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Turn Signal Install

Woodsman74881

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I used my own kit. Tied into the original tail lights. I had more problems finding a flasher with a pilot to run my grott turn signal indicator. Had about $125 in them.
 

WayOff

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I pieced together a turn signal system, using the stock tail lights top bulb (wasn't used for anything), front turn signals integrated in new LED headlights assemblies, and a 3 prong LED flasher. I tested the system by using jumpers in place of the switch, all lights worked. I installed a Grote 48072 switch and only one side worked. The problem ended up being the Dewhel CF-13 JL-02 flasher I was using. I replaced it with a CEC Industries EF33RL Flasher, and everything worked fine.
 

UrRoxOff

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I didnt want to cut holes in the grill, so did a temporary (or maybe not) work around just to get the lights up there for now. Used some simpson tie downs, or something similar, I had laying around and drilled open one of the holes a little larger to accommodate the light grommet, then used an existing hole and bold inside the fender wheel well to affix it to vehicle.
Thought Id share

20200126_134230.jpg 20200126_134245.jpg
 

plumbstraight

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georgia
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Paid the bucks and ordered a plug to play kit. All good except it was missing the wiring for the tail lights
Got hold of them directly as I ordered it through amazon. They wanted proof I bought it from them. I went back into my mail and sent them the order. You would think if you called and told them what you were missing they would get it on the way no questions. He even said they had a new person in the packing department. Oh well, will check with them tomorrow and see if it is on the way. Bummer to say the least. Other than that the system and directions are good. Hope to get it taken care of by the weekend
 

meyerld

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Paid the bucks and ordered a plug to play kit. All good except it was missing the wiring for the tail lights
Got hold of them directly as I ordered it through amazon. They wanted proof I bought it from them. I went back into my mail and sent them the order. You would think if you called and told them what you were missing they would get it on the way no questions. He even said they had a new person in the packing department. Oh well, will check with them tomorrow and see if it is on the way. Bummer to say the least. Other than that the system and directions are good. Hope to get it taken care of by the weekend
Did your kit come with a column-mounted switch?
 

secretv

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Did your kit come with a column-mounted switch?
I rolled my own as it seems ridiculously expensive for the kits. The rear tail lights have a bulb at the top that is not used by brakes, running, or parking light systems. It doesn't appear to be wired in. I spliced into the light's wiring harness on either side for the rear tail lights. Then I bought my own column switch from Amazon.

Here's your parts list.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078C55Y56/ 13.75
Amazon.com: Vehicle Safety Manufacturing 900 Black Universal Turn Signal Switch with 7-Wire Connection Harness: Automotive 37.78
25 Ft. Four-Way Trailer Wiring Connection Kit 13.99
Amazon.com: TICONN Solder Seal Wire Connectors, Heat Shrink Butt Connectors, Waterproof and Insulated Electrical Wire Terminals, Butt Splice … (100PCS): Automotive 13.75
LED Flasher around 10 bucks.

Total 89.27‬

This is essentially what you'll be getting except the parts kit might have some fancy connectors here and there. Which you can add to the cost of your project and do the same. You can also get fancier and not cannibalize a trailer harness. Green wires at the brake light switch are your 12v keyed wires. You'll only need to splice into one. I added a ground wire in the column switch to avoid having to tap and drill into the column for the ground. The gas pedal bolt grounds out to the chasis so you can just use that, or any of the other bolts that thread into the chasis. The harbor freight harness had purdy colors that made it easier for me to see which lights I was working with. You'll also need a flasher I used one of the LED compatible ones from the local auto parts store it's cheaper on amazon. I recommend you swap out the bulbs in the back with LED ones that'll add to your cost. If you don't make sure there is enough clearance for the already installed bulb. I didn't double check on my driver side one and it blew out. Glass melted the plastic on the spot where it touched the lens and made a hole in the bulb.
 

meyerld

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I rolled my own as it seems ridiculously expensive for the kits. The rear tail lights have a bulb at the top that is not used by brakes, running, or parking light systems. It doesn't appear to be wired in. I spliced into the light's wiring harness on either side for the rear tail lights. Then I bought my own column switch from Amazon.

Here's your parts list.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078C55Y56/ 13.75
Amazon.com: Vehicle Safety Manufacturing 900 Black Universal Turn Signal Switch with 7-Wire Connection Harness: Automotive 37.78
25 Ft. Four-Way Trailer Wiring Connection Kit 13.99
Amazon.com: TICONN Solder Seal Wire Connectors, Heat Shrink Butt Connectors, Waterproof and Insulated Electrical Wire Terminals, Butt Splice … (100PCS): Automotive 13.75
LED Flasher around 10 bucks.

