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What to do when engine blows up?

Wm435

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For the ones that will keep their roxors forever with the 2.5L engine, how would we get the rebuild kit?

I push my engine very hard, and it may or may not hold for my lifetime. I want to preemptively plan and or possibly buy a engine rebuild kit if possible
 

jrobz23

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Rebuild or R&R the motor. It's other parts rn that will cause the demise of the Rox. We, here in the US, gotta make sure we have a pipeline for every part we need (emphasis on need, not want) to keep these going.
 

Wm435

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Rebuild or R&R the motor. It's other parts rn that will cause the demise of the Rox. We, here in the US, gotta make sure we have a pipeline for every part we need (emphasis on need, not want) to keep these going.
I gotten my oil analysis report back and it showed almost zero wear and tear on the engine, so I'm happy about that! I was worried, since I'm using it for it's non intended purposes

Wade said he is planning on having parts availability for the 2.5L engines with due time
 

Gabe

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For the ones that will keep their roxors forever with the 2.5L engine, how would we get the rebuild kit?

I push my engine very hard, and it may or may not hold for my lifetime. I want to preemptively plan and or possibly buy a engine rebuild kit if possible
When you say push hard, what you doing ?
 

Wm435

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When you say push hard, what you doing ?
Pedal to the metal almost always since day 1, 70mph at 3000 RPMs, stop and go traffic. All while with a maxed out hot tune that's slightly more powerful than Diesel Freak Stage 2 tune
 

Busted Knuckles

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That's called, "driving it like you stole it from Harbor Freight". Rebuild one yourself and you'll stop driving like that.

My choice with a blown engine in a Roxor would be a turbo LS 5.3L
 

Wm435

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That's called, "driving it like you stole it from Harbor Freight". Rebuild one yourself and you'll stop driving like that.

My choice with a blown engine in a Roxor would be a turbo LS 5.3L
I'm really glad my oil analysis report was showing optimal results for 40K miles of driving it like I stole it. But still nice to have a plan B for an engine rebuild one day

As soon as Wade from DF has a solution for a rebuild kit I'm buying one to keep just in case.

from personal experience, I would refrain from buying any parts from oversees as the quality control is horrid, and you can't ship it back, because the shipping cost just as much as the part. It's a genuine roll of the dice when dealing with people overseas, and the parts don't always work for the roxors
 
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Not listed online yet, but I do have all the rebuild components in stock in small quantities. On my next big order I will have everything to maintain stock. There really isn't much to these things. What I currently don't have (yet) are crankshaft, camshaft, block, head, front cover, and oil pan. Maybe I'm a little short on new connecting rod bolts but would have to check. I have made various kits, but need to get off my butt and switch them to live online. I thought ditching Facebook would give me time, but so much for that lol.

Generally an in-frame kit and a head resurface will take care of most issues I've seen. But right now I have kits that will do the whole kaboodle. Need new valve guides and tappets? Gotum. Need the install tools for those? Prototypes in hand, just need to finalize changes. Need a high pressure fuel pump but not the cam box for it, well got each of those too.

I would think DF has that stuff too just not listed yet, but I can't imagine those folks are any less busy than they've always been.... Keeping up can be challenging. Might have to give him a jingle.

Oh yea, I think I have a block heater solution that doesn't go in the hose figured out too for us northern folk. Gotta install and test. It's engine related so thought I'd spill those beans...

Anyway, between all of us supporting Roxor you won't have a problem with engine related stuff for the 2.5. Parts for the new contraption will be coming soon too from here, and DF might already have some.
 

txroadkill

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Ditched Facebook. I thought you got banned. Everyone over at the enthusiasts group have been scratching their head looking for you. If you ever get back on you‘ll have a plethora of notifications where your tagged in comments.
 

Wm435

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Not listed online yet, but I do have all the rebuild components in stock in small quantities. On my next big order I will have everything to maintain stock. There really isn't much to these things. What I currently don't have (yet) are crankshaft, camshaft, block, head, front cover, and oil pan. Maybe I'm a little short on new connecting rod bolts but would have to check. I have made various kits, but need to get off my butt and switch them to live online. I thought ditching Facebook would give me time, but so much for that lol.

