Turning Radius
- Thread starter jrobz23
- Start date
Considering it has leaf springs at all corners it probably is what it is. There's usually some sort of stop adjustment on the steering knuckle to let the wheel turn further but it's usually near or close to the safe point where the tire won't hit the springs, frame or something else for that matter. But then again, maybe they were very conservative in thinking that most people will go with wider tires. Or perhaps it is a steering part limitation. But without having a Roxor front end to look at, this is just speculation.
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I picked mine up today and this was the first thing I did. Turning radius to the left was much worse than the right. There is a 13/16” jam nut and a 9/16” bolt. Loosen the jam nut and adjust the bolt in until the tire is close to the leaf spring. Turning radius was increased by 50%. Hope this helps
I "fixed" mine also. I believe the Factory sets it so you can't turn sharp for Liability reasons.
foxstand
New member
I turned mine in as well. It didn't have a Jam nut though. They must have done something else because I needed a wrench to turn it.
JRSgunsmithing
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Any photos would help.
The steering limiter bolts are located just rearward of the knuckle. It's a bolt about 2 inches long with a 14mm head and a 17mm jam nut at the base. You loosen the jam nut, then twist the bolt in or out until you get to the right spot. The right spot is where your tire is may 1/2 inch from hitting stuff. I have 32.5" diameter tires with 2" leaf spring lift, and the nearest thing to hitting is the rearward end of the tire hitting the leaf spring. The forward part of the tire is less close than the back, so use the back to gauge how far you set your steering limiter bolts. There's one on the left knuckle and an identical one on the right knuckle, and you have to adjust both of them, hopefully evenly.
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I know this is an old post but it’s useful. I adjusted the steering limiter bolts today and I can now make my switchback trail turns on my property without a reverse. Very nice.
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Like was said above, I believe it is a safety / liability thing to keep you from turning too quick.
Definitely one of the very first things to adjust. In my case swapping to 235/85R16 10 Ply Mud & Snow Tires was NUMBER ONE on The List, followed by adjusting the wheel stops. I took mine to the tire shop and had them adjust the wheel stops on the lift. Much easier.
Bob R
Definitely one of the very first things to adjust. In my case swapping to 235/85R16 10 Ply Mud & Snow Tires was NUMBER ONE on The List, followed by adjusting the wheel stops. I took mine to the tire shop and had them adjust the wheel stops on the lift. Much easier.
Bob R
AZROX
Well-known member
Willys / Kaiser / Jeep had these screws +70 years ago. Not a liability thing.
The axles were designed to be universal and fit whatever vehicle (e.g. some Cj5s had a draw bar to fit a plow).
The engineers made the wheel stops adjustable to allow for more or less wheel turn before the tire rubbed the frame.
The axles were designed to be universal and fit whatever vehicle (e.g. some Cj5s had a draw bar to fit a plow).
The engineers made the wheel stops adjustable to allow for more or less wheel turn before the tire rubbed the frame.
Flyingfish
Member
I would suggest that the reason for limiting steering angle is durability. Many of us are applying significant loads to the universal joints at high deflection angles. Just as torque demand increases on a ratchet wrench at high angles...