Lift options

[Haerterich]

Where did you get your tune from calibrated power?

Yes Calibratedpower.com

 

[Haerterich]

I ordered the shackles & the 6 degree shims. I'm not planning on lifting the rear. Thanks for the info. I like the way your buggy turned out.

On the shim you will need to drill the center pin hole to fit the 3/8 bolt we have.

On the shackles both end holes will need to be drilled for the stock bolts to fit. Are bolts are 16mm. Do not drill the center bolt hole. The round spacers for the third bolt need to be shortened, I cut mine down to 69mm worked great.

 

[Haerterich]

On the shim you will need to drill the center pin hole to fit the 3/8 bolt we have.

On the shackles both end holes will need to be drilled for the stock bolts to fit. Are bolts are 16mm. Do not drill the center bolt hole. The round spacers for the third bolt need to be shortened, I cut mine down to 69mm worked great.

Just measured a 6 degree at its max height 9/16, but the axle pad sits a little lower on shim. i believe you will raise the axle about 1/2 inch from leaf spring. The point i am not sure the three U-bolts will be long enouogh. If so you can switch the three to the back, and all should be good.

 

[JoeMc]

Thanks, I'll be watching to see how your son's lift works out.

 

[Haerterich]

I installed longer front brake lines. Spent a lot of time finding the right fittings but it worked out. To start out you will need longer lines when you install longer shocks. if you do the add a leaf and keep the stock shocks you are fine. Just a few measurements, the stock lines are 15 1/4 inch from the hard line to the banjo center, and the actually flex area between the crimps is 12 inch. I used three fittings and a 18 inch line, from hard line to center of banjo 20 3/4 inch, and between the crimps 15 1/4 inch. Well that was a little to long, had to twist the line to make an "s" curves so the lines will not rub on tire. That worked and i added 1 1/2 inch wheel spacers so all is well. However i delieve a 16 inch line would be better and have already ordered them for my sons Roxor, plan to lift his this week. The install is easy, first fitting goes right on the hard line and converts the male m10x1.00 thread and bubble flare to a female 3/8x 24 standard flare. Then you install the second fitting through the rigid frame mount, male 3/8x24 standard flare to a 3an male fitting. When i installed this fitting it was loose to the frame mount so i used one of the old banjo bolt crush washers to take up the extra room then the two fittings don't move around in the frame mount. the last fitting is a male 3an to the banjo bolt on the caliper, you should always use new crush washers. And last install flexible line. I bought the DOT approved lines. All in all turned out well cost just under $85, with the 16 inch lines should be about $75.

PARTS:
Crush washers, Earl's Performance, #EAR-177101ERL, $6.28 x1

Flare to 3an fitting, Russell Performance, #RUS-643961, $8.99 x1

Hard line adapter, Edelmann, #EDD-271300, $3.99 x 2

Banjo bolt fitting, Russell performance, #RUS-R4047C, $6.99 x 2

16 inch flex line, Russell performance, #RUS-656242, $14.99 x 2

18 inch flex line, Russell performance, #RUS-656042, $22.99 x 2 (this is what i used, 16 inch line should fit better)

You can get it all from SUMMIT RACING EQUIPMENT.

1 1/2 Iinch wheel spacers all four, GDSMOTU, #SPCR-0007, $69.99, Amazon.
For you guys planning on different rims, i have measured the stock rims, they have a offset of "0", So adding 1 1/2 inch wheel spacers is like a rim with -38mm offset. The point is negative offset moves the tire outward, offset is measured in mm.

