ALL THIS SHOCK TALK, MY SHOCK QUEST.

[BDRAG]

To start, I had this irritating sqweeeek that did not go away with greasing the chassis. So while under the Roxor With it on my buddies lift, I started pushing up and down on the chassis and the squeek was comming from the front left shock. well crap! so on the ole forum I go.

So I read about Bilstines and KYB shocks and did some looking on my own.

I have Max A's 1-1/2" front shackle lift and 1" rear lift. So after adding 4 degree shims in the front to get my camber back right after the lift, I think I wound up with about 1-1/4" lift. It's just what I wanted. So I figure I have made my shock travel lose at least 1 ".

O.k. so me being the cheap bas tard club president, I started my own SHOCK QUEST. Lol.

I looked up and read all the threads here. Money, money money. The Bilstines and the rest all cost a chunk of change$$$. So I have always had good luck with Monroe gas shocks. I had a set of Rancharo shocks on a 94 Ford Ranger 4x4 and they completely ruined the ride. Road like a stiff log wagon. After 20,000 miles I threw a $80 set of 4 Monroe shocks on it and fell in love with that truck all over again.

So I found a Monroe shock on line at Advanced Auto Parts that from it's numbers would work. $19 bucks ea. with a 25% off coupon. Now I was going on measurements others had posted here. I did not pull off my shocks and measure for myself. Sigh! The shocks I bought were 3/4" shorter at full extentinsion on the front. Not good. Only maybe 3/8" shorter on tears. Screw it, I put them on and went for a drive .

Man-o- man did it make a difference. First off, the front left shock I pulled off sounded like a horror movie casket lid opening and closing. Sqeeeeeeeek in both directions. So that issue solved ! The ride was amazingly composed. I hit a turn into my alley behind my house at ,bout 35 mph in a right turn. Usually you get a violent head bob left then right 2-3 times. This time it was just a slight head Bob. WOW! I did it 3 more times. Amazinbly composed. I then hit some speed cushions a few blocks over. Dead on with both wheels, bounced hard but not as bad as before. Hit them with passenger side at speeds of 30 mph and ya get a bounce but not near as violent as before. IM SOLD. Major improvement.

So I was not worried with the slight rear shocks shorter length. Now the front did concern me. So back on line. I found a shock that was 1-1/4" longer than OEM shock extended. Exactly where I think I am with my lift. 21-5/8" , 8 " of travel, 13-5/8" compressed. I ordered them. I could not tell from the web site if the mounting holes were the correct size. They looked like there is a metal bushing in the rubber. I figger I'll deal with that if it's to small. $17 each with that 25% off coupon. Lol.

So they come in the next day. Perfect length. The shock is bigger in diameter than the OEM? HUMMMM? Will they fit? These shocks have a plastic compression thingy keeping them compressed. Now the bushing in the rubber is to small. The O.D. of the bushing is the size of Roxor mounting stud. Ok, just push out the bushing right? Hell no. I pressed using a c clamp and got the pin I used to push out the sleeve stuck in the rubber. CRAP! So after a few choice words I give up and will do them at work tommarra.

So what I did was take my old OEM shocks and the new Monroe's and pressed out the rubber bushings of both shocks on an arbor press and then stuffed the OEM bushing with the correct size hole from the OEM shocks into the new Monroe's. Perfect ! Got home and began the swap.

So the driver's side first, tried to shove on the swapped bushed shock. Errrrrrrrr. It was tight. Finally got the top on with some rubber mallet persuasion and then I had to TRY, TRY TRY , to collapse the shock to get the bottom to mount. After some Mo Fing and knuclke bustin I pulled the top back off and put the bottom on with the same cussin and rubber malleting. Then I was able to use my well over 1/8 of a ton of weight and pull down the shock into place. Damnit Jim! That was a Be Otch! Once on I can see I have about 1/8" of clearance between the frame and shock? Yikes! I'll see if it hits. If it does I'll add a few washers to space it out. I won't like doing that. Lol.

So over to the other side, now this time I decided to leave the plastic collapse rope on. Perfect. Beat the top on then the bottom. Now why did I pull that rope off the first one????. Getting old sucks! Lol.

So off for a test run. It rides great and with the fronts being larger than the OEM shocks it seems a tad more stiff than the first set of front Monroe's. I hit the same speed cushions and did the head bobble test and it's great. No different with the larger front shock than with the first Monroe's.

Off in a bit for a 50 mile test run. I will see if the new Monroe's Gas Matics hit the frame and see how it all feels.

So for about $80, I have shocked myself. I hope my SHOCK QUEST is over. Lol.

Pics are a comparison of the first, to short for front Monroe and the ones I put on that required blood, sweat and old man bruises to install. Lol.

