Lift options

[dmhbc]

Lifted Roxor with beadlocks

 

[Jeepish]

Has anyone considered/ tried using longer shackles to level the front end? There a lot of CJ options for less than $100. Rough country sells 1 3/4” lift “boomerang” shackles for $59.

 

[jrobz23]

OTR get's the front level with a shackle.

 

[44Bogger]

Has anyone considered/ tried using longer shackles to level the front end? There a lot of CJ options for less than $100. Rough country sells 1 3/4” lift “boomerang” shackles for $59.

I used these.

New Jeep Wrangler Yj 87-95 1" Heavy Duty Front Shackle Pair X 18265.13 | eBay

Of course like anything else in production they will have to be modified but it wasn't difficult. First thing you do it get a drill bit for the factory bolts. I can't remember exactly what it was and I borrowed a bit and have returned it. It was slightly over 5/8" I do remember that. You can pull a bolt loosening one, jacking the jeep at the frame little by little. Keep trying to pull the bolt out by hand and once the tension is released it will slide right out. Measure it then you can replace it until you get the bit. Once you have the bit and shackle kit you will have to cut the spacer down to however wide the bushing are for the spring and spring hangers. You can use the spacer bolt that comes with the shackle. Now drill out the upper and lower bolts on the shackle and reinstall with the factory bolts.

With that kit my front is now 1/8" lower than the rear.

Sits much better and rides just a fine. I did not check alignment. Toe in stayed the same as no reason it should have changed anyway.

You can use any shackle kit you want as long as the center spacer isn't welded in because no one makes one for the Roxor spring width. That is why we all aren't running new springs. And make sure the bolt holes are smaller cause you can always drill them out. Can't make em smaller....easily.

I am using this as a temp fix until companies start selling springs as an acceptable price but man that SOA kit sure does look sweet.

Would love to see more detailed pics and specs of how he did the perchs.

 

[Jeepish]

I used these.

New Jeep Wrangler Yj 87-95 1" Heavy Duty Front Shackle Pair X 18265.13 | eBay

Of course like anything else in production they will have to be modified but it wasn't difficult. First thing you do it get a drill bit for the factory bolts. I can't remember exactly what it was and I borrowed a bit and have returned it. It was slightly over 5/8" I do remember that. You can pull a bolt loosening one, jacking the jeep at the frame little by little. Keep trying to pull the bolt out by hand and once the tension is released it will slide right out. Measure it then you can replace it until you get the bit. Once you have the bit and shackle kit you will have to cut the spacer down to however wide the bushing are for the spring and spring hangers. You can use the spacer bolt that comes with the shackle. Now drill out the upper and lower bolts on the shackle and reinstall with the factory bolts.

With that kit my front is now 1/8" lower than the rear.

Sits much better and rides just a fine. I did not check alignment. Toe in stayed the same as no reason it should have changed anyway.

You can use any shackle kit you want as long as the center spacer isn't welded in because no one makes one for the Roxor spring width. That is why we all aren't running new springs. And make sure the bolt holes are smaller cause you can always drill them out. Can't make em smaller....easily.

I am using this as a temp fix until companies start selling springs as an acceptable price but man that SOA kit sure does look sweet.

Would love to see more detailed pics and specs of how he did the perchs.

I used these.

New Jeep Wrangler Yj 87-95 1" Heavy Duty Front Shackle Pair X 18265.13 | eBay

Of course like anything else in production they will have to be modified but it wasn't difficult. First thing you do it get a drill bit for the factory bolts. I can't remember exactly what it was and I borrowed a bit and have returned it. It was slightly over 5/8" I do remember that. You can pull a bolt loosening one, jacking the jeep at the frame little by little. Keep trying to pull the bolt out by hand and once the tension is released it will slide right out. Measure it then you can replace it until you get the bit. Once you have the bit and shackle kit you will have to cut the spacer down to however wide the bushing are for the spring and spring hangers. You can use the spacer bolt that comes with the shackle. Now drill out the upper and lower bolts on the shackle and reinstall with the factory bolts.

