BDRAG, JUST CHECKIN IN....

[BDRAG]

12/23/2021 UPDATE:

Making progress now! I bought a cheap harbor freight spot welder and got the OWM replacement inner panel welded in. Welded with the mig where we could not reach with the spot welder.

Got the replacement panels fit to close out the removed shock tower area and welded them in. Did some clean up work after welding all the sheet metal.

Then cleaned up and painted the cross member and fender areas.

Got the power rack and pinion mounted mounted and re worked the steering shaft to fit the new system.

Looks like we install the front suspension and coil overs tommarra. Yeee haw. I'm excited!!!!!

BDRAG

 

[BDRAG]

First off, Merry Christmas and happy holidays to all.....

UPDATE: 12/24/2021

it's been a great learning and productive week. Today we got the front suspension bolted in along with the Wildwood brake set up and roughly adjusted the tow and camber with a tape measure. More or less got the steering wheel clocked close. We got the wheels bolted on and got the car back on the ground on all 4 tires.

WOW! I am seeing the good times down the road. My first build at 62 years old! Lolol. I have damn sure learned what to look for as far as a project car, where and what to look at.


BDRAG

 

[Max A.]

Bad ass!


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[Roxasuras]

Looking great my friend

 

[BDRAG]

Bad ass!


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Thanks Max. Means a lot coming from a very good fabricator. It's moving along.

BDRAG

 

[BDRAG]

Looking great my friend

Thank you sir. More pics coming. Lol.

BDRAG

 

[BDRAG]

12/26/2021 UPDATE:

Got started on tying the front sub frame to the cage to help reduce frame flex and twist under hard cornering. We don't have a tubing bender so all we could do is split the angles at bends and weld it up. I will go back and add gussets.

So got it fit to cabin cage. Busted holes in firewall. Had a hell of a time mating the down tube to the front frame. Finally had a great idea! Toilet paper tubes are a perfect slip fit over my 1-5/8 OD. tubing. So I snipped and trimmed the TP tube til it fit and then slid it over my bar, traced it and cut. Oh man it worked great. Lololol.

BDRAG

 

[BDRAG]

12/28/2021 UPDATE:


Man, long hard day. Got a lot done.

Started out making a panel from the past owners attempt at repairing the inner fender damage. Had some half assed attempt at bead rolled section on it. So I decided to use part of that panel to repair the hole I hacked out for the front inner fender for the frame tie in bar to the roll cage on the passenger side.

I made a paper template, then bent and formed and beat on it for 2 hours before I got a decent fit.

Then I made an extension for the sub frame bars that were two short on one bar. Well ok, I drilled a weld hole to far forward in the existing sub frame. Oops. Lol. So I cut a piece to slip inside the square tube and I added a z bend in that piece so it would be flush with the surface once welded as opposed to just but welding to the end of the square tube. Test fit it and it's now long enough to pick up my miss drilled hole.

Then I made a close out plate to rivet around the flower shaped hole we kept making bigger in the fire wall to fit the fwd tube from the roll cage to the down bar. Pop riveted in place then added my beloved tar and cork tape around the hole and covered the entire close out plate. Then added the tar cork tape on inside of the fire wall. Then I painted the inside patch. Then I added the tar cork tape around drivers side front tube.

Now since we added the fwd frame to roll cage bar, it ran right through where my nice blue electronics panel that I made 3-4 months back mounts. So I took measurements and hacked a slot in the panel. Then relocated the positive and negative power bus bars. Re installed the panel. Fit perfect.

Then I replaced all the cheap ass home Depot bolts tying in the roll cage to the chassis with all Grade 8 bolts, washers and nylock nuts before Pete welds in the sub frame connectors.

Once Pete arrived home from work we welded in the inner fender patch. Then we cleaned up the sub frames and got it ready to weld. I helped Pete
Tack in the sub frame connectors and bailed the hell out. Long but productive day.

Pete was going to weld in the sun frames and finish up welding the complete roll cage joints which have mainly just been tacked in. I'm gonna go home and eat some shrimp scampi, drink a beer and go to bed. Lolol.

BDRAG

 

[BDRAG]

12/29/2021 UPDATE :

Got a late start but got 2-1/2 hours in.

We got the motor off the storage shelf. Took some bolt measurements for bell housing to motor and tranny to bell housing. Also need bolts for engine stand fixture.

