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Painted dash

General

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For those of you who don't need or want a rough dash, here's what it looks like painted, like CJs. The windshield interior brackets required a new hole drilled through the dash and the panel behind it (make sure you're far enough from the upper edge that there's room for the nut to fit back there all around the hole). Local paint shop did it for $100. Be careful pulling out all the things installed on the dash, but nothing was difficult. You have to cut the shrink wrap on the cigarette lighter port's backside. I used new stainless steel hardware, added washers, and used Loctite 243 (blue, medium) on everything as usual. Add dielectric grease on all the electrical fittings before reassembly.

Conveniently in this photo you can also see how much shorter the CJ7 windshield is than the Roxor's roll bar (4 inches). I chose to paint the stainless steel windshield hinges and brackets to match, although some folks prefer the look of polished stainless steel.

As you can see, the grab bar won't mount easily if you use the CJ7 windshield interior bracket--the upper right hole is blocked. One person on this forum just used the dash's original lower holes as the new upper holes, requiring you to drill two additional holes as the new bottom holes. That approach is weaker than the original set of holes, because it's the original upper holes which have the thick metal backing, whereas the original lower holes are just through the thinner dash and mostly for stability, not strength.

When you remove the dash you'll notice a black sticky stripe of rubbery stuff along the edge, where the dash presses against the body. You can buy it here https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01G382DX4/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 for cheap. I think it prevents rattling between these two flat surfaces, although I'd rather not install it twice, so I just put it in there to be safe. I used the 1/2 inch width several places on the Roxor, but 3/4 or 1-inch width would be better if you're just installing it on this part (or double-up the 1/2 inch).

20181231_145006.jpg
 

Campyman

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I’m not sure if people realized how much shorter the cj windows are and that’s why I’m sticking with the roxor rollbar abd window. I like how others have painted the factory window to match the body. Now I’m interested in painting the dash too
 

jrobz23

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Lookin' good General.

I'm not changing much until a decent full enclosure comes out since that will dictate the major mods to windshield and rollbar for me. So far, I've been strangely patient on this for once.
 

toolsinaction

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For those of you who don't need or want a rough dash, here's what it looks like painted, like CJs. The windshield interior brackets required a new hole drilled through the dash and the panel behind it (make sure you're far enough from the upper edge that there's room for the nut to fit back there all around the hole). Local paint shop did it for $100. Be careful pulling out all the things installed on the dash, but nothing was difficult. You have to cut the shrink wrap on the cigarette lighter port's backside. I used new stainless steel hardware, added washers, and used Loctite 243 (blue, medium) on everything as usual. Add dielectric grease on all the electrical fittings before reassembly.

Conveniently in this photo you can also see how much shorter the CJ7 windshield is than the Roxor's roll bar (4 inches). I chose to paint the stainless steel windshield hinges and brackets to match, although some folks prefer the look of polished stainless steel.

As you can see, the grab bar won't mount easily if you use the CJ7 windshield interior bracket--the upper right hole is blocked. One person on this forum just used the dash's original lower holes as the new upper holes, requiring you to drill two additional holes as the new bottom holes. That approach is weaker than the original set of holes, because it's the original upper holes which have the thick metal backing, whereas the original lower holes are just through the thinner dash and mostly for stability, not strength.

When you remove the dash you'll notice a black sticky stripe of rubbery stuff along the edge, where the dash presses against the body. You can buy it here https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01G382DX4/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 for cheap. I think it prevents rattling between these two flat surfaces, although I'd rather not install it twice, so I just put it in there to be safe. I used the 1/2 inch width several places on the Roxor, but 3/4 or 1-inch width would be better if you're just installing it on this part (or double-up the 1/2 inch).

View attachment 2390
Hi general,

Can I ask where you got the gasket for the CJ windshield and what part number? I got one for a CJ but it seems way to big.

Thanks
 

jrobz23

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Walcks has em. I got one from him for my 57
 

General

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Here's the one I got. Jeep Seals | Cowl Seals | Morris 4x4 Center | 5453950 Some folks say it's a few millimeters off in a few areas. Mine needed a little trimming to get the two ends into their spots. I also had to push/pull it a little to get the bottom alignment holes to line up. Then I had to cut small sections off to get the hinges and the interior brackets to mount flush. It looks great from the front, but from the interior there's a little more space than I wager is best. There's not too many options out there, but this Fairchild product was cheap and worked ok enough. The product material was good quality, just not sure the measurements are exact (like most of these reproduction CJ parts, especially the windshield frames).
 
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