Turn Signal Install

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Woodsman74881

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I used my own kit. Tied into the original tail lights. I had more problems finding a flasher with a pilot to run my grott turn signal indicator. Had about $125 in them.
 
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WayOff

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I pieced together a turn signal system, using the stock tail lights top bulb (wasn't used for anything), front turn signals integrated in new LED headlights assemblies, and a 3 prong LED flasher. I tested the system by using jumpers in place of the switch, all lights worked. I installed a Grote 48072 switch and only one side worked. The problem ended up being the Dewhel CF-13 JL-02 flasher I was using. I replaced it with a CEC Industries EF33RL Flasher, and everything worked fine.
 
UrRoxOff

UrRoxOff

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I didnt want to cut holes in the grill, so did a temporary (or maybe not) work around just to get the lights up there for now. Used some simpson tie downs, or something similar, I had laying around and drilled open one of the holes a little larger to accommodate the light grommet, then used an existing hole and bold inside the fender wheel well to affix it to vehicle.
Thought Id share

20200126_134230.jpg 20200126_134245.jpg
 
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plumbstraight

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Paid the bucks and ordered a plug to play kit. All good except it was missing the wiring for the tail lights
Got hold of them directly as I ordered it through amazon. They wanted proof I bought it from them. I went back into my mail and sent them the order. You would think if you called and told them what you were missing they would get it on the way no questions. He even said they had a new person in the packing department. Oh well, will check with them tomorrow and see if it is on the way. Bummer to say the least. Other than that the system and directions are good. Hope to get it taken care of by the weekend
 
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meyerld

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Paid the bucks and ordered a plug to play kit. All good except it was missing the wiring for the tail lights
Got hold of them directly as I ordered it through amazon. They wanted proof I bought it from them. I went back into my mail and sent them the order. You would think if you called and told them what you were missing they would get it on the way no questions. He even said they had a new person in the packing department. Oh well, will check with them tomorrow and see if it is on the way. Bummer to say the least. Other than that the system and directions are good. Hope to get it taken care of by the weekend
Did your kit come with a column-mounted switch?
 
secretv

secretv

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Did your kit come with a column-mounted switch?
I rolled my own as it seems ridiculously expensive for the kits. The rear tail lights have a bulb at the top that is not used by brakes, running, or parking light systems. It doesn't appear to be wired in. I spliced into the light's wiring harness on either side for the rear tail lights. Then I bought my own column switch from Amazon.

Here's your parts list.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078C55Y56/ 13.75
Amazon.com: Vehicle Safety Manufacturing 900 Black Universal Turn Signal Switch with 7-Wire Connection Harness: Automotive 37.78
25 Ft. Four-Way Trailer Wiring Connection Kit 13.99
Amazon.com: TICONN Solder Seal Wire Connectors, Heat Shrink Butt Connectors, Waterproof and Insulated Electrical Wire Terminals, Butt Splice … (100PCS): Automotive 13.75
LED Flasher around 10 bucks.

Total 89.27‬

This is essentially what you'll be getting except the parts kit might have some fancy connectors here and there. Which you can add to the cost of your project and do the same. You can also get fancier and not cannibalize a trailer harness. Green wires at the brake light switch are your 12v keyed wires. You'll only need to splice into one. I added a ground wire in the column switch to avoid having to tap and drill into the column for the ground. The gas pedal bolt grounds out to the chasis so you can just use that, or any of the other bolts that thread into the chasis. The harbor freight harness had purdy colors that made it easier for me to see which lights I was working with. You'll also need a flasher I used one of the LED compatible ones from the local auto parts store it's cheaper on amazon. I recommend you swap out the bulbs in the back with LED ones that'll add to your cost. If you don't make sure there is enough clearance for the already installed bulb. I didn't double check on my driver side one and it blew out. Glass melted the plastic on the spot where it touched the lens and made a hole in the bulb.
 
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meyerld

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I rolled my own as it seems ridiculously expensive for the kits. The rear tail lights have a bulb at the top that is not used by brakes, running, or parking light systems. It doesn't appear to be wired in. I spliced into the light's wiring harness on either side for the rear tail lights. Then I bought my own column switch from Amazon.