 

[44Bogger]

I installed longer front brake lines. Spent a lot of time finding the right fittings but it worked out. To start out you will need longer lines when you install longer shocks. if you do the add a leaf and keep the stock shocks you are fine. Just a few measurements, the stock lines are 15 1/4 inch from the hard line to the banjo center, and the actually flex area between the crimps is 12 inch. I used three fittings and a 18 inch line, from hard line to center of banjo 20 3/4 inch, and between the crimps 15 1/4 inch. Well that was a little to long, had to twist the line to make an "s" curves so the lines will not rub on tire. That worked and i added 1 1/2 inch wheel spacers so all is well. However i delieve a 16 inch line would be better and have already ordered them for my sons Roxor, plan to lift his this week. The install is easy, first fitting goes right on the hard line and converts the male m10x1.00 thread and bubble flare to a female 3/8x 24 standard flare. Then you install the second fitting through the rigid frame mount, male 3/8x24 standard flare to a 3an male fitting. When i installed this fitting it was loose to the frame mount so i used one of the old banjo bolt crush washers to take up the extra room then the two fittings don't move around in the frame mount. the last fitting is a male 3an to the banjo bolt on the caliper, you should always use new crush washers. And last install flexible line. I bought the DOT approved lines. All in all turned out well cost just under $85, with the 16 inch lines should be about $75.

PARTS:
Crush washers, Earl's Performance, #EAR-177101ERL, $6.28 x1

Flare to 3an fitting, Russell Performance, #RUS-643961, $8.99 x1

Hard line adapter, Edelmann, #EDD-271300, $3.99 x 2

Banjo bolt fitting, Russell performance, #RUS-R4047C, $6.99 x 2

16 inch flex line, Russell performance, #RUS-656242, $14.99 x 2

18 inch flex line, Russell performance, #RUS-656042, $22.99 x 2 (this is what i used, 16 inch line should fit better)

You can get it all from SUMMIT RACING EQUIPMENT.

1 1/2 Iinch wheel spacers all four, GDSMOTU, #SPCR-0007, $69.99, Amazon.
For you guys planning on different rims, i have measured the stock rims, they have a offset of "0", So adding 1 1/2 inch wheel spacers is like a rim with -38mm offset. The point is negative offset moves the tire outward, offset is measured in mm.

View attachment 2842





View attachment 2840View attachment 2841

You sir are a gentleman and a scholar.

 

[Jeepish]

I installed longer front brake lines. Spent a lot of time finding the right fittings but it worked out. To start out you will need longer lines when you install longer shocks. if you do the add a leaf and keep the stock shocks you are fine. Just a few measurements, the stock lines are 15 1/4 inch from the hard line to the banjo center, and the actually flex area between the crimps is 12 inch. I used three fittings and a 18 inch line, from hard line to center of banjo 20 3/4 inch, and between the crimps 15 1/4 inch. Well that was a little to long, had to twist the line to make an "s" curves so the lines will not rub on tire. That worked and i added 1 1/2 inch wheel spacers so all is well. However i delieve a 16 inch line would be better and have already ordered them for my sons Roxor, plan to lift his this week. The install is easy, first fitting goes right on the hard line and converts the male m10x1.00 thread and bubble flare to a female 3/8x 24 standard flare. Then you install the second fitting through the rigid frame mount, male 3/8x24 standard flare to a 3an male fitting. When i installed this fitting it was loose to the frame mount so i used one of the old banjo bolt crush washers to take up the extra room then the two fittings don't move around in the frame mount. the last fitting is a male 3an to the banjo bolt on the caliper, you should always use new crush washers. And last install flexible line. I bought the DOT approved lines. All in all turned out well cost just under $85, with the 16 inch lines should be about $75.

PARTS:
Crush washers, Earl's Performance, #EAR-177101ERL, $6.28 x1

Flare to 3an fitting, Russell Performance, #RUS-643961, $8.99 x1

Hard line adapter, Edelmann, #EDD-271300, $3.99 x 2

Banjo bolt fitting, Russell performance, #RUS-R4047C, $6.99 x 2

16 inch flex line, Russell performance, #RUS-656242, $14.99 x 2

18 inch flex line, Russell performance, #RUS-656042, $22.99 x 2 (this is what i used, 16 inch line should fit better)

You can get it all from SUMMIT RACING EQUIPMENT.

