks for trying it out!

Wow thank you!! I’ll send some pics once the remaining components are removed.

 

[Jimmyb]

Wow thank you!! I’ll send some pics once the remaining components are removed.

Wait, I may have another option or two and it may turn out for the best. I went to the garage and decided I was going to pull the egr valve as far apart as I could to see how it works. All of the new diesel trucks use an electric solenoid to control the operation of the egr valve. This one is much simpler by design and is effectively a spring controlled valve and the electrical connector in the top is a plunger that monitors the position of the valve. As you increase exhaust pressure, it overcomes the spring tensions and opens the valve, decrease the pressure it closes. I hope all of this makes sense, but I’m sure pictures will help.
Disassembled, top of valve, the flex line that connected to cooler and sensor removed from the top.Bottom of the valve with the flex line disconnected.

And finally the sensor removed, if you look in the top of the valve you can see the spring. So to answer your question of what to do: A) you can remove the flex line and leave it alone because both ends are closed just the open end of the flex line doesn’t give you a warm fuzzy feeling or B) which I like best, take it apart as I did and plug the sensor back in and tie it back out of the way. As it is now, nothing is making the valve travel up and down therefore you should still be code free and not have that big ugly valve just hanging out on the intake tube! Sorry for the long post, but I’ll be more than happy to answer any questions you have about it.

 

[WoodLot]

Wait, I may have another option or two and it may turn out for the best. I went to the garage and decided I was going to pull the egr valve as far apart as I could to see how it works. All of the new diesel trucks use an electric solenoid to control the operation of the egr valve. This one is much simpler by design and is effectively a spring controlled valve and the electrical connector in the top is a plunger that monitors the position of the valve. As you increase exhaust pressure, it overcomes the spring tensions and opens the valve, decrease the pressure it closes. I hope all of this makes sense, but I’m sure pictures will help.View attachment 1760
Disassembled, top of valve, the flex line that connected to cooler and sensor removed from the top.View attachment 1761Bottom of the valve with the flex line disconnected.View attachment 1762And finally the sensor removed, if you look in the top of the valve you can see the spring. So to answer your question of what to do: A) you can remove the flex line and leave it alone because both ends are closed just the open end of the flex line doesn’t give you a warm fuzzy feeling or B) which I like best, take it apart as I did and plug the sensor back in and tie it back out of the way. As it is now, nothing is making the valve travel up and down therefore you should still be code free and not have that big ugly valve just hanging out on the intake tube! Sorry for the long post, but I’ll be more than happy to answer any questions you have about it.

Thanks and good point, I’ll take a look at it. Currently I’ve removed the flex and plated the cooler outlet but plan to pull the cooler and inlet exh elbow to clean it up. Leaving the EGR valve mounted to the intake is ok, I just didn’t want anything getting into the valve and seat giving a false position reading because it was my thinking the valve opened or is assisted with vacuum and closed under spring tension.

Right now I really want to get the cooler off because I’m not convinced the moisture I found was condensation, looked at the flex pipe today and it still looks damp inside like glycol. I’ll run the Roxor a couple more days to be sure of no codes and then pull the remainder of components will take a look at your suggestions when I get into it.

If I have questions I’ll reach out. Thanks for the thoughts and feedback.

 

[Jimmyb]

I plan on doing a little more testing tomorrow on the valve operation as well as pressure testing the cooler I thought may be leaking. I would be surprised if the vacuum assist was enough to move the valve at all, that is a pretty stiff spring holding it closed! Either way, this should be game on for everyone that wants to delete the egr whether it is tuned or stock!

 

[WoodLot]

I plan on doing a little more testing tomorrow on the valve operation as well as pressure testing the cooler I thought may be leaking. I would be surprised if the vacuum assist was enough to move the valve at all, that is a pretty stiff spring holding it closed! Either way, this should be game on for everyone that wants to delete the egr whether it is tuned or stock!

Agreed. Let us know what you find. I’m real interested in your cooler test. Thanks for all your help with this process.

 

[Rolandwanders]

Other than cleaning up the engine bay a lot and getting rid of excess heat, it will insure that you don’t have any exhaust gas entering the intake if the pressure was enough to push past the valve that is now turned off and getting rid of the chance the egr cooler fails and puts coolant into the intake. You won’t see any increase in power, think of it more as preventative maintenance as it will eliminate the chance of any of this happening.

Got it, thank you!

 

[Jimmyb]

Not the most scientific method but I capped one end of the cooler, filled it with water and put valve stem in the other end. I pressured it up to 15 psi and now it’s just a waiting game to see if the water finds it way out inside of the cooler. I’ll update in an hour because I think that should be sufficient if there is a leak.

 

[WoodLot]

Not the most scientific method but I capped one end of the cooler, filled it with water and put valve stem in the other end. I pressured it up to 15 psi and now it’s just a waiting game to see if the water finds it way out inside of the cooler. I’ll update in an hour because I think that should be sufficient if there is a leak.View attachment 1763

Great set up I was thinking of just filling and using gravity but you figured it out, thanks. I looked at the damp residue in my flex pipe again today, could be glycol or could be fuel residue, I’ll test when removed. Let us know the results of your test findings. Thx!

 

[txroadkill]

That’s no different than the way a shop would test an inter cooler except they would have a gauge on it looking for a pressure drop. Same principle

 

[Jimmyb]

Still no change, holding at about 14.5 psi. I’m sure there is a slight loss when I check it. I will check again in the morning.

 

[Jimmyb]

After 24 hours the pressure is unchanged and the cooler is dry inside, so I’m pretty sure it was condensation inside mine not a leak.

 

[Ccoombes]

Thanks!

One more thing I didn't mention, when I pulled the cooler outlet pipe it was full of water, I mean dripping out. I suppose it could have condensed by starting/stopping the RxR cool without warm-up.

The reason I mention this is I've been having the coolant level in overflow very slowly drop, haven't pressure tested the system and have no external cold leaks, did find the drain petcock weeping but it didn't stop the problem. There is no water in oil so perhaps I have a internal cooler leak, it's very small if I do. So my plan is after enough testing I'll pull the cooler, plate the manifold and we'll find out for sure if the cooler's leaking.

Has anyone noticed moisture in their cooler when removing for the delete??

Did you ever find the source of your coolant leak? Mine is showing the same symptoms as yours. The overflow level has slowly been dropping.

 

[WoodLot]

Did you ever find the source of your coolant leak? Mine is showing the same symptoms as yours. The overflow level has slowly been dropping.

No, but did finally complete the EGR delete with cooler/hose removal, have not run it other than for visual leak test.

 

[Ccoombes]

No, but did finally complete the EGR delete with cooler/hose removal, have not run it other than for visual leak test.

Thanks for the reply. I just got my ECU back from Vivid and will finish the EGR delete this weekend. Let me know how yours turns out or if you run across something else. And I'll let you know if I find the cause on mine. Thanks

 

[Doshounds]

Got mine done. No leaks and no codes. Really cleaned up the engine compartment.