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HVAC heater

Darstar

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Did you "T" into the lines or circulate fully through the heater?

I put a tee in the 5/8” hose pressure side by the water pump, then routed into ERG, then to heater inlet. Check out mopar 93 install, I followed his example, I did use silicone heater hose which was easy to work with plus two molded hoses from NAPA.
 
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Bister

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I put a tee in the 5/8” hose pressure side by the water pump, then routed into ERG, then to heater inlet. Check out mopar 93 install, I followed his example, I did use silicone heater hose which was easy to work with plus two molded hoses from NAPA.

The factory install goes direct after the ERG and them back to the rad. You'll get more heat if you do that, you get full unrestricted flow. If you watch that video I did you will see me point to where they cut the hoses by the bracket on the valve cover. You can't turn the heat off to the heater in the summer, but a person could change the straight fittings to T's with a couple valves.

EDIT: I looked at his install, where you have the 2nd T, that is where I spliced in direct and it goes straight to the heater, that is my first splice to the heater. Then the return line splices in right across from in on the valve cover. The are just a straight splice, no T's. You will find you can't hold your hand in front of it then. It shows it in the video.

EDIT 2: I show where the splice is done at the 1:40 mark and again at the 4:55 mark.
 
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shawnr

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Looking to buy
Got my heater from on the Rox thank you for the fast shipping install will be in The next few weekends

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Darstar

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The factory install goes direct after the ERG and them back to the rad. You'll get more heat if you do that, you get full unrestricted flow. If you watch that video I did you will see me point to where they cut the hoses by the bracket on the valve cover. You can't turn the heat off to the heater in the summer, but a person could change the straight fittings to T's with a couple valves.

EDIT: I looked at his install, where you have the 2nd T, that is where I spliced in direct and it goes straight to the heater, that is my first splice to the heater. Then the return line splices in right across from in on the valve cover. The are just a straight splice, no T's. You will find you can't hold your hand in front of it then. It shows it in the video.

EDIT 2: I show where the splice is done at the 1:40 mark and again at the 4:55 mark.

Thanks for the info. Leaving for Texas tomorrow, will fixwhen I get there. .......not looking forward to backing it up snowy ramp to a wet trailer floor. I put out 15 50 lb sacks salt today. And 2 more inches tonight..
 
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Bister

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Thanks for the info. Leaving for Texas tomorrow, will fixwhen I get there. .......not looking forward to backing it up snowy ramp to a wet trailer floor. I put out 15 50 lb sacks salt today. And 2 more inches tonight..
Let me know if you notice a difference.
 
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Bister

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So I drove down to the Shack with the dogs and the Roxor was idling for a few minutes so I grabbed the thermometer from the shack and held it under the heater. I was still climbing but I didn’t want to pop it. And it gets hotter than that while driving.

F06D4B56-8BD6-4A3B-88BC-8EE5E860F14D.jpeg
842E2C61-87BE-474E-AE1E-517E8A72B2CF.jpegE458493D-C10F-4AAD-B6DE-E5A45AC9DE84.jpeg84AD2F8A-BCA1-4236-A170-F73B8E749BA2.jpeg
 

on_the_rox

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MikeT

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To resurrect this thread with two questions that I have. With the factory heater, why do you cut new holes rather than go through the existing firewall cutouts? I understand the heater has the hoses orientated to the right, but can't you simply turn it 90 degrees?

Secondly, any reason why you couldn't use a two way rocker switch (like with headights) so you can get low/high speeds? perhaps adding a resister to one side of the rocker?
 

Darstar

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I have found the after market heater is a better choice. I have 2 speed fans ,32,000 btu, all mounts under dash just 2 holes in dash for directed ducts....am still working on a defroster outlet, so far it’s an extra duct hose.......
 
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Bister

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To resurrect this thread with two questions that I have. With the factory heater, why do you cut new holes rather than go through the existing firewall cutouts? I understand the heater has the hoses orientated to the right, but can't you simply turn it 90 degrees?

Secondly, any reason why you couldn't use a two way rocker switch (like with headights) so you can get low/high speeds? perhaps adding a resister to one side of the rocker?

The hoses are orientated straight back and the heater is right against the fire wall, out of site and the hoses line up perfect with where you have to tie them in. Not worth fighting with moving them, easier to drill the new holes. Those are the only holes you have to drill besides a few for mounting and nice templates are included for drilling them, the defrost kit slips over without cutting your dash or relocating anything and works real good. An hour or 2 tops to install if you have all the tools and the Roxor is prewired for the factory kit. Plug and Play.

I added a 3 speed switch with resistors, made a huge difference. I see universal parts now has a nice 2 speed rocker to match the factory switches with a resistor.

Universal Parts Inc. | High Performance Automotive Cooling | Humboldt, IA

Screen Shot 2019-03-21 at 12.33.20 PM.png


This is how close the heater is to the fire wall. The ends of the pipes coming out of the heater are right at it.

07888298-774A-4A34-942E-7994266AFFAF.jpeg
 
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mopar93

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Earlier in this thread, I posted photos and described how I installed a heater in my Roxor along with how I arranged the heater hoses. The temperatures outside were in the 40's and 50's (Fahrenheit) when I did this and the heater worked very well. But, as winter moved along and temperatures got colder, I found that the heat coming from the heater wasn't hot enough. There was not enough coolant flow through the heater core. I had arranged the heater hoses in a "parallel" type of connection with the egr cooler. I did this because my heater has a shut off valve which allowed me to close off the flow to the heater during the summer. During the winter, the valve could be opened and coolant would flow through the heater core. With the hoses mounted in parallel with the egr cooler, flow through the cooler would still happen if the heater core valve was closed. This winter, I wanted more heat, so I rearranged the heater hoses in series with the egr cooler. But now, I have to make sure I never close the valve on the heater. If I close it, flow will stop through the heater core but also will stop through the egr cooler and that would be a bad thing. The hoses now first flow through the egr cooler which raises the temperature of the coolant a little more. Then it flows through the heater core and then back to the engine. The result is much hotter heat now. I will be comfortable this winter.
 
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Bister

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Earlier in this thread, I posted photos and described how I installed a heater in my Roxor along with how I arranged the heater hoses. The temperatures outside were in the 40's and 50's (Fahrenheit) when I did this and the heater worked very well. But, as winter moved along and temperatures got colder, I found that the heat coming from the heater wasn't hot enough. There was not enough coolant flow through the heater core. I had arranged the heater hoses in a "parallel" type of connection with the egr cooler. I did this because my heater has a shut off valve which allowed me to close off the flow to the heater during the summer. During the winter, the valve could be opened and coolant would flow through the heater core. With the hoses mounted in parallel with the egr cooler, flow through the cooler would still happen if the heater core valve was closed. This winter, I wanted more heat, so I rearranged the heater hoses in series with the egr cooler. But now, I have to make sure I never close the valve on the heater. If I close it, flow will stop through the heater core but also will stop through the egr cooler and that would be a bad thing. The hoses now first flow through the egr cooler which raises the temperature of the coolant a little more. Then it flows through the heater core and then back to the engine. The result is much hotter heat now. I will be comfortable this winter.
That's how the OEM ones are plumbed. If you add a cross over line before the heater with a valve, you can turn your heater valve off and open the cross over for summer if you like. Mine has coolant flow all year, it doesn't bother me. I actually like it, use it lots on cool evenings in the summer.
 

jrobz23

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Many of us don't have EGR any longer (for engine longevity reasons) so this won't be much of an issue.
 
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