1 1/2 Iinch wheel spacers all four, GDSMOTU, #SPCR-0007, $69.99, Amazon.
For you guys planning on different rims, i have measured the stock rims, they have a offset of "0", So adding 1 1/2 inch wheel spacers is like a rim with -38mm offset. The point is negative offset moves the tire outward, offset is measured in mm.

View attachment 2842





View attachment 2840View attachment 2841

Turned out great! Good call on the wheel spacers too. I will be picking up a set of these. I have ordered the add-a-leaf and hopefully will install this weekend.

 

[Jeepish]

G

Pro Comp 13120, $36.00 on amazon. easy install. Have not pulled trigger on shocks yet, real want Bilstein 33-230443 or 33-185606, different valving not sure witch one will be better. But to save money, Tuff country 61231 might be ok, i have ran there shocks before and liked them. Our stock front shocks have 8 inch of stroke, fully collapsed 12 1/2 inch eye to eye, fully extend 20 1/2 inch eye to eye. stock ride height for shocks was 16 1/2", right in the middle were it should be. With add a leaf the ride height for shock is 18 1/2". All three of the shocks above are around 14 to 22 inch putting ride height in the middle. I need to get the shocks so i can check axle movement to ensure the brake lines will be long enough, but with the stock shocks they are fine. If you decide to install the add a leaf let me know i can post step by step instructions, i put them on both my sons Roxor and mine. less than an hour each.

got the pro comp add a leaf in the mail today. Could you give an idea of how they go in? I’m not a mechanic but pretty good at figuring out most things. Better carpenter but since you’ve done 2, I’d rather hear your version of the easiest way to install them. Thanks for all your help.

 

[Haerterich]

G

got the pro comp add a leaf in the mail today. Could you give an idea of how they go in? I’m not a mechanic but pretty good at figuring out most things. Better carpenter but since you’ve done 2, I’d rather hear your version of the easiesjt way to install them. Thanks for all your help.

Search for the "Add a leaf springs" post I wrote a install procedure in that post. I am at work now and don't like using cell phone for this stuff otherwise I would copy/paste for you. If you don't find it I can post it here.

G

got the pro comp add a leaf in the mail today. Could you give an idea of how they go in? I’m not a mechanic but pretty good at figuring out most things. Better carpenter but since you’ve done 2, I’d rather hear your version of the easiest way to install them. Thanks for all your help.

