Climax Offroad Long Travel Suspension Kits

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Max A.

Max A.

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Somebody needs to come out with a bolt in heavy duty upgrade. Sorta like the Currie setup for the TJ’s. Heavier tubing and stouter tie rod ends.
I’ll make a bolt in direct replacement kit soon. Going to work with wade at diesel freak to get it out since I don’t have a stockish roxor anymore to work with. I’ll let you know here in the coming weeks.


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txroadkill

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I’ll make a bolt in direct replacement kit soon. Going to work with wade at diesel freak to get it out since I don’t have a stockish roxor anymore to work with. I’ll let you know here in the coming weeks.


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Being steered towards a climax is gonna be awesome


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H

Holleyb19

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Hey Max,
When are you thinking the next batch of long travel kits will come out? I also noticed that On The Rox has come out with some doublers for the frame due to cracking from steering stress. Have you noticed any breakdown on your machines frame members running 35's? Do you have hydraulic assist on our Roxor?

Brian
 
Colderweather86

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As far is I know all 6 kits out right now are using bilstein 33-104645 on all 4 corners with 2.5 springs.


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Correct. But as you stated earlier, 4 people and/or added weight on the rear will sag it down. I recommend a taller spring in the rear if people are going to have a lot of gear in the back.
 
Max A.

Max A.

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Hey Max,
When are you thinking the next batch of long travel kits will come out? I also noticed that On The Rox has come out with some doublers for the frame due to cracking from steering stress. Have you noticed any breakdown on your machines frame members running 35's? Do you have hydraulic assist on our Roxor?

Brian
The frame is not the issue. It’s the design. Mahindra uses a through sleeve with a shoulder. It is tack welded into the frame. The tack welds fail causing the steering box to come loose and brake bolts holding the steering box in.

611471c33724ed1e87eef6db481e9d65.jpg

633f310a39e54bde4a9b2d24364150fc.jpg

(Photo credit to Rick Cecco)

The correct way to sleeve a frame is to insert a sleeve into the frame from the outside and have a smaller diameter hole on the inside that stops the sleeve but allows the bolt to pass though. That way the frame is holding the stress of the box and the sleeves are on the there to keep the frame from crushing.

The way Mahindra has it is SCARY! The steering box is only held on by those tack welds. Once these things start to fatigue over time or rust and weaken the box mounts will fail even with stock size tires.

Mine did cost me my hammers run when the welds failed. (Kicking myself for overlooking it)

Fully welding the sleeves previous to them breaking is highly suggested. The On The Rox kit is overkill for most but not completely unnecessary especially if your wheeling hard with a front locker or using wheel spacers.


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Last edited:
Cloud

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The frame is not the issue. It’s the design. Mahindra uses a through sleeve with a shoulder. It is tack welded into the frame. The tack welds fail causing the steering box to come loose and brake bolts holding the steering box in.

View attachment 8978
View attachment 8979
(Photo credit to Rick Cecco)

The correct way to sleeve a frame is to nice insert a sleeve into the frame from the outside and have a smaller diameter hole on the inside that stops the sleeve but allows the bolt to pass though. That way the frame is holding the stress of the box and the sleeves are on the there to keep the frame from crushing.

The way Mahindra has it is SCARY! The steering box is only held on by those tack welds. Once these things start to fatigue over time or rust and weaken the box mounts will fail even with stock size tires.

Mine did cost me my hammers run when the welds failed. (Kicking myself for overlooking it)

Fully welding the sleeves previous to them breaking is highly suggested. The On The Rox kit is overkill for most but not completely unnecessary especially if your wheeling hard with a front locker or using wheel spacers.


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And I really thought I was done spending money not even 20 minutes ago
 
Leslie

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Just looking at the Bilstein Series 125 size chart trying (without measuring) to get an idea of which shocks will work with the extended travel kit and 1.5" springs. Using 2.5" springs resulting in 4" of lift the shocks uses are 33-104645 with 10.17" travel, 15.91" compression length, 25.93 extended length. The factory lift with 3" of lift uses Bilstein shocks in the front with 8.45" travel, 14.13" compression length, and 22.58" total length. If I subtract 1" (2.5" springs - 1.5" springs) from the 25.93" extended length on shocks used on 4" lift i get 24.93". If you look at the attached 5125 series size chart this would point me to the 33-186542 shocks to be used with 1.5" springs. They are valved slightly firmer than what is used for the 4" lift but the 170/60 valving is not available. Is my logic correct and a good starting point?
 

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