Here's your parts list.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078C55Y56/ 13.75
Amazon.com: Vehicle Safety Manufacturing 900 Black Universal Turn Signal Switch with 7-Wire Connection Harness: Automotive 37.78
25 Ft. Four-Way Trailer Wiring Connection Kit 13.99
Amazon.com: TICONN Solder Seal Wire Connectors, Heat Shrink Butt Connectors, Waterproof and Insulated Electrical Wire Terminals, Butt Splice … (100PCS): Automotive 13.75
LED Flasher around 10 bucks.

Total 89.27‬

This is essentially what you'll be getting except the parts kit might have some fancy connectors here and there. Which you can add to the cost of your project and do the same. You can also get fancier and not cannibalize a trailer harness. Green wires at the brake light switch are your 12v keyed wires. You'll only need to splice into one. I added a ground wire in the column switch to avoid having to tap and drill into the column for the ground. The gas pedal bolt grounds out to the chasis so you can just use that, or any of the other bolts that thread into the chasis. The harbor freight harness had purdy colors that made it easier for me to see which lights I was working with. You'll also need a flasher I used one of the LED compatible ones from the local auto parts store it's cheaper on amazon. I recommend you swap out the bulbs in the back with LED ones that'll add to your cost. If you don't make sure there is enough clearance for the already installed bulb. I didn't double check on my driver side one and it blew out. Glass melted the plastic on the spot where it touched the lens and made a hole in the bulb.
Wow. Thank you so much for the time you put into this reply it will really help. You are awesome. I noticed you did use a column switch and it looks like it is a much more reasonable size than the one that comes in one of the expensive kits. I researched that one and it actually is originally intended for a semi tractor, so it is huge. I want a column mounted switch because my instinctive tendency when turning the Roxor, even though my mind knows there is no switch there now, is to go for the column. I just cannot personnally see that I would be satisifed with dash mounted turn signal switches. Since I am a big guy I drive with the seat full back and having them on the dash is unnatural and would be a pain anyway. So I really like what you did and the turn signal switch you use. Will replicate.
 
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plumbstraight

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Did your kit come with a column-mounted switch?
No, dash mounted. I put it in the top left corner and the hazard just to the right. The coulumn switch would be preferred. But it is what you get used to.
 
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plumbstraight

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Hey 303, good job on the turn signals I might still your ideal. I see you are from Arizona as I am and they sent me an RV plate. It seems like I remember reading in one of your post you have yours registered to run the road like a side-by-side with the motorcycle plate in our state, can you tell me how you did that?
Did your kit come with a column-mounted switch?
No, lighted.square toggles that fit the dash. I put the left right in the top left hole and the 4way next to it. Is nice they light up as they flash. Only issue is that the power lead plugs directly into the fuse box and is not switched off with the key. I will get another rocker and manually turn off the system.
 
CF59

CF59

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We have installed aftermarket tilt steering column and wiring for under $500, Not much more than a lot of the kits, and everything is on the column.
 
oldgreybull

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For me the XTC kit was worth every penny. Everything worked perfectly and install went quickly with two exceptions. The 4 center cutouts with rubber grommets in the firewall weren't big enough to feed the plug and wiring through - went to the larger opening by the drivers door - and the panel switch covers were a real bugger to remove - grrrr - and I read and followed all the advice from others who ran into the same problem!
To me not having to cut into the original wiring harness in several places, and the fact that the XTC wiring was shielded very well, and connections were plug and play, means everything should be very weatherproof and easy to repair if needed. The incremental cost is in my opinion insignificant.
My next project is installing the light bar which will require removing another #$%@ switch cover!
 
oldgreybull

oldgreybull

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The freebie OEM lightbar Roxor sent me during their promotion when I bought my 2019.
I haven't looked but I think I need a harness which I'll order from Sherwood. Not sure what problems I'll run into with my windshield and soft top.
 
Togo

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You will also need the switch. It doesn’t come with harness.
 
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