1) Jack up front, use tall jack stands right behind the front rear leaf spring mounting point. Higher is better. Let jack down so frame is resting on stands but not all the way down.
2) Remove both tires and shocks, and lower sway bar link nut and washer. Do not need to try to remove sway bar link from stud at this point. Lower jack to allow leaf spring to relax.
3) I started on right side. Remove nuts from U-bolts, once removed you will be able to remove bottom U-bot plate from sway bar link. Then jack up the axle on the side you are working on, higher is better, i had about 3 inches between axle and leaf spring.
4) Clamp leaf spring, with a good C-clamp, about an 1-2 inch behind leaf spring center bolt. Safety first. Use a good vise grip on the top of leaf spring center bolt, the head is round, than remove the nut. Might need a punch to remove center bolt, try not to damage the threads, bolt will be reused.
5) Slowly lossen C-clamp, once lose the very bottom leaf spring will fall out. OK just so you know i tried to keep the leaf springs in the same position, front to front back to back. At this point the remaing leafs hang there due to the second one from bottom has that spring holder riveted to the rear of this leaf.
6) Pull the second leaf outward a little so you can pound this leaf toward the rear of car. As the leaf moves back the holder will become lose and the third and fourth leafs can be removed. Once the leafs are removed you will be able to the slide the second leaf toward the front of the car, get it forward so you can get a good hold on it. Now pull the leaf outward and this will open up the holder, once you have spread it enough you will be able to remove the leaf. (note: i did not reinstall this leaf, one with holder, the add a leaf is almost the same length so it replaces this one in the leaf spring pack. i also was not sure if the U-bolts would be long enough)
7) Useing one of the new center bolts of the same size, should have came with new springs, slide the lowest leaf on the bolt, head of bolt on the bottom side of leaf. than slide on the second, third, and forth. I used the bolt as locating pin. Once all removed leafs are on bolt install bolt up through the two leafs hanging on car, put a nut on it just a few threads will do. now all leafs are hanging in the right order.
8) Using C-clamp again about 1-2 inch behind center bolt, slowly tighten C-clamp and make sure the bolt can move as easily as posable. Once all leafs are compressed together remove the bolt we used as locating pin. Install the original center bolt from the top, may need punch to line up hole well enough to get bolt through, if bolt doesn't want to go in i was able to use long punch and love tap it in form the top. The second set of springs i did one bolt was a bit of a pain so i use a scrap 2x4 in between the axle and head of bolt and slowly let jack down pushing bolt in. Now i reused the bolts because the new ones are so long it would be a pain to get them in. The original bolts were longer as well but once they were installed they cut the extra off. due to these bolts being cut it can be hard to get the nut back on but i was able to reuse all four on the two sets i have installed. So tighten the nut and remove the C-clamp.
9) Lower the axle down onto the leaf spring. The center bolt has a round head the fits into the axle perch this is how the axle is located right. If the bolt does not line up perfect thats ok for now, as long as you can get the u-bolts installed through the lower plate and get all nuts on for a few threads. Just to hold axle in place so you can do the other side. Don't try to get the sway bar link on at this point, well come back for that. Ok so now the first side is back to gather well enough that you can do the same to the other side.
10) Basically do the same thing to the other side. once you get to the U-bolts you should be able to get both leaf spring center bolts into the axle perches. When you install the U-bolt lower plate slide the plate stud into the sway bar link put the U-bolt nuts on then go back to the first side remove U-bolt nuts so you can slide the plate stud into the sway bar link, put the nuts on.
11) Tighten all U-bolts, sway bar link nuts, and install shocks and tires. Once the car is back on the ground measure shock ride height, distance in between the two mounting studs. Both sets i installed gained two inches, 16 1/2 to 18 1/2. We need longer shocks now, i still have not decided witch ones to get.

Good luck, let me know if you need anything.

 

[Jeepish]

Search for the "Add a leaf springs" post I wrote a install procedure in that post. I am at work now and don't like using cell phone for this stuff otherwise I would copy/paste for you. If you don't find it I can post it here.




