Hard cab and full cj doors

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rifleman1981

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I’d say I’ll pass dot inspection and be street legal in a few weeks, used a scrambler half cab, and cut the frame and mounted Jeep cj hard doors, it’s just my opinion, but I think it looks better than anything else on the market at this point.....
477595BD-45D8-4DE9-B6A4-BA31A6649214.jpeg


477595BD-45D8-4DE9-B6A4-BA31A6649214.jpeg
 
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rifleman1981

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I also pulled the transfer case, and removed the interlock pill and did a twin stick conversion, so I can use 2 high, 2 low, 4 high and 4 low. The sticks are in a lot better position now.
244AE51A-0921-4409-893A-8AB59E43323E.png


244AE51A-0921-4409-893A-8AB59E43323E.png
 
44Bogger

44Bogger

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Looks great all around.

I'll start with the many question you are going to get.

Could you give us a step by step on the twin stick?

I know where the pill is/what is does. Did you completely remove the t case or can you get it out by removing the front bearing assembly and leaving the t case installed?

And I see you used cables to move the rods, interesting.
 
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mrdkoch

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Love the use of the Jeep windshield and hard top. Looking to do that myself, but got some negative feedback on the project - too expensive and too much work. Could you pm me with details of your efforts so far? Thanks.
 
jrobz23

jrobz23

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Herm makes a twin stick setup for the Spicer18. Not sure if his works on the Roxor variant, but worth a call.

Novak also sells a nice double boot. This will keep everything in stock locale and might avoid drilling/cutting
 
jrobz23

jrobz23

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What all did you do to the CJ7 doors and how flush does it fit?

I measured it up right when I got it and no normal doors were a snug fit.
 
Kake America

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rifleman1981

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So, the twin stick was on an old Jeep I had traded for, I had to make yokes that fit over the shift rails, and build a bracket that held them out of flat strap and attach it to the threaded part of the transfer case that holds the springs and detent balls for the shift rails. I used a cable shifter because I hated where the factory shift lever was, where it is now is as easy as shifting the transmission. As for the doors, there is nothing easy about them, I had to relocate the hinges, and cut the back of the door frame, they fit flush just like they would on a Jeep but I think I took about 5” of the frame out on the back side. As far as negative feedback, a factory cab that’s equivalent to what I built is $5000, I’ve got less than $1000 worth of parts in what I did, and it looks better to me than what I can buy. You can pickup cj, yj, or tj doors between $300 and $800, I have $600 for the scrambler cab, but I do have a ton of time and labor in it.
 
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rifleman1981

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You can ou
Looks great all around.

I'll start with the many question you are going to get.

Could you give us a step by step on the twin stick?

I know where the pill is/what is does. Did you completely remove the t case or can you get it out by removing the front bearing assembly and leaving the t case installed?

And I see you used cables to move the rods, interesting.
ll the bearing assembly/nose cone off, you need to drop the crossmember and pull the rubber transfer case mount, there’s 5 bolts holding the housing on. I didn’t pull my whole case but you will loose some oil.
 
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44Bogger

44Bogger

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You can ou

ll the bearing assembly/nose cone off, you need to drop the crossmember and pull the rubber transfer case mount, there’s 5 bolts holding the housing on. I didn’t pull my whole case but you will loose some oil.

Awesome, could you please take a pic of the underside?
 
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Randy Burns

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This is what the aftermarket guys need to be building, this looks way better than anything out there by far!! Looks great.
 
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M151

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It looks incredible. So is it finished?
 
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