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35” tire clearance question. Backspace

Briansfarmingvideos

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Hey everyone I’m upgrading to some 35x12.50x15 STT pros and flat fenders this spring. I was wondering if a 3” backspace would give me good clearance without needing spacers.
 

CJ2Rox

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Hey everyone I’m upgrading to some 35x12.50x15 STT pros and flat fenders this spring. I was wondering if a 3” backspace would give me good clearance without needing spacers.
Hey man I watch your You Tube channel, didn't know you were here. I don't know the answer to your question but you can adjust the turning radius bolt so it don't hit the leaf spring. Plenty of owners here to answer that question. I upgraded to 235 85 16s and I run alittle turning left thats also with the level kit. I adjusted the bolt about 1/4 and took care of that
 
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CJ2Rox

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From what I can tell both you and your dad's Roxs are not lifted right?
 

txroadkill

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I’m running OTR level springs and a Cecco body lift. On 33-12.50s with wheels that have a 2.5” backspace. Have no issues with rubbing. I’m still running the stock steering stop specs.


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Wm435

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I’m running OTR level springs and a Cecco body lift. On 33-12.50s with wheels that have a 2.5” backspace. Have no issues with rubbing. I’m still running the stock steering stop specs.


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You think a leveling kit and a 2.5" backspace front and rear is enough to run 35×11.5 without rubbing?
 

txroadkill

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You think a leveling kit and a 2.5" backspace front and rear is enough to run 35×11.5 without rubbing?
Nope. I had a level lift, longer shackles and a 1” body lift plus some bumpstops I fabbed up. Without the bumpstops the 33s would have hit the body on full stuff. No way you’ll clear 35s and be able to go off road without risk of rubbing/body damage.

I’m now on the climax max travel suspension with 2.5RE springs and again made bumpstops to prevent tire contact at full stuff. I orginally went to the 2.5bs wheels to allow me to drove over the fenders on my trailer. Tires just barely fit with only about 1.5” on each fender. I’m gonna eventually go to 35s and when I do I’m changing my backspacing as I think I might be able to get the 35s to clear the sheet metal in the rear on a narrower Track width. If it doesn’t work then I’m cutting sheet metal. My current setup if I had 35s might be fine in the front but would definitely make contact at the lower rear fenders.
 

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Nope. I had a level lift, longer shackles and a 1” body lift plus some bumpstops I fabbed up. Without the bumpstops the 33s would have hit the body on full stuff. No way you’ll clear 35s and be able to go off road without risk of rubbing/body damage.

I’m now on the climax max travel suspension with 2.5RE springs and again made bumpstops to prevent tire contact at full stuff. I orginally went to the 2.5bs wheels to allow me to drove over the fenders on my trailer. Tires just barely fit with only about 1.5” on each fender. I’m gonna eventually go to 35s and when I do I’m changing my backspacing as I think I might be able to get the 35s to clear the sheet metal in the rear on a narrower Track width. If it doesn’t work then I’m cutting sheet metal. My current setup if I had 35s might be fine in the front but would definitely make contact at the lower rear fenders.
Doing things the right way and with the least modifications, how would you best recommend I run 35×11.5×16r tires without rubbing? I'm determined to get 35s
 

txroadkill

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Will you be wheeling it and if so on what?
 

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Will you be wheeling it and if so on what?
It's a every day driver for me, in Roxor I trust. It's 9 out of 10 times going to be on pavement. My soon to be second roxor will be 100% on pavement.

My biggest concern is if there would be rubbing on full lock and / or how much turning radius will I lose? I'm use to driving 33-11.5 tires so I know already how bad it is.

I wasn't certain if 35s would be any significant increase in lost of turning radius, or rubbing with 35-11.5???
 

txroadkill

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Current set up measure everything and add 1” and you’ll be ballpark with 35s.
 

txroadkill

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You said you had 33 11.50s. Just add an inch all around your tire and that will be approximately where a 35 would be. So if at full stuff/lock you have less than an inch of clearance then 35s will probably rub.
 

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You said you had 33 11.50s. Just add an inch all around your tire and that will be approximately where a 35 would be. So if at full stuff/lock you have less than an inch of clearance then 35s will probably rub.
Thank you sir
 

Wm435

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You said you had 33 11.50s. Just add an inch all around your tire and that will be approximately where a 35 would be. So if at full stuff/lock you have less than an inch of clearance then 35s will probably rub.
This may sound silly to ask but does the 16 inch oem roxor rim have any offset in them?

I was wondering if I replace my spacers with 4 inch offset if it gives me a little more wiggle room to not rub as much with 35-11.5 tires, as opposed to 2-inch spacers
 

USMC

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Wm, here are the photos of the bumper spacers that I added for my 35 inch tires. With the tires straight ahead I have 4 inches of space between the bumper and the tire. I wanted to keep my OEM bumper.

These are 4" x 6" x 1", with three on each side. I chose that make up in case I wanted to go with smaller tires and move the bumper back in in increments. I didn't use aluminum because I didn't want the differences in metal causing additional corrosion issues.

I paid $150.00 for this steel. I think if you had twelve 4" x 2 x 1" it would be easier to install them. It was a pain in the A$$ to get the bolts aligned with the frame nuts. I also went full steel for a solid support. If you do this have a metal shop drill them with using your shackles for the guide.



20241112_155758.jpg 20241112_155824.jpg 20241112_155907.jpg
 
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Wm435

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Wm, here are the photos of the bumper spacers that I added for my 35 inch tires. With the tires straight ahead I have 4 inches of space between the bumper and the tire. I wanted to keep my OEM bumper.

These are 4" x 6" x 1", with three on each side. I chose that make up in case I wanted to go with smaller tires and move the bumper back in in increments. I didn't use aluminum because I didn't want the differences in metal causing additional corrosion issues.

I paid $150.00 for this steel. I think if you had twelve 4" x 2 x 1" it would be easier to install them. It was a pain in the A$$ to get the bolts aligned with the frame nuts. I also went full steel for a solid support. If you do this have a metal shop drill them with using your shackles for the guide.



View attachment 14277 View attachment 14278 View attachment 14279
I initially ordered 2 blocks of 3 inch thick steel. Too thick for a regular drill press. I used a steel hollow tube for my bumper spacer at the end of the day.

Now I have 200 dollars worth of steel laying around
 
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