No it did not, I just wanted to see if I'm potentially shaving off the longevity side of the motor
At 220 you're okay and can run that all day long. When you start getting up towards 250 and above, then what happens is, the heat starts to break down your engine oil, and that's why you get early wear and tear.
The engine itself doesn't care if it's 190 or 250, but the fluids in it do care and care a lot when it gets too hot. This is why diesels generally have larger oil pans and hold more oil, because they want that oil to be able to remain hot but not too hot over long periods of operation which diesels are made for like over the road trucking where an engine will need to pull a heavy load up and over mountains, and through the heat of deserts.
The hotter the engine gets, the more heat the oil naturally absorbs too, and while oil has to run hot and above 212 so it can burn off any moisture or fuel or any contaminates in it, there is a limit, but I seriously doubt any Roxor has ever been pushed to that limit to where they've heated up the engine oil THAT much to where it's breaking down and causing premature engine wear. I don't care if your engine did hit 250 or 260 even, it would have to do that for a LONG period of time, before the oil reached those same temps that your coolant is at.
What will happen WAAAAY before the oil gets over heated, is the coolant will boil over and into the overflow tank and you will stop the engine in your all-out panic attack you'll be having. The radiator cap has a rating which is probably 15 pounds. For every pound of pressure your cap is rated for, it RAISES the boiling point of your coolant 3 degrees. So, a 15 pound cap adds 45 degrees to the boiling point of 212 for a new boiling point of 257 degrees, which is around the temp that your oil will start to break down which is 260 and higher, to as much as 275 in some high-performance engine oils.
This is why you NEVER remove a radiator cap from a hot engine. When you do, you instantly lower the boiling point back down to 212 and it WILL come screaming out. If you're higher up in the mountains, your boiling point is even lower to due having less air pressure.
If your oil runs too cold, that's just as bad since now that moisture stays in the oil, and just because your coolant reads that your engine is warm, your oil takes much longer to warm up, and short trips in the winter means your oil never gets to operating temp and then stays there for a while in order to burn off any moisture or whatever is in it.
Short trips will build up condensation inside the engine crankcase and it does this every time you run the engine.
What happens is, the air in the crankcase EXPANDS when hot and if you don't run the engine long enough for the oil to burn off the moisture in it, and you shut the engine down, the air in the crankcase starts to cool and CONTRACT in the crankcase and will pull in new air and NEW MOISTURE inside it and with every cycle of doing this, more and more moisture just keeps building up in your oil over and over with every short trip....there's no magic here.
You hear people say all the time short trips are bad for an engine, but don't know why it's bad.
This is why short trips are not good for an engine, and how they can cause more damage than being hot, and in the winter, you should take the vehicle out and run it at highway speeds for an hour or so once a week, if you're doing a lot of short trips in the winter, and even the summer to some degree. This is also good for the vehicles battery, and warms it up as well, so it can take a full charge now.
