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Share your Mahindra Roxor Pictures!

CJ2Rox

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Clearfield, UT, USA
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I'm running a cold air intake with a Amsoil cone filter I also have a dust cover for it to reduce cleaning. I made the intake tube from a posted suggestion from here for of a blazer. The filter that came with the kit is garbage.
 

Ixworth

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Apr 3, 2022
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Palmer Lake, CO
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90DF0C8F-8181-4F21-A72A-9EA6D0ACB3A0.jpeg

A few mods, and my road ready Roxor rig does it all. Best $16K I ever spent on a vehicle...
 

Jfuller

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Definitely go and get an engine tune plus boost valve. That is the only thing (besides a bigger turbo) that will add power. Whichever supplier you pick, you will notice the difference from stock.

Install the improved intake kit (machined aluminum) from either Diesel Freak (called: intake connection kit) or Calibrated Power (called: grid heater hold down). Same purpose, different name.
The rubber boot on the intake will come loose 100% of the time every time and boost will drop.

As for the catalytic converter, eliminating it will not make a difference on power.
Also, going to a bigger exhaust has no noticeable impact on performance. Removing the muffler will also not make a noticeable difference in power, but makes the machine a very tiny bit louder. However, the muffler also has a spark arrestor built in.

Do not mess with the intake grid heater. It also does not restrict flow. It makes sure your machine breaths warm air at startup when outside temp is below 45F (and diesel does not condense inside cylinder walls). I say 45F because my 2022 diesel pickup has a few seconds start delay (for the intake heater to do its job) at about that temperature.

Members on this forum are reporting 10K, 25K, even 40K miles. Well maintained and cared for, the machines will last years.

Hoping this helps.
Definitely go and get an engine tune plus boost valve. That is the only thing (besides a bigger turbo) that will add power. Whichever supplier you pick, you will notice the difference from stock.

Install the improved intake kit (machined aluminum) from either Diesel Freak (called: intake connection kit) or Calibrated Power (called: grid heater hold down). Same purpose, different name.
The rubber boot on the intake will come loose 100% of the time every time and boost will drop.

As for the catalytic converter, eliminating it will not make a difference on power.
Also, going to a bigger exhaust has no noticeable impact on performance. Removing the muffler will also not make a noticeable difference in power, but makes the machine a very tiny bit louder. However, the muffler also has a spark arrestor built in.

Do not mess with the intake grid heater. It also does not restrict flow. It makes sure your machine breaths warm air at startup when outside temp is below 45F (and diesel does not condense inside cylinder walls). I say 45F because my 2022 diesel pickup has a few seconds start delay (for the intake heater to do its job) at about that temperature.

Members on this forum are reporting 10K, 25K, even 40K miles. Well maintained and cared for, the machines will last years.

Hoping this helps.
Thanks for the advice! That helped out big time.
 

Jfuller

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If you are in a dust prone area keep the stock air filter. I switched to a AP filter set up, similar to a K&N style, and it does a good job sucking in the air but it also attracts the dust and requires frequent cleaning depending on where you run. I also added the factory radiator shroud to help channel air flow. Been to Death Valley twice with no issues. Love the game rack (y).
Good to know. Yeah we’re down in south Texas, typically next to desert like weather most of the time. Thanks for the advice!
 

Wyohandscold

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May 14, 2022
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Saratoga WY
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You doing the OX locker front and rear?
Being locked in the rear is important with tracks so it’ll be a rear locker. Lots of people are having issues with the stock front axles breaking when locked.
 

JFro

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Great video / info!!
Thanks for sharing.
so upgraded U-Joints would be a solid solution for someone who’s not hardcore.
I’m mostly a crawler.
luv me some low 5.38 gearing
 

txroadkill

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Great video / info!!
Thanks for sharing.
so upgraded U-Joints would be a solid solution for someone who’s not hardcore.
I’m mostly a crawler.
luv me some low 5.38 gearing


Maybe. Your still dealing with a yoke that isn’t running true. Bigger tires won’t help.you at all. The only solid solution IMO is to upgrade to aftermarket shafts which means upgrading your carrier, which means new gears as well. Upgrading just the joints might help but it’s not a guarantee
 

JFro

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I’m not currently having any issues at all.
buggy is 100% great.
I’ve got warm hubs.
just thinking lockers may be my next step.

F831ADC4-0552-40B2-B9AA-E23F22F50B6D.jpeg
 

Atomus

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I still got a ways to go with this build but with just the 35 inch tires a 2 inch spacers I can go just about anywhere here in Louisiana.

20221125_131207.jpg 20221125_131212.jpg 20221125_131232.jpg
 

Atomus

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Big tires how's your flex with your body
Flex as in the body and tires rubbing without a lift? Not bad as long as I'm not loaded down with the duck boat and other supplies go down a 4wheeler trail. I ordered the inch and a half lift in hopes of stopping that because I really don't want to lift it much more than that. After the lift if it still rubs I might go with an air bag kit on the rear Axle.
 

CJ2Rox

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I didn't go as big but when going over bumps the rear bottoms out. Added 1inch longer shackles to fix it. I run 235 8516 with the aftermarket bumper and level kit it hits. Had to cut a bit of bumper off.
 

Atomus

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I didn't go as big but when going over bumps the rear bottoms out. Added 1inch longer shackles to fix it. I run 235 8516 with the aftermarket bumper and level kit it hits. Had to cut a bit of bumper off.
With the inch longer shackles did the rear tires move closer to the front of the wheel well or did it move straight down?
 

CJ2Rox

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So the front the did the level kit from RC. With the longer shackles, rear was just longer shackles. No adjustments needed to the axles.
 

txroadkill

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With the inch longer shackles did the rear tires move closer to the front of the wheel well or did it move straight down?

Only way your gonna move that axle forward is with a different spring set up. Climax off-roads kit that uses YJ springs moves the axle forward. There’s extensive write ups here on the kit if you do a search.

I hate to say it but if you intend to do any real wheeling with 35s your gonna need more than a shackle lift to do it correctly. A shackle lift and 31-32s is doable IMO. Disconnect sway bar and your probably gonna rub with that set up. I’m running a shackle lift (climax off-road rear shackles at both ends) an OTR 2.5” front spring level kit and 3” rear lift springs off eBay, and I also ditched my sway bar. I had to extend my bump stops at both ends to prevent rubbing at full flex. I’m on 33s and if my math is right I’m bump stopped enough to run 35s with out rubbing anywhere.
 
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