Max’s Roxor Build

[Max A.]

Update from post #75

Build specs so far-

Axles: Trail-Gear rock assault axle housings. 61.75 in wide.
Gears: Yukon 5.29 / Timken bearings
Lockers Toyota FJ80 selectable electric
Axle Shafts: RCV
Hubs: Trail-Gear studless
Steering: Front Range Offroad custom machined arms
Springs: Rubicon Express 4 inch lift YJ
Shocks: King smooth body remote res. (F)2.5 12 in travel/(R)2.0 10 in
Bump stops: (F&R) Fox factory race 2.0x2 inch travel
Wheels: Raceline Monster 15x8 3.25bs
Tires: 35x12.5r15 Maxxis Trepador Bias ply


ECU tune: Diesel Freak Custom tune with lower idle and 120hp
Rear Bumpers: Cecco Racing tube
Front bumper: Cecco Racing stubby
Doors: ON THE ROX heavy duty
Skid Plates: Cecco Racing engine skid
Front Fenders: ON THE ROX diy tube kit
Rear fenders: ON THE ROX diy armor and fender kit
Clutch: Diesel Freak
Intake: Diesel Freak connection kit


Still need:
Have custom length drive shafts made
Seats/harnesses
Cage
Safety requirements
Communication
Fuel cell
Exhaust
Lights
Transfer case cross member.
Spare Tire holder
Rear Firewall


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[Max A.]

Having a hard time coming up with a shock tower solution for this thing. There is very little room between the frame and the tire at full flex and these shocks are huge. Part of the rules say that I can not modify the inner fenders nor cut holes in the body for the shocks to pass through. This means that they must be outboarded to get the kind of travel I want/need.

There is the first attempt in the rear that did not work. I think I’m going to have to mount the shocks in front of the axle to have the room I need and still have frame available to weld the air bump cans to.

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[Vinny]

Love watching the beast evolve. Thanks for sharing Max!

 

[jrobz23]

Lookin good!

You can check out some Willys based builds for some inspiration if you run into a snag. 71- Willys era stuff has really similar setup forward of the tub.

 

[Colderweather86]

Have you considered a cantilever shock mount?

 

[BDRAG]

Having a hard time coming up with a shock tower solution for this thing. There is very little room between the frame and the tire at full flex and these shocks are huge. Part of the rules say that I can not modify the inner fenders nor cut holes in the body for the shocks to pass through. This means that they must be outboarded to get the kind of travel I want/need.

View attachment 6868


There is the first attempt in the rear that did not work. I think I’m going to have to mount the shocks in front of the axle to have the room I need and still have frame available to weld the air bump cans to.
View attachment 6869
View attachment 6870
View attachment 6871


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What coldwesther86 said, I know the old British sports cars used levers on their shocks or cantaleavr types.

Wish you lived down the street from me so I could learn more from you and share my 61 years of machine shop/ aviation interiors and structure/ road race muscle cars of yester year experience! Lol.

BDRAG

 

[Max A.]

Yes I’ve thought about it, but only for a second before slapping my self back into reality.

K.I.S.S.

I want to keep the moving parts to a minimum. I’m going to try the same set up fit flipped around in front of the axle. The axle moves backward as the spring compresses so I it may move far enough to get the clearance needed. I had the shocks valved for a 1:1 ratio and this while change that slightly but I sought it will make that big of a difference. I’ll just try to keep them as vertical as possible.


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[Max A.]

Rear Shocks are all figured out. They’ll go in front of the rear axle so the suspension articulates they will be on the side of the axle the tire moves away from. The axle mounts will be these sturdy skidded mounts to protect the shocks. I have to keep the shock bolts perpendicular to the axle to prevent bind.

The rear was the easy axle now on to the front... with a even bigger shock and wheels that steer! Fun fun...


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[BDRAG]

Rear Shocks are all figured out. They’ll go in front of the rear axle so the suspension articulates they will be on the side of the axle the tire moves away from. The axle mounts will be these sturdy skidded mounts to protect the shocks. I have to keep the shock bolts perpendicular to the axle to prevent bind.

View attachment 6881


The rear was the easy axle now on to the front... with a even bigger shock and wheels that steer! Fun fun...


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You better get them parts off the wife's kitchen counter or there may be NO COMPLETION of Maxes build! Lol.

Looking good. Hurry.........

BDRAG

 

[txroadkill]

Kitchen counter? He has a high end shop and keeps it very clean.

 

[jrobz23]

My garage is such a mess looks like a bomb went off in there.

 

[Max A.]

Ok... so fallowing the rule book I can not touch the inner fenders. So I started by cutting off the outer fender to give me more room to work. All of this is getting replaced by the OTR flat fender kit anyway, so I carefully followed their very well written directions and made my cuts.

Next was taking a ton of measurements, writing it all down, second guessing my self and measuring 2 or 3 more times and finally coming up with an idea a I thought would work.

I went down stairs to my computer and started drawing. I came up with a test fit piece that I could use to check my demotions and modify if necessary without using up too much metal.

I nailed it first try! Now I was ready to go lock myself in the basement and start designing the rest. I came up with a pretty slick design and I think it’s going to work. The size of this shock only gave me about 1/4 of play to get the right amount of up travel, basically putting the shock at the very tippy top of the fender well opening.

With the press of a button, the machine made my thoughts reality.
Then I started tacking one side together for a test fit.

I’m super happy with it. There is plenty of room for the movement of the suspension and steering. The shocks are as far out as possible giving me maximum stability and I still have room for the air bumpstops.

I have to hurry this build along. I have to have it in ready to wheel in Moab in a month and a half!


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[Max A.]

Found some nastiness while cutting off the stock shock mounts today. My roxor has something like 185 miles on it and stays out of the mud.

The way it’s welded there is no escape for moisture other then evaporation. No paint plus a mud and moisture trap... here is a look into your future.

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[Kake America]

Thanks for sharing

 

[DesertRox]

So drill a hole and spray some rust inhibitor in there?

 

[BDRAG]

So drill a hole and spray some rust inhibitor in there?

No. You cut off the shock mount and buy Max's new shock towers and install them! Lol.

I will look and see if a drain hole / spray hole is needed.

BDRAG

 

[Max A.]

No. You cut off the shock mount and buy Max's new shock towers and install them! Lol.

I will look and see if a drain hole / spray hole is needed.

BDRAG

Lol. No, I don’t think my towers would work on stock axles.


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[Chris Beyer]

Found some nastiness while cutting off the stock shock mounts today. My roxor has something like 185 miles on it and stays out of the mud.

The way it’s welded there is no escape for moisture other then evaporation. No paint plus a mud and moisture trap... here is a look into your future.
View attachment 6905


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Looks like a page out of the Ford Ranger playbook!

 

[Max A.]

One tower on... 3 to go!

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[jrobz23]

lookin good man! lookin real good