Total 89.27‬

This is essentially what you'll be getting except the parts kit might have some fancy connectors here and there. Which you can add to the cost of your project and do the same. You can also get fancier and not cannibalize a trailer harness. Green wires at the brake light switch are your 12v keyed wires. You'll only need to splice into one. I added a ground wire in the column switch to avoid having to tap and drill into the column for the ground. The gas pedal bolt grounds out to the chasis so you can just use that, or any of the other bolts that thread into the chasis. The harbor freight harness had purdy colors that made it easier for me to see which lights I was working with. You'll also need a flasher I used one of the LED compatible ones from the local auto parts store it's cheaper on amazon. I recommend you swap out the bulbs in the back with LED ones that'll add to your cost. If you don't make sure there is enough clearance for the already installed bulb. I didn't double check on my driver side one and it blew out. Glass melted the plastic on the spot where it touched the lens and made a hole in the bulb.
Wow. Thank you so much for the time you put into this reply it will really help. You are awesome. I noticed you did use a column switch and it looks like it is a much more reasonable size than the one that comes in one of the expensive kits. I researched that one and it actually is originally intended for a semi tractor, so it is huge. I want a column mounted switch because my instinctive tendency when turning the Roxor, even though my mind knows there is no switch there now, is to go for the column. I just cannot personnally see that I would be satisifed with dash mounted turn signal switches. Since I am a big guy I drive with the seat full back and having them on the dash is unnatural and would be a pain anyway. So I really like what you did and the turn signal switch you use. Will replicate.
 

plumbstraight

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Did your kit come with a column-mounted switch?
No, dash mounted. I put it in the top left corner and the hazard just to the right. The coulumn switch would be preferred. But it is what you get used to.
 

plumbstraight

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Hey 303, good job on the turn signals I might still your ideal. I see you are from Arizona as I am and they sent me an RV plate. It seems like I remember reading in one of your post you have yours registered to run the road like a side-by-side with the motorcycle plate in our state, can you tell me how you did that?
Did your kit come with a column-mounted switch?
No, lighted.square toggles that fit the dash. I put the left right in the top left hole and the 4way next to it. Is nice they light up as they flash. Only issue is that the power lead plugs directly into the fuse box and is not switched off with the key. I will get another rocker and manually turn off the system.
 

CF59

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458
We have installed aftermarket tilt steering column and wiring for under $500, Not much more than a lot of the kits, and everything is on the column.
 

oldgreybull

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For me the XTC kit was worth every penny. Everything worked perfectly and install went quickly with two exceptions. The 4 center cutouts with rubber grommets in the firewall weren't big enough to feed the plug and wiring through - went to the larger opening by the drivers door - and the panel switch covers were a real bugger to remove - grrrr - and I read and followed all the advice from others who ran into the same problem!
To me not having to cut into the original wiring harness in several places, and the fact that the XTC wiring was shielded very well, and connections were plug and play, means everything should be very weatherproof and easy to repair if needed. The incremental cost is in my opinion insignificant.
My next project is installing the light bar which will require removing another #$%@ switch cover!
 

oldgreybull

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The freebie OEM lightbar Roxor sent me during their promotion when I bought my 2019.
I haven't looked but I think I need a harness which I'll order from Sherwood. Not sure what problems I'll run into with my windshield and soft top.
 

secretv

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Quick update. I recently added a trailer plug to Roxie the 2019 Roxor. Here are a my takeaways from my 2019.

If you get a conversion device like this and you've rolled your on lights similar to my earlier post they won't work if you tap into the wires at the tail lights.

This lead me to make a contraption similar to the one in this video. I wanted a cleaner look so I bought this to put in the engine bay. When I prototyped the device I found that I needed to add diodes to each of the signal lines feeding the relays. The cathode should go to the relay. Some of these will probably work fine, but I'm not an electrician or electrical engineer do your own calculations based on your lights power requirements.

Because I chose to put the magic box in the engine bay I chose to tap into the running lights from one of the connectors that feed the side markers. You can use something like these quick disconnects or these automotive connectors to tap into the running light/side marker signals on the passenger or driver sides. Tapping into the running lights here for the trailer "magic box" I found I didn't need to wire a signal wire from the brake light circuit. I'm not to sure why, but on the Roxor I have this circuit also gets activated when you press the brakes.

What about the original running lights? Well if you recall there is a plug for each running light. You only need to tap into one of them which means you have a plug with an active running light circuit that you can tap into and feed both lights from, however I figured while I'm making things mo' betta I wanted them to be turn signals too. After a bit of research I found this forum post, detailing how one could convert two wire LED side markers into having two functions. Using some of the previously mentioned diodes and these resistors I was able to replicate what was posted and now my side markers function as both running lights and additional turn signals.
 

Deuskid

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Great threat.

Some if it is above my level of understanding [at the moment, need to remedy that]

Just bought a 2018 and reading this forum like drinking from a firehose.

Thank you, all.
 

MTCowboy

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I simply didn't have time or patience to roll my own so I bought the XTC kit last summer and installed weekend before last finally. From what I understand I can also buy a harness that will go to a trailer plug. Everything went in well and everything seems well made except I had one oddity. My passenger side taillight stopped working I traced this down and figured out that for whatever reason the plug on the new XTC harness had the taillight prong in the wrong place. I simply cut the wire ran my own around the harness, heat shrinked, wire loom and taped up. It is working great and done over a weekend along with fender flares. One bonus, I put in LED head lights some time back with 2 suspicious looking extra wires. I split the included front turn signal wires into the head lights and now have LED rings on the head lights as well as the indicator lights from XTC. Hard to miss.
 

gbarney

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Looks good, I also used the factory upper light in the stock light wasn't being used, Omix-ADA black turn switch with flashers $34.00 Amazon, up front I used 3/4" led in the Bumper for now, CEC EF33RL for flasher, had a 2 prong flasher at first it didn't make noise, so put the CEC
call me old school but I'm used to the click click click sound when signals are on, just a little reminder they are on
where did you pick up the wires for the upper light in factory rear lights?
 
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