EGR delete done!

[DLR]

I looked over the EGR delete instructions but still not sure what to do with the coolant lines.

You can either just insert the caps between the EGR cooler and the pipes, leaving the coolant lines untouched, or you can remove everything EGR and cap the coolant lines off at the pump. I did the latter, until I installed a heater unit. Then the two lines worked great for plumbing the needed hot water. I also installed a shutoff valve so I can shut off the heat in the summer. I saved the hoses I took off the EGR, and reused them for the heater.

 

[runner]

You can either just insert the caps between the EGR cooler and the pipes, leaving the coolant lines untouched, or you can remove everything EGR and cap the coolant lines off at the pump. I did the latter, until I installed a heater unit. Then the two lines worked great for plumbing the needed hot water. I also installed a shutoff valve so I can shut off the heat in the summer. I saved the hoses I took off the EGR, and reused them for the heater.

Thanks. Before I start I want to make sure I have everything I need, what kind of plug do I need to buy? Anything else I might need before starting? I not much of a parts changer so any additional info will help a bunch.

 

[DLR]

Thanks. Before I start I want to make sure I have everything I need, what kind of plug do I need to buy? Anything else I might need before starting? I not much of a parts changer so any additional info will help a bunch.

Well, I bought a kit from JimmyB so it came with all the pieces. The plugs were really more like caps, 5/8 inch inside diameter, with hose clamps to fit. Here is a link to what looks like the right caps: Robot Check

Other than extra hardware if you damage the old socket head bolts when taking them out like I did, I can't think of anything that isn't in the instructions.

 

[runner]

I done the egr delete but it clatters when I reach 40 mph. I also put a cold air intake on it. Is this normal????

 

[Eyellgeteven]

I done the egr delete but it clatters when I reach 40 mph. I also put a cold air intake on it. Is this normal????

I think it is normal...mine is bone stock and it's made that noise from day one. There's a thread about it on here somewhere.

 

[Bhayarock]

I dont know about how speed sensor is coming into equation but in diesel internal combustion engine you need to remember =
Low rpm and high compression inside the combustion chamber makes this rattling noise, most of the common rail engines have the injectors timed to do a preinjection of fuel per cycle to reduce this rattling, however it may not be perfect. So the ecm tune governs the timing of fuel injectors and other parameters and I beleive a good tune should have the minimum clatter.
So coming to the 40 mph I can only hypothesize that somehow the ecm at that rpm and speed is trying to constrict the fuel in injectors and that may be causing this clatter.
Having said that it's nothing to worry about unless you are offended by the clatter noise.

 

[mcmacsten]

getting an egr delete. Wade a diesel freaks told me I could also remove all the vac lines and all the components that were inline with the vac line. just need to cap vac line on air filter tube and the vac line nipple that's down by the alternator. looks clean without any of the egr or vacuum lines or components

 

[secretv]

getting an egr delete. Wade a diesel freaks told me I could also remove all the vac lines and all the components that were inline with the vac line. just need to cap vac line on air filter tube and the vac line nipple that's down by the alternator. looks clean without any of the egr or vacuum lines or components

Easier than installing the stock rear seats.

 

[SteveinUT]

I found the sensor, pictures added. You can pry up the tabs on the top of the egr valve to remove the sensor from the assembly. Then you can tie the sensor plugged back in to the connector out of the way somewhere. This should fix the check engine light and keep the engine bay cleaned up without the whole valve assembly just hanging out in the way!

View attachment 3182 View attachment 3183

I know I am resurrecting an old thread, but has anyone got any input as to whether there is some long-term trials running the sensor sans the rest of the EGR valve assembly? I'd like to try it, but I don't want to destroy the complete assembly getting the sensor out only to find out this isn't going to work. Thanks!

 

[Wm435]

I know I am resurrecting an old thread, but has anyone got any input as to whether there is some long-term trials running the sensor sans the rest of the EGR valve assembly? I'd like to try it, but I don't want to destroy the complete assembly getting the sensor out only to find out this isn't going to work. Thanks!