With that kit my front is now 1/8" lower than the rear.

Sits much better and rides just a fine. I did not check alignment. Toe in stayed the same as no reason it should have changed anyway.

You can use any shackle kit you want as long as the center spacer isn't welded in because no one makes one for the Roxor spring width. That is why we all aren't running new springs. And make sure the bolt holes are smaller cause you can always drill them out. Can't make em smaller....easily.

I am using this as a temp fix until companies start selling springs as an acceptable price but man that SOA kit sure does look sweet.

Would love to see more detailed pics and specs of how he did the perchs.

I used these.

New Jeep Wrangler Yj 87-95 1" Heavy Duty Front Shackle Pair X 18265.13 | eBay

Of course like anything else in production they will have to be modified but it wasn't difficult. First thing you do it get a drill bit for the factory bolts. I can't remember exactly what it was and I borrowed a bit and have returned it. It was slightly over 5/8" I do remember that. You can pull a bolt loosening one, jacking the jeep at the frame little by little. Keep trying to pull the bolt out by hand and once the tension is released it will slide right out. Measure it then you can replace it until you get the bit. Once you have the bit and shackle kit you will have to cut the spacer down to however wide the bushing are for the spring and spring hangers. You can use the spacer bolt that comes with the shackle. Now drill out the upper and lower bolts on the shackle and reinstall with the factory bolts.

With that kit my front is now 1/8" lower than the rear.

Sits much better and rides just a fine. I did not check alignment. Toe in stayed the same as no reason it should have changed anyway.

You can use any shackle kit you want as long as the center spacer isn't welded in because no one makes one for the Roxor spring width. That is why we all aren't running new springs. And make sure the bolt holes are smaller cause you can always drill them out. Can't make em smaller....easily.

I am using this as a temp fix until companies start selling springs as an acceptable price but man that SOA kit sure does look sweet.

Would love to see more detailed pics and specs of how he did the perchs.

Very helpful. Thanks. Would love to see how it looks.

 

[Haerterich]

I have installer an "add a leaf" in the front took about an hour. Measured same point on front bumper, stock was 18 1/2" after 21" and after a couple weeks the spring settled in at 20 1/2". so the add a leaf gained me a solid two inches, the ride was improved. Now my shock ride height is at 18 12", before change it was 16 1/2" so new shocks are comming.

 

[Haerterich]

I forgot, if you plan to go with longer shackles remember stock YJ shackles are 4 inch center to center, stock Roxor 3 inch center to center. for every inch longer you should gain 1/2 inch in height so, you only get 50% of the added length. So the link says it added 1 inch of height to a stock YJ,that means it is 6 inches center to center. put it on a Roxor and you should gain 1 1/2 inch.

 

[44Bogger]

I forgot, if you plan to go with longer shackles remember stock YJ shackles are 4 inch center to center, stock Roxor 3 inch center to center. for every inch longer you should gain 1/2 inch in height so, you only get 50% of the added length. So the link says it added 1 inch of height to a stock YJ,that means it is 6 inches center to center. put it on a Roxor and you should gain 1 1/2 inch.

They are 5" center to center. I got 1 1/8" of lift.

 

[Jeepish]

I have installer an "add a leaf" in the front took about an hour. Measured same point on front bumper, stock was 18 1/2" after 21" and after a couple weeks the spring settled in at 20 1/2". so the add a leaf gained me a solid two inches, the ride was improved. Now my shock ride height is at 18 12", before change it was 16 1/2" so new shocks are comming.

Where did you get the add a leaf? I think I like this option. Also, what shocks did you go with?