1) Jack up front, use tall jack stands right behind the front rear leaf spring mounting point. Higher is better. Let jack down so frame is resting on stands but not all the way down.
2) Remove both tires and shocks, and lower sway bar link nut and washer. Do not need to try to remove sway bar link from stud at this point. Lower jack to allow leaf spring to relax.
3) I started on right side. Remove nuts from U-bolts, once removed you will be able to remove bottom U-bot plate from sway bar link. Then jack up the axle on the side you are working on, higher is better, i had about 3 inches between axle and leaf spring.
4) Clamp leaf spring, with a good C-clamp, about an 1-2 inch behind leaf spring center bolt. Safety first. Use a good vise grip on the top of leaf spring center bolt, the head is round, than remove the nut. Might need a punch to remove center bolt, try not to damage the threads, bolt will be reused.
5) Slowly lossen C-clamp, once lose the very bottom leaf spring will fall out. OK just so you know i tried to keep the leaf springs in the same position, front to front back to back. At this point the remaing leafs hang there due to the second one from bottom has that spring holder riveted to the rear of this leaf.
6) Pull the second leaf outward a little so you can pound this leaf toward the rear of car. As the leaf moves back the holder will become lose and the third and fourth leafs can be removed. Once the leafs are removed you will be able to the slide the second leaf toward the front of the car, get it forward so you can get a good hold on it. Now pull the leaf outward and this will open up the holder, once you have spread it enough you will be able to remove the leaf. (note: i did not reinstall this leaf, one with holder, the add a leaf is almost the same length so it replaces this one in the leaf spring pack. i also was not sure if the U-bolts would be long enough)
7) Useing one of the new center bolts of the same size, should have came with new springs, slide the lowest leaf on the bolt, head of bolt on the bottom side of leaf. than slide on the second, third, and forth. I used the bolt as locating pin. Once all removed leafs are on bolt install bolt up through the two leafs hanging on car, put a nut on it just a few threads will do. now all leafs are hanging in the right order.
8) Using C-clamp again about 1-2 inch behind center bolt, slowly tighten C-clamp and make sure the bolt can move as easily as posable. Once all leafs are compressed together remove the bolt we used as locating pin. Install the original center bolt from the top, may need punch to line up hole well enough to get bolt through, if bolt doesn't want to go in i was able to use long punch and love tap it in form the top. The second set of springs i did one bolt was a bit of a pain so i use a scrap 2x4 in between the axle and head of bolt and slowly let jack down pushing bolt in. Now i reused the bolts because the new ones are so long it would be a pain to get them in. The original bolts were longer as well but once they were installed they cut the extra off. due to these bolts being cut it can be hard to get the nut back on but i was able to reuse all four on the two sets i have installed. So tighten the nut and remove the C-clamp.
9) Lower the axle down onto the leaf spring. The center bolt has a round head the fits into the axle perch this is how the axle is located right. If the bolt does not line up perfect thats ok for now, as long as you can get the u-bolts installed through the lower plate and get all nuts on for a few threads. Just to hold axle in place so you can do the other side. Don't try to get the sway bar link on at this point, well come back for that. Ok so now the first side is back to gather well enough that you can do the same to the other side.
10) Basically do the same thing to the other side. once you get to the U-bolts you should be able to get both leaf spring center bolts into the axle perches. When you install the U-bolt lower plate slide the plate stud into the sway bar link put the U-bolt nuts on then go back to the first side remove U-bolt nuts so you can slide the plate stud into the sway bar link, put the nuts on.
11) Tighten all U-bolts, sway bar link nuts, and install shocks and tires. Once the car is back on the ground measure shock ride height, distance in between the two mounting studs. Both sets i installed gained two inches, 16 1/2 to 18 1/2. We need longer shocks now, i still have not decided witch ones to get.

Good luck, let me know if you need anything.

Got it. Thanks so much. Good detailed instructions. Going to install on Friday. I’ll let you know how goes it.

 

[Jeepish]

Search for the "Add a leaf springs" post I wrote a install procedure in that post. I am at work now and don't like using cell phone for this stuff otherwise I would copy/paste for you. If you don't find it I can post it here.




