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Instrument Cluster Delete

Gribbnator

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Hello, First post here- Recently bought a 2018 with a destroyed instrument cluster (looks like the previous owner smashed it with a hammer), and after an exhaustive amount of homework it looks like a replacement is near impossible to source, so my plan was to replace the totally dead instrument cluster with a mechanical Autometer quad gauge (LINK) and also run a OBD-2 ran instrument display to get everything else (LINK2), the install for the mechanical gauge is straightforward but the only concern I have is the "Alternator wont charge w/o the OEM gauge issue- My plan is to take wire 123, from Pin 5 of the Cluster A plug and run it to wire 147 of pin 3 of the keyed switched power, as it seems the alternator needs that as an exciter and on the switched ignition circuit it shouldn't drain the battery when off

I was wondering if anybody knows a reason why that wont work?


am I missing anything else? or am I not thinking of anything I will need to delete the OEM instrument cluster?
 
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Barnboy

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I hope you figure this out. It sounds like we all may have failures in the future. I would like to see something aftermarket with a speedometer that goes past 60
 

WhistlePig

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As far as the alternator not charging with the gauge cluster removed goes, I can verify that is incorrect. I got water in my cluster and unplugged it to dry it out. I drove it on many short trips for a couple days, and my battery stayed charged. I hooked up an obdii scanner, and got a running voltage of 13.4-13.6 with the cluster disconnected.
 

Colderweather86

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I really like this idea. Anyone happen to know the diameter of the hole for the OEM speedometer?
 

Ridem32

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Hello, First post here- Recently bought a 2018 with a destroyed instrument cluster (looks like the previous owner smashed it with a hammer), and after an exhaustive amount of homework it looks like a replacement is near impossible to source, so my plan was to replace the totally dead instrument cluster with a mechanical Autometer quad gauge (LINK) and also run a OBD-2 ran instrument display to get everything else (LINK2), the install for the mechanical gauge is straightforward but the only concern I have is the "Alternator wont charge w/o the OEM gauge issue- My plan is to take wire 123, from Pin 5 of the Cluster A plug and run it to wire 147 of pin 3 of the keyed switched power, as it seems the alternator needs that as an exciter and on the switched ignition circuit it shouldn't drain the battery when off

I was wondering if anybody knows a reason why that wont work?


am I missing anything else? or am I not thinking of anything I will need to delete the OEM instrument cluster?

I have question for you. If it’s drivable like it is. Do you have the engine clatter at 40 mph as they all do? I think the speedo triggers it to dump raw fuel causing the clatter due to emissions. Please let us know after you swap over your cluster


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Colderweather86

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I have question for you. If it’s drivable like it is. Do you have the engine clatter at 40 mph as they all do? I think the speedo triggers it to dump raw fuel causing the clatter due to emissions. Please let us know after you swap over your cluster


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The clatter is the overhead adjustment. You need to run your valves. A lot of Roxor's were out of adjustment from the factory.
 

WhistlePig

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The clatter is the overhead adjustment. You need to run your valves. A lot of Roxor's were out of adjustment from the factory.
Don't take this to mean adjusting valve clearance isn't an important maintenance task. There is definitely something electronically controlled that causes the 40mph clatter. I think it's only certain machines that do it because it is so obvious when it happens, you wouldn't be able to miss it. 3rd, 4th, or 5th exactly at 40mph it gets way louder. Slow down to 39mph quiet again. It's so reliable I've come to use it to gauge my speed without looking at the speedometer. It happens with the speedometer unplugged as well. I believe I remember reading someone with an 18 said it did not happen with the vehicle speed sensor unplugged. I've never tried it myself to know for sure.
 

Colderweather86

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I don't have the noise on my 2020. My dad didn't have it on his 2019 Automatic either
 

WhistlePig

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I've always wondered if it had something to do with emissions testing, kinda like the Volkswagen scandal. I don't know if there is such thing as emissions testing on utvs anywhere, but I bet if it's a thing it never happens above 40mph. I bought mine in Central Montana which is on the way to California from Michigan. Maybe it has to do with the geographic area it is being shipped to from the factory? It seems like something anyone doing tuning would likely stumble across and maybe have some insight. On that note, I've had a tune since it left the dealer, so maybe it might be something in the tuning? Does anyone have the 40mph clatter with stock tunes?
 

GiStore

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Its painful to see such a small cluster creating headache for so many,Pls check the attached speedo & other stuff in Mahuindra Thar ,If these can resolve your concern let me know i can arrange same at very reasonable cost

Cluster.jpg Cluster2.jpg Thar Cluster.jpg
 

GiStore

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This attached picture is for Thar 2nd Generation cluster

Thar 2nd Gen Cluster.jpg
 

Ridem32

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Mine had the clatter when it was brand new. After diesel freaks tune ran lots better but still have the clatter at 40mph. It’s definitely raw fuel being dumped into it. If we knew which wire was triggering it we could bypass it. I have heard several people say with speed sensor unplugged it does not clatter anymore. I thought it would be a wire coming from the speedo cluster. But it could be a wire coming from the speed sensor going to the Ecu. I really need to find out I do not like the noise.


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Kinetixrcr

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Hello, First post here- Recently bought a 2018 with a destroyed instrument cluster (looks like the previous owner smashed it with a hammer), and after an exhaustive amount of homework it looks like a replacement is near impossible to source, so my plan was to replace the totally dead instrument cluster with a mechanical Autometer quad gauge (LINK) and also run a OBD-2 ran instrument display to get everything else (LINK2), the install for the mechanical gauge is straightforward but the only concern I have is the "Alternator wont charge w/o the OEM gauge issue- My plan is to take wire 123, from Pin 5 of the Cluster A plug and run it to wire 147 of pin 3 of the keyed switched power, as it seems the alternator needs that as an exciter and on the switched ignition circuit it shouldn't drain the battery when off

I was wondering if anybody knows a reason why that wont work?


am I missing anything else? or am I not thinking of anything I will need to delete the OEM instrument cluster?
The l terminal is what is connected to the cluster. It's designed to light a warning lamp. If you connect it straight to power you may damage your alternator. If you don't want a lamp, run it through a diode and a resistor first.
 
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Kinetixrcr

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I have question for you. If it’s drivable like it is. Do you have the engine clatter at 40 mph as they all do? I think the speedo triggers it to dump raw fuel causing the clatter due to emissions. Please let us know after you swap over your cluster


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The speedo has no control of engine function. It is essentially a read only device.
 
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