BDRAG

 

[Max A.]

My concern would be the caliper banjo bolt contacting shock. You may have to dial out the steering stop and limit the already terrible turning radius even more.

One of the nice things about the bilstiens is that they are inverted so the shaft side goes down and there is no metal shaft shield so you can dial the steering stop in and get a few more degrees out of the steering without making shock contact.

What matters more then the brand is valving. In reality most shocks are manufactured by Kayaba corporation (KYB) and rebranded. Even recognizable “name brand” shocks are KYB. Hell the factory mahindra shocks are KYB.

What matters the valve spec. Basic Shocks are simple, a viscous fluid passing through an orifice. One for compression and then back through the rebound side. Most basic shocks do not list a valve spec they are optimized for the vehicle they are intended for and for general use, not targeted towards any specific activity. If you rock crawl shocks don’t matter as much as got fast. Go fast can be in the desert where you want something that moves quick to keep the tires on the ground to maintain control meaning more fluid passing through.

What is nice about higher end shocks is you can spec the valving how you want or they may offer the same shock measurements with several valve specs to choose from.

With leaf springs you will want a larger orifice then a coiled vehicle, normally lower number in the shock spec.

For my yj kit I spec bilstien 33-104645 shocks front and rear. This is because it had the specific valving needed. I could care less what the brand is but bilstien is the most inexpensive shock company that actually list valving spec. That’s why they are popular and associated with better ride quality. A lot of aftermarket parts suppliers like myself don’t want to/can’t have custom shocks made but can find affordable bilstien that fits the application for the intended use of the target consumer.


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[BDRAG]

My concern would be the caliper banjo bolt contacting shock. You may have to dial out the steering stop and limit the already terrible turning radius even more.

View attachment 7373


One of the nice things about the bilstiens is that they are inverted so the shaft side goes down and there is no metal shaft shield so you can dial the steering stop in and get a few more degrees out of the steering without making shock contact.

What matters more then the brand is valving. In reality most shocks are manufactured by Kayaba corporation (KYB) and rebranded. Even recognizable “name brand” shocks are KYB. Hell the factory mahindra shocks are KYB.

What matters the valve spec. Basic Shocks are simple, a viscous fluid passing through an orifice. One for compression and then back through the rebound side. Most basic shocks do not list a valve spec they are optimized for the vehicle they are intended for and for general use, not targeted towards any specific activity. If you rock crawl shocks don’t matter as much as got fast. Go fast can be in the desert where you want something that moves quick to keep the tires on the ground to maintain control meaning more fluid passing through.

What is nice about higher end shocks is you can spec the valving how you want or they may offer the same shock measurements with several valve specs to choose from.

With leaf springs you will want a larger orifice then a coiled vehicle, normally lower number in the shock spec.

For my yj kit I spec bilstien 33-104645 shocks front and rear. This is because it had the specific valving needed. I could care less what the brand is but bilstien is the most inexpensive shock company that actually list valving spec. That’s why they are popular and associated with better ride quality. A lot of aftermarket parts suppliers like myself don’t want to/can’t have custom shocks made but can find affordable bilstien that fits the application for the intended use of the target consumer.


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Again Max, your knowlage is wide ranging. I just did a 50 mile street loop. I'll go out and si if I bent them. Lol. It drove great at 65 mph. Steady as a rock. It handles the street bumps great. It will be a month or so before I get it back to the land for a bumpy road test.

BDRAG

 

[BDRAG]

My concern would be the caliper banjo bolt contacting shock. You may have to dial out the steering stop and limit the already terrible turning radius even more.

View attachment 7373


One of the nice things about the bilstiens is that they are inverted so the shaft side goes down and there is no metal shaft shield so you can dial the steering stop in and get a few more degrees out of the steering without making shock contact.

What matters more then the brand is valving. In reality most shocks are manufactured by Kayaba corporation (KYB) and rebranded. Even recognizable “name brand” shocks are KYB. Hell the factory mahindra shocks are KYB.

What matters the valve spec. Basic Shocks are simple, a viscous fluid passing through an orifice. One for compression and then back through the rebound side. Most basic shocks do not list a valve spec they are optimized for the vehicle they are intended for and for general use, not targeted towards any specific activity. If you rock crawl shocks don’t matter as much as got fast. Go fast can be in the desert where you want something that moves quick to keep the tires on the ground to maintain control meaning more fluid passing through.

What is nice about higher end shocks is you can spec the valving how you want or they may offer the same shock measurements with several valve specs to choose from.

With leaf springs you will want a larger orifice then a coiled vehicle, normally lower number in the shock spec.