1) Jack up front, use tall jack stands right behind the front rear leaf spring mounting point. Higher is better. Let jack down so frame is resting on stands but not all the way down.
2) Remove both tires and shocks, and lower sway bar link nut and washer. Do not need to try to remove sway bar link from stud at this point. Lower jack to allow leaf spring to relax.
3) I started on right side. Remove nuts from U-bolts, once removed you will be able to remove bottom U-bot plate from sway bar link. Then jack up the axle on the side you are working on, higher is better, i had about 3 inches between axle and leaf spring.
4) Clamp leaf spring, with a good C-clamp, about an 1-2 inch behind leaf spring center bolt. Safety first. Use a good vise grip on the top of leaf spring center bolt, the head is round, than remove the nut. Might need a punch to remove center bolt, try not to damage the threads, bolt will be reused.
5) Slowly lossen C-clamp, once lose the very bottom leaf spring will fall out. OK just so you know i tried to keep the leaf springs in the same position, front to front back to back. At this point the remaing leafs hang there due to the second one from bottom has that spring holder riveted to the rear of this leaf.
6) Pull the second leaf outward a little so you can pound this leaf toward the rear of car. As the leaf moves back the holder will become lose and the third and fourth leafs can be removed. Once the leafs are removed you will be able to the slide the second leaf toward the front of the car, get it forward so you can get a good hold on it. Now pull the leaf outward and this will open up the holder, once you have spread it enough you will be able to remove the leaf. (note: i did not reinstall this leaf, one with holder, the add a leaf is almost the same length so it replaces this one in the leaf spring pack. i also was not sure if the U-bolts would be long enough)
7) Useing one of the new center bolts of the same size, should have came with new springs, slide the lowest leaf on the bolt, head of bolt on the bottom side of leaf. than slide on the second, third, and forth. I used the bolt as locating pin. Once all removed leafs are on bolt install bolt up through the two leafs hanging on car, put a nut on it just a few threads will do. now all leafs are hanging in the right order.
8) Using C-clamp again about 1-2 inch behind center bolt, slowly tighten C-clamp and make sure the bolt can move as easily as posable. Once all leafs are compressed together remove the bolt we used as locating pin. Install the original center bolt from the top, may need punch to line up hole well enough to get bolt through, if bolt doesn't want to go in i was able to use long punch and love tap it in form the top. The second set of springs i did one bolt was a bit of a pain so i use a scrap 2x4 in between the axle and head of bolt and slowly let jack down pushing bolt in. Now i reused the bolts because the new ones are so long it would be a pain to get them in. The original bolts were longer as well but once they were installed they cut the extra off. due to these bolts being cut it can be hard to get the nut back on but i was able to reuse all four on the two sets i have installed. So tighten the nut and remove the C-clamp.
9) Lower the axle down onto the leaf spring. The center bolt has a round head the fits into the axle perch this is how the axle is located right. If the bolt does not line up perfect thats ok for now, as long as you can get the u-bolts installed through the lower plate and get all nuts on for a few threads. Just to hold axle in place so you can do the other side. Don't try to get the sway bar link on at this point, well come back for that. Ok so now the first side is back to gather well enough that you can do the same to the other side.
10) Basically do the same thing to the other side. once you get to the U-bolts you should be able to get both leaf spring center bolts into the axle perches. When you install the U-bolt lower plate slide the plate stud into the sway bar link put the U-bolt nuts on then go back to the first side remove U-bolt nuts so you can slide the plate stud into the sway bar link, put the nuts on.
11) Tighten all U-bolts, sway bar link nuts, and install shocks and tires. Once the car is back on the ground measure shock ride height, distance in between the two mounting studs. Both sets i installed gained two inches, 16 1/2 to 18 1/2. We need longer shocks now, i still have not decided witch ones to get.

Good luck, let me know if you need anything.

Got it. Thanks so much. Good detailed instructions. Going to install on Friday. I’ll let you know how goes it.

 

[JoeMc]

I put the shackles on the front today. It's now about 3/4" higher in the back. I don't know if I'm going to put the add a leaf in or

 

[Jeepish]

I put the shackles on the front today. It's now about 3/4" higher in the back. I don't know if I'm going to put the add a leaf in or View attachment 2881View attachment 2882

Looks good. I like it a little higher in the back in case you want to haul a load or pull a trailer.

 

[Jeepish]

Search for the "Add a leaf springs" post I wrote a install procedure in that post. I am at work now and don't like using cell phone for this stuff otherwise I would copy/paste for you. If you don't find it I can post it here.




