For those of you who don't need or want a rough dash, here's what it looks like painted, like CJs. The windshield interior brackets required a new hole drilled through the dash and the panel behind it (make sure you're far enough from the upper edge that there's room for the nut to fit back there all around the hole). Local paint shop did it for $100. Be careful pulling out all the things installed on the dash, but nothing was difficult. You have to cut the shrink wrap on the cigarette lighter port's backside. I used new stainless steel hardware, added washers, and used Loctite 243 (blue, medium) on everything as usual. Add dielectric grease on all the electrical fittings before reassembly.
Conveniently in this photo you can also see how much shorter the CJ7 windshield is than the Roxor's roll bar (4 inches). I chose to paint the stainless steel windshield hinges and brackets to match, although some folks prefer the look of polished stainless steel.
As you can see, the grab bar won't mount easily if you use the CJ7 windshield interior bracket--the upper right hole is blocked. One person on this forum just used the dash's original lower holes as the new upper holes, requiring you to drill two additional holes as the new bottom holes. That approach is weaker than the original set of holes, because it's the original upper holes which have the thick metal backing, whereas the original lower holes are just through the thinner dash and mostly for stability, not strength.
When you remove the dash you'll notice a black sticky stripe of rubbery stuff along the edge, where the dash presses against the body. You can buy it here https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01G382DX4/?tag=roxor-20 for cheap. I think it prevents rattling between these two flat surfaces, although I'd rather not install it twice, so I just put it in there to be safe. I used the 1/2 inch width several places on the Roxor, but 3/4 or 1-inch width would be better if you're just installing it on this part (or double-up the 1/2 inch).
Conveniently in this photo you can also see how much shorter the CJ7 windshield is than the Roxor's roll bar (4 inches). I chose to paint the stainless steel windshield hinges and brackets to match, although some folks prefer the look of polished stainless steel.
As you can see, the grab bar won't mount easily if you use the CJ7 windshield interior bracket--the upper right hole is blocked. One person on this forum just used the dash's original lower holes as the new upper holes, requiring you to drill two additional holes as the new bottom holes. That approach is weaker than the original set of holes, because it's the original upper holes which have the thick metal backing, whereas the original lower holes are just through the thinner dash and mostly for stability, not strength.
When you remove the dash you'll notice a black sticky stripe of rubbery stuff along the edge, where the dash presses against the body. You can buy it here https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01G382DX4/?tag=roxor-20 for cheap. I think it prevents rattling between these two flat surfaces, although I'd rather not install it twice, so I just put it in there to be safe. I used the 1/2 inch width several places on the Roxor, but 3/4 or 1-inch width would be better if you're just installing it on this part (or double-up the 1/2 inch).