 

[Haerterich]

Pro Comp 13120, $36.00 on amazon. easy install. Have not pulled trigger on shocks yet, real want Bilstein 33-230443 or 33-185606, different valving not sure witch one will be better. But to save money, Tuff country 61231 might be ok, i have ran there shocks before and liked them. Our stock front shocks have 8 inch of stroke, fully collapsed 12 1/2 inch eye to eye, fully extend 20 1/2 inch eye to eye. stock ride height for shocks was 16 1/2", right in the middle were it should be. With add a leaf the ride height for shock is 18 1/2". All three of the shocks above are around 14 to 22 inch putting ride height in the middle. I need to get the shocks so i can check axle movement to ensure the brake lines will be long enough, but with the stock shocks they are fine. If you decide to install the add a leaf let me know i can post step by step instructions, i put them on both my sons Roxor and mine. less than an hour each.

 

[General]

If you live in a town with a leaf spring shop, they can work magic. They charged me $260 for the front two springs to both add-a-leaf and re-arch, then paint and reassembly (add 2 inches of ride height, to clear 33's). With this technique the springs should last a long time and is probably the best solution if your leafs are still newer. Also, a side-by-side of Roxor vs CJ springs shows that ours are better designed and built than originals. Even when the Chinese-manufactured aftermarket floods us with Roxor-specific leaf packs, they're going to be near this price, so I just pulled the trigger now.

 

[quickshot]

If you live in a town with a leaf spring shop, they can work magic. They charged me $260 for the front two springs to both add-a-leaf and re-arch, then paint and reassembly (add 2 inches of ride height, to clear 33's). With this technique the springs should last a long time and is probably the best solution if your leafs are still newer. Also, a side-by-side of Roxor vs CJ springs shows that ours are better designed and built than originals. Even when the Chinese-manufactured aftermarket floods us with Roxor-specific leaf packs, they're going to be near this price, so I just pulled the trigger now.

I did the same. Had my local spring shop re-arch front and rear. Also added a leaf in the front. I gained about 3 to 3-5in in front and 2in in back. I now am running 32in tires. Also added new shocks.

 

[Calebp]

Pro Comp 13120, $36.00 on amazon. easy install. Have not pulled trigger on shocks yet, real want Bilstein 33-230443 or 33-185606, different valving not sure witch one will be better. But to save money, Tuff country 61231 might be ok, i have ran there shocks before and liked them. Our stock front shocks have 8 inch of stroke, fully collapsed 12 1/2 inch eye to eye, fully extend 20 1/2 inch eye to eye. stock ride height for shocks was 16 1/2", right in the middle were it should be. With add a leaf the ride height for shock is 18 1/2". All three of the shocks above are around 14 to 22 inch putting ride height in the middle. I need to get the shocks so i can check axle movement to ensure the brake lines will be long enough, but with the stock shocks they are fine. If you decide to install the add a leaf let me know i can post step by step instructions, i put them on both my sons Roxor and mine. less than an hour each.

I’m assuming the add a leafs mounted right up with no modifications?

 

[Haerterich]

That is correct.