1) Jack up front, use tall jack stands right behind the front rear leaf spring mounting point. Higher is better. Let jack down so frame is resting on stands but not all the way down.
2) Remove both tires and shocks, and lower sway bar link nut and washer. Do not need to try to remove sway bar link from stud at this point. Lower jack to allow leaf spring to relax.
3) I started on right side. Remove nuts from U-bolts, once removed you will be able to remove bottom U-bot plate from sway bar link. Then jack up the axle on the side you are working on, higher is better, i had about 3 inches between axle and leaf spring.
4) Clamp leaf spring, with a good C-clamp, about an 1-2 inch behind leaf spring center bolt. Safety first. Use a good vise grip on the top of leaf spring center bolt, the head is round, than remove the nut. Might need a punch to remove center bolt, try not to damage the threads, bolt will be reused.
5) Slowly lossen C-clamp, once lose the very bottom leaf spring will fall out. OK just so you know i tried to keep the leaf springs in the same position, front to front back to back. At this point the remaing leafs hang there due to the second one from bottom has that spring holder riveted to the rear of this leaf.
6) Pull the second leaf outward a little so you can pound this leaf toward the rear of car. As the leaf moves back the holder will become lose and the third and fourth leafs can be removed. Once the leafs are removed you will be able to the slide the second leaf toward the front of the car, get it forward so you can get a good hold on it. Now pull the leaf outward and this will open up the holder, once you have spread it enough you will be able to remove the leaf. (note: i did not reinstall this leaf, one with holder, the add a leaf is almost the same length so it replaces this one in the leaf spring pack. i also was not sure if the U-bolts would be long enough)
7) Useing one of the new center bolts of the same size, should have came with new springs, slide the lowest leaf on the bolt, head of bolt on the bottom side of leaf. than slide on the second, third, and forth. I used the bolt as locating pin. Once all removed leafs are on bolt install bolt up through the two leafs hanging on car, put a nut on it just a few threads will do. now all leafs are hanging in the right order.
8) Using C-clamp again about 1-2 inch behind center bolt, slowly tighten C-clamp and make sure the bolt can move as easily as posable. Once all leafs are compressed together remove the bolt we used as locating pin. Install the original center bolt from the top, may need punch to line up hole well enough to get bolt through, if bolt doesn't want to go in i was able to use long punch and love tap it in form the top. The second set of springs i did one bolt was a bit of a pain so i use a scrap 2x4 in between the axle and head of bolt and slowly let jack down pushing bolt in. Now i reused the bolts because the new ones are so long it would be a pain to get them in. The original bolts were longer as well but once they were installed they cut the extra off. due to these bolts being cut it can be hard to get the nut back on but i was able to reuse all four on the two sets i have installed. So tighten the nut and remove the C-clamp.
9) Lower the axle down onto the leaf spring. The center bolt has a round head the fits into the axle perch this is how the axle is located right. If the bolt does not line up perfect thats ok for now, as long as you can get the u-bolts installed through the lower plate and get all nuts on for a few threads. Just to hold axle in place so you can do the other side. Don't try to get the sway bar link on at this point, well come back for that. Ok so now the first side is back to gather well enough that you can do the same to the other side.
10) Basically do the same thing to the other side. once you get to the U-bolts you should be able to get both leaf spring center bolts into the axle perches. When you install the U-bolt lower plate slide the plate stud into the sway bar link put the U-bolt nuts on then go back to the first side remove U-bolt nuts so you can slide the plate stud into the sway bar link, put the nuts on.
11) Tighten all U-bolts, sway bar link nuts, and install shocks and tires. Once the car is back on the ground measure shock ride height, distance in between the two mounting studs. Both sets i installed gained two inches, 16 1/2 to 18 1/2. We need longer shocks now, i still have not decided witch ones to get.

Good luck, let me know if you need anything.

Installed the pro comp add-a leaf today. Also went ahead and installed the 1 1/2” wheel spacers and some CJ7 fender flares. I am really happy with the way it sits and rides now. The add a leaf and spacers took me about an hour and a half. Fender flares were much more of a chore.. thanks again for your detailed instructions. They were a real big help.

 

[Haerterich]

Looks good. I like it a little higher in the back in case you want to haul a load or pull a trailer.

I checked how much drop i get in the rear, put a little over 400 pounds in the back and the digital level changed .8 degrees. I was surprised, thought i would see a lot more drop. I was worried that my Roxor was to level and would look bad with some weight in the back.

Plan to add the wheel flares as well. What made them a pain to install?