Generally an in-frame kit and a head resurface will take care of most issues I've seen. But right now I have kits that will do the whole kaboodle. Need new valve guides and tappets? Gotum. Need the install tools for those? Prototypes in hand, just need to finalize changes. Need a high pressure fuel pump but not the cam box for it, well got each of those too.

I would think DF has that stuff too just not listed yet, but I can't imagine those folks are any less busy than they've always been.... Keeping up can be challenging. Might have to give him a jingle.

Oh yea, I think I have a block heater solution that doesn't go in the hose figured out too for us northern folk. Gotta install and test. It's engine related so thought I'd spill those beans...

Anyway, between all of us supporting Roxor you won't have a problem with engine related stuff for the 2.5. Parts for the new contraption will be coming soon too from here, and DF might already have some.
I may never need one, but 20 to 30 years is a long time, never know. If I'm still around, or if I hand it down to the next generation
 
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Ditched Facebook. I thought you got banned. Everyone over at the enthusiasts group have been scratching their head looking for you. If you ever get back on you‘ll have a plethora of notifications where your tagged in comments.
Some of them still found me at work, for about 10 days things were looking good on getting my 3 Roxors fixed up and ready for warm weather activities... Somebody must've given my number out.
 

Wm435

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I found out my boiling point for my shell nitrate-free coolant is 212 degrees. The highest my thermostat has ever gotten was 230 degrees, with an average of 225 degrees when on the highway. With reaching the boiling point with my coolant, would this be an issue for the long-term reliability of the motor and cooling system? If so, I might consider other coolants with a higher boiling point. The highest boiling point protection I have seen was 375 degrees fahrenheit
 

txroadkill

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I found out my boiling point for my shell nitrate-free coolant is 212 degrees. The highest my thermostat has ever gotten was 230 degrees, with an average of 225 degrees when on the highway. With reaching the boiling point with my coolant, would this be an issue for the long-term reliability of the motor and cooling system? If so, I might consider other coolants with a higher boiling point. The highest boiling point protection I have seen was 375 degrees fahrenheit
First I’d try and figure out why you’re running so hot. Mine will runs right at 188 going down the road. Sometimes at a stop it’ll climb up to about 200 but as soon as you take off again from the stop sign and get airflow and rpms up again it quickly falls back to 188. This is in 90 plus heat.
 
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I found out my boiling point for my shell nitrate-free coolant is 212 degrees. The highest my thermostat has ever gotten was 230 degrees, with an average of 225 degrees when on the highway. With reaching the boiling point with my coolant, would this be an issue for the long-term reliability of the motor and cooling system? If so, I might consider other coolants with a higher boiling point. The highest boiling point protection I have seen was 375 degrees fahrenheit
If you remove the radiator cap, you will find most coolants will boil at close to 212. It needs to be under pressure, even plain ole dihydrogen monoxide boils higher in those conditions. Think of a pressure cooker being way over 212, and if you pop the lid (or hot dadidder cap), you get an explosion due to depressurization and physics mixed with chemistry.

Yes, a higher boiling point may help reduce internal corrosion if you are in fact boiling at temp. The best way to see if you are boiling in a pressurised system (that I can think of without becoming a youtube mechanic) is actually the worst mechanical thing you can do, get the engine hotter than snot, shut it off, and listen with one of those doctor heart listening thingies. You would hear some gurgling/ burping. Maybe even some hiccuping... similar to a Turbo Encabulator. youtube has more on those...

If you see a coolant actually listed with a boiling point of 212, call the sheriffs department or 867-5309 or something because that is goofy AF, or you are running 100% coolant with no mix.
 

Wm435

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I live in the 190s all day in the city streets, I only climb up to 220s once in the highway going with traffic at 70mph. And I've only been to 230 tops a handful of times.

I'm sure the extra weight of the tires does not help, since I'm running 35s, with 5.39 gears. Plus I have a custom hot tune from Wade


Does anyone recommend a different brand then the one I'm currently running?
 
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txroadkill

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You’re good on the gear/tire ratio. My numbers were from when I was running 33s and 4.88s. Very similar rpm range to what you were running, I’m now on 35s. Need to step up my tune for extended road use though. I wouldn’t worry bout the tune. Is the radiator clean of mud/bugs for good airflow?

@dieselfreak whats your thoughts on these temps?
 
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