1) Jack up front, use tall jack stands right behind the front rear leaf spring mounting point. Higher is better. Let jack down so frame is resting on stands but not all the way down.
2) Remove both tires and shocks, and lower sway bar link nut and washer. Do not need to try to remove sway bar link from stud at this point. Lower jack to allow leaf spring to relax.
3) I started on right side. Remove nuts from U-bolts, once removed you will be able to remove bottom U-bot plate from sway bar link. Then jack up the axle on the side you are working on, higher is better, i had about 3 inches between axle and leaf spring.
4) Clamp leaf spring, with a good C-clamp, about an 1-2 inch behind leaf spring center bolt. Safety first. Use a good vise grip on the top of leaf spring center bolt, the head is round, than remove the nut. Might need a punch to remove center bolt, try not to damage the threads, bolt will be reused.
5) Slowly lossen C-clamp, once lose the very bottom leaf spring will fall out. OK just so you know i tried to keep the leaf springs in the same position, front to front back to back. At this point the remaing leafs hang there due to the second one from bottom has that spring holder riveted to the rear of this leaf.
6) Pull the second leaf outward a little so you can pound this leaf toward the rear of car. As the leaf moves back the holder will become lose and the third and fourth leafs can be removed. Once the leafs are removed you will be able to the slide the second leaf toward the front of the car, get it forward so you can get a good hold on it. Now pull the leaf outward and this will open up the holder, once you have spread it enough you will be able to remove the leaf. (note: i did not reinstall this leaf, one with holder, the add a leaf is almost the same length so it replaces this one in the leaf spring pack. i also was not sure if the U-bolts would be long enough)
7) Useing one of the new center bolts of the same size, should have came with new springs, slide the lowest leaf on the bolt, head of bolt on the bottom side of leaf. than slide on the second, third, and forth. I used the bolt as locating pin. Once all removed leafs are on bolt install bolt up through the two leafs hanging on car, put a nut on it just a few threads will do. now all leafs are hanging in the right order.
8) Using C-clamp again about 1-2 inch behind center bolt, slowly tighten C-clamp and make sure the bolt can move as easily as posable. Once all leafs are compressed together remove the bolt we used as locating pin. Install the original center bolt from the top, may need punch to line up hole well enough to get bolt through, if bolt doesn't want to go in i was able to use long punch and love tap it in form the top. The second set of springs i did one bolt was a bit of a pain so i use a scrap 2x4 in between the axle and head of bolt and slowly let jack down pushing bolt in. Now i reused the bolts because the new ones are so long it would be a pain to get them in. The original bolts were longer as well but once they were installed they cut the extra off. due to these bolts being cut it can be hard to get the nut back on but i was able to reuse all four on the two sets i have installed. So tighten the nut and remove the C-clamp.
9) Lower the axle down onto the leaf spring. The center bolt has a round head the fits into the axle perch this is how the axle is located right. If the bolt does not line up perfect thats ok for now, as long as you can get the u-bolts installed through the lower plate and get all nuts on for a few threads. Just to hold axle in place so you can do the other side. Don't try to get the sway bar link on at this point, well come back for that. Ok so now the first side is back to gather well enough that you can do the same to the other side.
10) Basically do the same thing to the other side. once you get to the U-bolts you should be able to get both leaf spring center bolts into the axle perches. When you install the U-bolt lower plate slide the plate stud into the sway bar link put the U-bolt nuts on then go back to the first side remove U-bolt nuts so you can slide the plate stud into the sway bar link, put the nuts on.
11) Tighten all U-bolts, sway bar link nuts, and install shocks and tires. Once the car is back on the ground measure shock ride height, distance in between the two mounting studs. Both sets i installed gained two inches, 16 1/2 to 18 1/2. We need longer shocks now, i still have not decided witch ones to get.


Reply
Report Edit

 

[Calebp]

That is correct.