 

[Jeepish]

I checked how much drop i get in the rear, put a little over 400 pounds in the back and the digital level changed .8 degrees. I was surprised, thought i would see a lot more drop. I was worried that my Roxor was to level and would look bad with some weight in the back.

Plan to add the wheel flares as well. What made them a pain to install?

The flares come with screws and plastic nuts. The holes you have to drill are on the outside face of the fenders and just underneath the actual fender flares. This leaves very little room to mark the holes. You have to bend the flares a good bit to get them to take the exact shape of the fenders on the Roxor. So trying to hold the flares to the exact shape you need and mark the holes in a space that is under the flare and maybe 1” in almost impossible.

I used a couple a vise grips to clamp the flares to the fender Whalen I got them where I wanted. (Highly recommend) then cut a sharpened pencil about an inch long to mark the holes. Much better... also, adding to my difficulty I did have a 3 year old tugging at my shirt tail while I was installing these so that could have had something to do with it. Ha!

Here are the flares I bought:

Rugged Ridge 11601.01 Factory Style Fender Flare Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001FAI9PM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_9MzvCb7W73XCC

 

[tmichelena]

I am planning on doing a front 1.25 inch Warrior shackle kit (similar to the daystar) and a rear 0.50 inch Warrior shackle kit on Saturday. To the experts that wrote on this forum, do you think this will be successful? I am not planning on raising anymore than this but am concerned on pinion and caster angles and all the other geometry listed above. I'd appreciate any input!

Thanks,
Tom

 

[Haerterich]

I am planning on doing a front 1.25 inch Warrior shackle kit (similar to the daystar) and a rear 0.50 inch Warrior shackle kit on Saturday. To the experts that wrote on this forum, do you think this will be successful? I am not planning on raising anymore than this but am concerned on pinion and caster angles and all the other geometry listed above. I'd appreciate any input!

Thanks,
Tom

Your toy do to it what you want, however i will give my thoughts. First in the front if you mean a lift of 1.25 inch this will require a shackel kit that is 2.5 inch longer, you only get 50% of the added length. The stock front shackles are 2.75 inch so you need 5.25 inch shackles. This is part of the lift my son and i did to are Roxor's. So i can tell you, you will need 6 degree shims to get axle back where it should be. And three of the front U-bolts will not be quite long enough with the added shim. So when it comes down to cost and easy of install the "ADD a LEAF" would be better. When we lifted are's we did the add a leaf first and it rode better then stock. Now in the rear, again if you mean a total lift of .5 inch you need a shackle kit that is 4.25 inch, stock rear is 3.25 inch. Stock YJ's are 4 inch if i remember right anyway i have not seen a shackle kit at 4.25 inch. My point if you went with 4 inch on the rear you should be able to get away with no degree shim in the back, might be a little hard on the U-joints but i would try it. All in all for what you want go with the "ADD a LEAF" in front and the 4 inch shackle for the rear it will sit nice, cost less, ride better, and with some wheel spacers you should be able to fit 32-33 inch tall tires.

Not the picture i was looking for but the orange one has the "ADD a LEAF" and 5.25 shackes front and rear, the gray has the "ADD a LEAF" only.

 

[M151]

View attachment 2883View attachment 2884View attachment 2885

Installed the pro comp add-a leaf today. Also went ahead and installed the 1 1/2” wheel spacers and some CJ7 fender flares. I am really happy with the way it sits and rides now. The add a leaf and spacers took me about an hour and a half. Fender flares were much more of a chore.. thanks again for your detailed instructions. They were a real big help.

Just so I am clear did you have to change your shocks as well? How much lift did you gain with the (add a leaf)?

 

[Jeepish]

I took a little different approach to the shackle lift... after I installed the add leaf in the front, the machine still wasn’t quite as level as I’d like and I got to thinking. Since the rear shackles are longer than the front by about 1/2” I swapped the front and rear shackles. Lost 1/2” in the rear and gained 1/2” in the front. 1” of leveling effect overall. Worked great!