I got the inner fender patch cleaned up and painted. Also cleaned up and painted the front down bars in both fender area to fire wall. Then painted the frame connectors that Pete welded in last night.

After we unloaded my engine hoist we loaded the back of my truck with all the component boxes for all the stuff that's been bolted on so far. Filled up 3/4 of my bed. ?


BDRAG

 

[Roxasuras]

Work and progress are coming along very nicely Sir.

 

[BDRAG]

12/30/2021 UPDATE:


Got the engine on the stand. Will get the intake on tommarra. Stuck headers, crank pulley, water pump on for fit.

The build:

I am lucky that Summit Racing has one of their 3 or 4 nation wide wearhouses 45 minutes away. They have a GREAT section in their store that's a open box, scratch and dent, old removed displays section. This is where ally parts have been acquired except for the intake.

Budget Ford Racing Boss 302 motor. Sticker price $8500- I paid $5000.

Water pump sticker priced $185- I paid $35.

Crank pulley sticker price $ 125. I paid $40.

Headers sticker price $365- I paid $130.

Only thing I paid sticker price for was the Edelbrock intake. ?

BDRAG

 

[BDRAG]

01/02/2022 update:

Cold cold out today. Pete's shop was at a wonderful 60 degrees. Pete had shuffled his trucks and cars around and had the mustang on the ground off the lift.

Took 15 minutes to drop in the motor. Radiator fit perfect but the electric fan touched the water pump shaft! WTF???

Cut of shaft and then find out the water pump pulley hole pattern is wider. Read and read, ford's better idea to help mechanics tell weather a pump is for clock wise or counter clock wise rotation, what belts and bla bla bla.

So off to summit to dig in junk area again for a pulley, water pump or both. Then look for the correct headers.

Got the drive shaft into tranny on bench. Tail shaft is set up for the T 5 but looks to be about 1-2 inches long. No issue. Drive shaft shop can cure that. Won't know 100% till tranny is bolted to bell housing. All just tape measuring for now. Looks like the T5 shifter will hit right in the hole from the OEM C4 automatic that came in the car originally. That's cool.


BDRAG

 

[BDRAG]

01/05/2022 Update:

Ok, got the correct water pump, high flow, big bearings, both hole patterns for different applications.

The new pump needed the shaft cut down as did the other one with wrong pulley hole pattern. The new one also has a thicker pulley mount which ate up yet more room between the pulley and it's attach bolts and the electric fan.

So I was not happy before and now I decided to cure the problem once and for all. I did some measuring and decided to slot the radiator area in the front cowl so I can slide the radiator in from the rear and then down so I can space the top out to give more room between radiator fan and water pump pulley.

I also bought a ready made cross member for the transmission that uses the original sub frame cross member holes but the new cross member is set up to accept the T5 five speed. I had to open the tranny shock mount slots in the cross member so it would fit. No big deal. Then removed all the OEM 93 mustang donor mounts off the tranny and bolted on the new shock mount. Measured everything and it should bolt right up. It will be Saturday before we get a chance to get it on the lift to see if it all fits.

BDRAG

 

[BDRAG]

01/08/2022 Update:

Bought a T5 transmission conversion, a transmission cross member adapter, and the bolts lined up great.

Stuff in the transmission to bell housing to locate shifter hole and see how the new cross member fits. Buzzer sounds!!

The transmission mostly fits the existing hole for shifter but, the transmission contacts the floor pan before the the mount lines up with mounting holes. Misses by 1" plus. Buzzer sounds again!

So after contemplating building our own I decided we can just cut off the attach plates, mount the shock mount to tranny, mount the cross member now separated from it's attach brackets to shock mount and then just add in material to fill the gap.

So we did. We lowered the tranny to clear floor pan, snugged down the parts and measured and cut the roll bar tubing drop to take up the gap.

Tacked it all in and removed it all. Welded it up 100% and painted black. Bolted it all in and it fit great! Only took a few hours from start to finish. Screaming sounds! Lol.

BDRAG

 

[BDRAG]

01/15/2022 Update:

Not a ton done this week. Waiting on back ordered headers, got with Ford Performance to get me part numbers for my missing dipstick tube and dipstick so I can buy it. They are sending me one, "no charge"! Wow!

Dropped the driveshaft off to the driveshaft shop today to get the correct tail end to bolt up to the new John's Industries rear end housing and their new Ford 9" posi pumpkin.

