Heater hose routing question

[Benjamin Breeg]

Can someone tell me if I have my heater plumbed backwards? After reading Mopar93’s excellent post in another thread I judge I may have the intake and return backwards.

2019 Roxor with Summit Racing 260 cfm, 28,000 BTU heater does not produce heat. A warm sensation occurs only!

Red arrow is my intake. Yellow arrow is my return. Bridge T valve between the two of them is the heater shut off. I’m fairly confident I ran all the air out of the lines by running it around on streets until the engine was hot.

Summit Racing SUM-991102-1 Summit Racing™ Automotive Heaters | Summit Racing

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Heater link above. I know the engine doesn’t get that hot. It also seems that this EGR line that has been tapped doesn’t produce much circulation.

Thanks

 

[USMC]

"COOLANT CONNECTIONS The vehicle cooling system should be cool and drained and rubber plugs removed from inlet/outlet tubes on the core, prior to heater installation. 9˝ heaters have no bias in hose connection. 16˝ heaters have one tube marked ‘inlet’, this tube must be connected to the coolant source and not the return. Connecting the heater inlet to the return line will reduce heat output as much as 25%. Plan routing of the wiring and 5/8˝ heater hoses so they will not be damaged by sharp edges or abrasion. After the vehicle has come to operating temperature the first time with heater installed and hand valve open, the cooling system will need to be ‘topped up’ as air trapped during the installation will have escaped."


It looks like for your system it would not matter due to the fact that by your kit number you have the 9-inch unit and per Summit there is no bias in the hose connection. I would look for possible obstructions.

I would check that valve, the water usually routes with the direction of the handle. So, in line with the hose then the water would flow through that hose.

 

[Benjamin Breeg]

Rubber plugs were removed. Chincom T Valve is in the open position for this plumbing although it looks like it should be closed based on this pic. Radiator did get low after air escaped heater core, and it needed about half a gallon of coolant. I’ll check Chinese T valve again next time I’m around the vehicle/kansas. Thanks for confirming that inlet and outlet are neutral on this heater.

If the T valve is indeed open as I recall from install, any thoughts on alternative plumbing to get more flow to heater core?

 

[USMC]

You could park the front end uphill and run it to see if you can get any trapped air out.

 

[plumbstraight]

I plumbed mine in from the pump through the heater and back through the heat exchanger. Thing is I took the heat valve that shuts off the heater circulation as it would stop water flow through the system. I see the cross flow in the unit in the picture but don't understand how it would put all the engine heat through the heater unless there is a check valve to bypass the heater as the engine needs the water through the intercooler.
What I see with the one valve in the picture, if it were turned to send water to the heater and the heater was turned down it would restrict the intercooler.

 

[Benjamin Breeg]

I removed my EGR cooler which had me remove the three way ball valve and redirect hose in the pic above. Now I just have an inlet hose and outlet hose to the heater with a shutoff valve. I’m still using the hoses the EGR cooler uses.

The heater doesn’t melt your toes, but it performs better than it did with the plumbing pictured above. I just don’t know if this diesel gets hot enough when it’s 20 degrees with only a windshield and rear bulk head. We also just drive this around the deer lease in these nasty low temps so pleasure cruises aren’t desirable to test its prowess!