I'd personally would delete the egr and leave the hardware there. So long as it's deleted properly from the ECU it doesn't matter if the wires are or aren't hooked up. But I'd really leave it there as is.

 

[jrobz23]

I opted very early to remove everything like the OP. 20K miles. No issues.

 

[SteveinUT]

I'm definitely going to yank the cooler and put the plates on the exhaust and intake. I just don't know if I should leave the EGR valve intact and plugged in or remove the sensor from the top of the EGR valve assembly and zip-tie it somewhere out of the way.

 

[Wm435]

I'm definitely going to yank the cooler and put the plates on the exhaust and intake. I just don't know if I should leave the EGR valve intact and plugged in or remove the sensor from the top of the EGR valve assembly and zip-tie it somewhere out of the way.

I zip tied mine

 

[SteveinUT]

I'd personally would delete the egr and leave the hardware there. So long as it's deleted properly from the ECU it doesn't matter if the wires are or aren't hooked up. But I'd really leave it there as is.

I zip tied mine

Did you leave the sensor in the assembly and zip tie the whole thing, or did you pry the sensor out of the valve assembly and zip tie it? If you did take the sensor out of the valve assembly, are you getting codes? Thanks for the help!

 

[Wm435]

Did you leave the sensor in the assembly and zip tie the whole thing, or did you pry the sensor out of the valve assembly and zip tie it? If you did take the sensor out of the valve assembly, are you getting codes? Thanks for the help!

I don't have codes because I did it correctly via the ECM and deleting it. I left only the wiring, got rid of the sensor. What year is your roxor? Just making sure you can delete it accordingly without throwing codes or going possibly into limp mode

 

[SteveinUT]

I should be good, it's an '18. It already has a Stage 2 Gilomen tune on it, and eventually that is the route I'll go, but in the meantime, I won't be spending the $ on a reflash. So, the ECM will need to remain in communication with the sensor.

 

[Wm435]

I should be good, it's an '18. It already has a Stage 2 Gilomen tune on it, and eventually that is the route I'll go, but in the meantime, I won't be spending the $ on a reflash. So, the ECM will need to remain in communication with the sensor.

You're going to have to get the ECM to the shop so they can delete the EGR

 

[SteveinUT]

I found the sensor, pictures added. You can pry up the tabs on the top of the egr valve to remove the sensor from the assembly. Then you can tie the sensor plugged back in to the connector out of the way somewhere. This should fix the check engine light and keep the engine bay cleaned up without the whole valve assembly just hanging out in the way!

View attachment 3182 View attachment 3183

At some point, yes. That isn't the question or concern I have. What I am asking is if anyone can confirm any long-term success with removing the sensor from the EGR valve (as is being discussed in the above quote attached and previously discussed in this thread). I'm just trying to figure out if I should leave the EGR sensor in the valve assembly (still in comms with the ECM) or if I should remove the sensor (still leaving it in comms with the ECM). I understand that until the ECM gets reflashed, I'll have to have the sensor, one way or another, in communication with the ECM.

 

[Wm435]

At some point, yes. That isn't the question or concern I have. What I am asking is if anyone can confirm any long-term success with removing the sensor from the EGR valve (as is being discussed in the above quote attached and previously discussed in this thread). I'm just trying to figure out if I should leave the EGR sensor in the valve assembly (still in comms with the ECM) or if I should remove the sensor (still leaving it in comms with the ECM). I understand that until the ECM gets reflashed, I'll have to have the sensor, one way or another, in communication with the ECM.

To answer your question again yes it'll be fine, only after you do the delete from the ECM. 32k miles and no issues

 

[SteveinUT]

Good news for this project. I emailed Gilomen and they confirmed the Stage 2 on my ECM would have included an EGR code delete, so I am good to go to get this done this weekend.