Will get the fuel tank in tommarra along with the fuel pump and filter. Prolly plumb it up to engine area.

That's about it. Freaking windy and cold so sitting by the fire. Lol.

BDRAG

 

[BDRAG]

01/17/2022 UPDATE:

Not a lot done today. Finally decided where I am running the fuel supply line. Started running a practice line, old one for fit, and added threaded fasteners for the Adel clamps to tie in the fuel line. Man! There is a lot of things to clear, it's a busy area to snake a fuel line through.

Gotta clear the coil over shock and it's travel, rear end and it's travel, the E-brake shielded lines, the brake lines, the trailing arms, the upper links and all the bracing. That's not even including the spinning drive line, u joints and the transmission and then up the fire wall clearing the steering rod and joint along with clearing the headers. Lolol.

Sure am glad my buddy has a lift. Can't imagine doing all this in the driveway or on the floor. And there ares that are good at it. MAX A for one. Lolol.

Just because I like being different now and then, I bought a BMW GSA 5-6 years ago from my wife's brother who needed money for a car for his wife's daughter. He had EVERYTHING on that bike that's made for it. One thing that bike had, had because I traded it on the Roxor, it had some exhaust rock guards on the down pipe from the jugs. Look like flattened out chains. Anyway, when I rode the bike these guards would vibrate and rattle. They were held on with small clamps. So I removed them. Threw them on a shelf in the garage.

Well the other day I moved a box and they fell out. Lol. These things ain't cheap. So I dragged them over to see if I could use them in an odd place on the car. Well today I found a place for one.

I'm going to use it as a fuel line guard near the rear u joint. Lololol. The fuel line will have a braided stainless sleeve covering to keep it from any cuts or abrasions. Well it will help.

So I will be able to explain to others that I used BMW parts in my build! Hahahaaaaaa.


BDRAG

 

[BDRAG]

01/22/2022 UPDATE:

Well not a ton done. I did get the drive shaft out to the shop that rebuilds them. I had them put the correct aft end on it to match the new John's Industries rear end and their heavy duty 3rd member which has a bigger U-joint than the Ford 8" rear that was in the car.

So adding new end, new rear u-joint, new front u-joint, straighten and speed balance, clean up the outer surface of the tranny yoke and paint it black was $260.00. Ouch!

Gotta have a drive shaft so it is what it is.

I also got the gas tank located. Went ahead and clocked it 90 degrees from where I wanted it. The tank has a 2" deep area where the lines attach. I wanted that area facing aft. Well the 90 degree fuel out fitting was to close to the rear of the recess for me. Don't want a rear end collision snapping off the fuel line. So it's now on the passenger side and has more protection from a rear hit and should be safe in a side impact since it's between the rear down bars of the cage.

Got the tank mounted. Ran the fuel line under the tank and across to the driver's side where I mounted the pre fuel filter and the fuel pump. Added the bulkhead fitting where line passes fwd through the trunk pan. I added a stainless steel braided sleeve over the fuel line under the tank to combat and chafing. That same sleeve will be on the line under the car to reduce the chance of fuel line damage from road debris.

I also got my first attempt at making a shifter hole panel to close out the previous owners HACK for the shifter hole in the floor. The plate also has rivnits to secure the boot to the plate.

I may do away with the aluminum plate and fabricate one from 20ga. Steel and spot weld it in. Just have to see.

BDRAG

 

[Max A.]

Your in Texas right? Next time I’m headed through I’m going to stop by for a ride in this sucker!


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[BDRAG]

Max, if it's done FOR SURE I'll treat you to it. If it ain't done, I won't let you leave. I'll make you stay and help us finnish it. Lolol.

BDRAG

 

[BDRAG]

01/26/2022 UPDATE:

Earlier this week I dug out the oval air cleaner that was in a box of parts that came in the basket case called a 1966 mustang. Lol.

It is a sudo polished cast aluminum part. I'm not going shiny so I bead blasted it and dropped it off at my friendly platers. Had it black anodized. Picked it up yesterday and proceeded to sand off the black on the fins to make it match the valve covers.

Got the headers in. Now for the exhaust build. Still waiting on a few tubes that attach to the headers. Bought a tube kit with bends, straights, and it in 2.5" from motor and tube to go from muffler out in 3".

Got the stainless sleeving on my fuel line and ran it from tank to engine compartment.

Today gonna try and get the throttle body fuel injector on for fit of the fuel and throttle linkage.

BDRAG