1) Jack up front, use tall jack stands right behind the front rear leaf spring mounting point. Higher is better. Let jack down so frame is resting on stands but not all the way down.
2) Remove both tires and shocks, and lower sway bar link nut and washer. Do not need to try to remove sway bar link from stud at this point. Lower jack to allow leaf spring to relax.
3) I started on right side. Remove nuts from U-bolts, once removed you will be able to remove bottom U-bot plate from sway bar link. Then jack up the axle on the side you are working on, higher is better, i had about 3 inches between axle and leaf spring.
4) Clamp leaf spring, with a good C-clamp, about an 1-2 inch behind leaf spring center bolt. Safety first. Use a good vise grip on the top of leaf spring center bolt, the head is round, than remove the nut. Might need a punch to remove center bolt, try not to damage the threads, bolt will be reused.
5) Slowly lossen C-clamp, once lose the very bottom leaf spring will fall out. OK just so you know i tried to keep the leaf springs in the same position, front to front back to back. At this point the remaing leafs hang there due to the second one from bottom has that spring holder riveted to the rear of this leaf.
6) Pull the second leaf outward a little so you can pound this leaf toward the rear of car. As the leaf moves back the holder will become lose and the third and fourth leafs can be removed. Once the leafs are removed you will be able to the slide the second leaf toward the front of the car, get it forward so you can get a good hold on it. Now pull the leaf outward and this will open up the holder, once you have spread it enough you will be able to remove the leaf. (note: i did not reinstall this leaf, one with holder, the add a leaf is almost the same length so it replaces this one in the leaf spring pack. i also was not sure if the U-bolts would be long enough)
7) Useing one of the new center bolts of the same size, should have came with new springs, slide the lowest leaf on the bolt, head of bolt on the bottom side of leaf. than slide on the second, third, and forth. I used the bolt as locating pin. Once all removed leafs are on bolt install bolt up through the two leafs hanging on car, put a nut on it just a few threads will do. now all leafs are hanging in the right order.
8) Using C-clamp again about 1-2 inch behind center bolt, slowly tighten C-clamp and make sure the bolt can move as easily as posable. Once all leafs are compressed together remove the bolt we used as locating pin. Install the original center bolt from the top, may need punch to line up hole well enough to get bolt through, if bolt doesn't want to go in i was able to use long punch and love tap it in form the top. The second set of springs i did one bolt was a bit of a pain so i use a scrap 2x4 in between the axle and head of bolt and slowly let jack down pushing bolt in. Now i reused the bolts because the new ones are so long it would be a pain to get them in. The original bolts were longer as well but once they were installed they cut the extra off. due to these bolts being cut it can be hard to get the nut back on but i was able to reuse all four on the two sets i have installed. So tighten the nut and remove the C-clamp.
9) Lower the axle down onto the leaf spring. The center bolt has a round head the fits into the axle perch this is how the axle is located right. If the bolt does not line up perfect thats ok for now, as long as you can get the u-bolts installed through the lower plate and get all nuts on for a few threads. Just to hold axle in place so you can do the other side. Don't try to get the sway bar link on at this point, well come back for that. Ok so now the first side is back to gather well enough that you can do the same to the other side.
10) Basically do the same thing to the other side. once you get to the U-bolts you should be able to get both leaf spring center bolts into the axle perches. When you install the U-bolt lower plate slide the plate stud into the sway bar link put the U-bolt nuts on then go back to the first side remove U-bolt nuts so you can slide the plate stud into the sway bar link, put the nuts on.
11) Tighten all U-bolts, sway bar link nuts, and install shocks and tires. Once the car is back on the ground measure shock ride height, distance in between the two mounting studs. Both sets i installed gained two inches, 16 1/2 to 18 1/2. We need longer shocks now, i still have not decided witch ones to get.


Reply
Report Edit

My add a leaf kits are scheduled to arrive on the 14th! Thanks for the info. If you figure out a good shock option please let us know!

 

[Haerterich]

Did some measuring on the shocks decided to try, Bilstein 46mm Monotube Shock Absorber 33-230443, won't get them until end of week.
Once i get them on i will post it.

 

[Calebp]

Did some measuring on the shocks decided to try, Bilstein 46mm Monotube Shock Absorber 33-230443, won't get them until end of week.
Once i get them on i will post it.

Sounds good. Thanks again!

 

[JoeMc]

Ordered my added a leaf tonight. Please let us know if there are any break lines mod's needed. Thanks

 

[Calebp]

Ordered my added a leaf tonight. Please let us know if there are any break lines mod's needed. Thanks

I installed mine last night and the brake lines looked good with no mod. I left all other leafs in the pack and just added mine where it fit and had no issues with anything. Haven’t gotten the chance to flex my suspension or test it yet tho.

 

[JoeMc]

I installed mine last night and the brake lines looked good with no mod. I left all other leafs in the pack and just added mine where it fit and had no issues with anything. Haven’t gotten the chance to flex my suspension or test it yet tho.

Thanks