For my yj kit I spec bilstien 33-104645 shocks front and rear. This is because it had the specific valving needed. I could care less what the brand is but bilstien is the most inexpensive shock company that actually list valving spec. That’s why they are popular and associated with better ride quality. A lot of aftermarket parts suppliers like myself don’t want to/can’t have custom shocks made but can find affordable bilstien that fits the application for the intended use of the target consumer.


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Max, my turn stops are so far out, I have 3/4 inch clearance between the banjo and shock full lock. Now that's on flat ground. Is it going to be closer under articulation? That's a question for you.

BDRAG

 

[txroadkill]

Flex it out. The banjo bolt shock clearance is lessened under articulatio and full wheel turn. It’s why those who adjust the stops say no problems then they wheel it and have problems.

 

[Colderweather86]

What is the mounting stud size needed for correct fitment?

 

[BDRAG]

What is the mounting stud size needed for correct fitment?

I think the hole in the ends of the shocks are 5/8 dia. Pull one and measure. Lol. It saves your butt at times.

BDRAG

 

[BDRAG]

My concern would be the caliper banjo bolt contacting shock. You may have to dial out the steering stop and limit the already terrible turning radius even more.

View attachment 7373


One of the nice things about the bilstiens is that they are inverted so the shaft side goes down and there is no metal shaft shield so you can dial the steering stop in and get a few more degrees out of the steering without making shock contact.

What matters more then the brand is valving. In reality most shocks are manufactured by Kayaba corporation (KYB) and rebranded. Even recognizable “name brand” shocks are KYB. Hell the factory mahindra shocks are KYB.

What matters the valve spec. Basic Shocks are simple, a viscous fluid passing through an orifice. One for compression and then back through the rebound side. Most basic shocks do not list a valve spec they are optimized for the vehicle they are intended for and for general use, not targeted towards any specific activity. If you rock crawl shocks don’t matter as much as got fast. Go fast can be in the desert where you want something that moves quick to keep the tires on the ground to maintain control meaning more fluid passing through.

What is nice about higher end shocks is you can spec the valving how you want or they may offer the same shock measurements with several valve specs to choose from.

With leaf springs you will want a larger orifice then a coiled vehicle, normally lower number in the shock spec.

For my yj kit I spec bilstien 33-104645 shocks front and rear. This is because it had the specific valving needed. I could care less what the brand is but bilstien is the most inexpensive shock company that actually list valving spec. That’s why they are popular and associated with better ride quality. A lot of aftermarket parts suppliers like myself don’t want to/can’t have custom shocks made but can find affordable bilstien that fits the application for the intended use of the target consumer.


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So Max, you and txroadkill say go try it. So me being a lazy f er, I never plan on disconnecting the sway bar. Don't plan on beating it on big rocky trails . So if I do not disconnect the sway bar, that will help to not contact the brake lines correct? Lol.

BDRAG

 

[Max A.]

Correct, you may be fine.


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[BDRAG]

Correct, you may be fine.


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Yippie! Lol.

BDRAG

 

[Chris Beyer]

My concern would be the caliper banjo bolt contacting shock. You may have to dial out the steering stop and limit the already terrible turning radius even more.

View attachment 7373


One of the nice things about the bilstiens is that they are inverted so the shaft side goes down and there is no metal shaft shield so you can dial the steering stop in and get a few more degrees out of the steering without making shock contact.

I have the issue with the shock body and the banjo bolt. I thought I could solve it by inverting the shock. I cut the shield tube off the shaft side and mounted it with the shaft side down. All is good until the suspension approaches full flex, at which point the shock body will contact the banjo bolt, potentially shearing it off. As brake failure is higher on my list of cons than turning radius I decided I'll run it in the stock position and be more conservative with the steering stops. I may try moving the shock to the front side of the axle, using the stud for the sway bar link and welding on a new shock tower. This would probably happen in conjunction with a long travel spring conversion, which is on the list for this winter, depending on manufacturer availability...

 

[Max A.]

I have the issue with the shock body and the banjo bolt. I thought I could solve it by inverting the shock. I cut the shield tube off the shaft side and mounted it with the shaft side down. All is good until the suspension approaches full flex, at which point the shock body will contact the banjo bolt, potentially shearing it off. As brake failure is higher on my list of cons than turning radius I decided I'll run it in the stock position and be more conservative with the steering stops. I may try moving the shock to the front side of the axle, using the stud for the sway bar link and welding on a new shock tower. This would probably happen in conjunction with a long travel spring conversion, which is on the list for this winter, depending on manufacturer availability...

Not sure if that’ll work with the “Max Travel” kit. Forward shackles means the axle will swing forward under compression. With the long travel kit it has 10-12 inches of up and down so there is a lot of swing forward with compression. The cool part it I designed it so there is little to no drive shaft growth. As it moves through the travel.


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