2019 ROXOR CLASSIC II ELETRICAL ISSUES

[TRISTAN]

Having an issue with my Rotor. It will not crank. I do not hear a fuel pump nor does the digital part on the cluster work. I have confirmed that there is no ground going to the fuel relay under hood or the starter relay under the hood. when I jump those 2 to ground it will then crank and the pump comes on but will not start due to the injectors not pulsing I believe. Any insight on what to do would be much appreciated. When I jump the fuel relay and turn the key the pump comes on but will not turn off until I take away the ground. The cluster lights up but the screen that shows the odo is not lit and the needle does not move when first turning the key. Please provide any ideas as I need this thing fixed. Thanks in advance!

 

[txroadkill]

Did you check all the fuses including those under the passenger side dash?

 

[TRISTAN]

Did you check all the fuses including those under the passenger side dash?

yes all of the fuses are good. I replaced the ECU and got the machine to crank but no start. The lift pump is not coming on nor is there anything at the injectors.

 

[Hummingbird Ranch]

Really sounds like you have lost your engine, and possibly chassis ground as well. Locate both the engine ground strap and chassis ground strap, and verify that the fasteners at each end are tight and that there is no corrosion or damage to the straps. Check you negative battery clamp, and ensure it is also tight with no corrosion and check the negative battery cable from clamp to end termination and look for swelling or corrosion. You likely have one or more very poor main grounds. I have seen battery cables completely corroded inside the insulation, and the only way to tell was to cut back the insulation from the battery terminal. The cable was so corroded that it could not carry the high starting current to spin the starter but could carry enough to burn the headlights, and engage the starter solenoid.

 

[txroadkill]

Check that ground on the passenger side inside the tub just under the fuses. Seem to remember someone here having an issue and tracked it down to that.

 

[TRISTAN]

Ive check all grounds with a multimeter as well as a test light and all seem to be grounded? Any other way to test grounds?

 

[Hummingbird Ranch]

That is why I did not mention wasting your time with a multimeter or test light on the main engine or chassis grounds, as a ground that is bad, (can't carry a heavy load), will always test good with a test light or multimeter, showing continuity (assuming it is not fully open), because it is grounded good enough for the milliamp current of the test lights and multimeters, but not good enough to carry starter loads or maybe even starter solenoid loads, that is why you could have a weak ground that will not spin your starter, but will allow your headlights to burn. Unless you have some high end equipment that can test your grounds under loads, a good physical and visual inspection looking for loose ground fasteners or corrosion in the cable itself or end points is your best bet.

You stated that you provided an alternate ground path for your starter relay and fuel pump relay and then you were able to crank the engine and hear the fuel pump run. This means that your starter relay and fuel pump relay are poorly grounded or not grounded at all. Inspect the ground paths for your starter relay and fuel pump relay and locate either the open ground or the weak ground. If you have a fully open ground path, your multimeter and test light will show those for you, and may help you pinpoint the bad section of cable/harness or connector that is either not fully seated or potentially has a pushed out pin.

 

[TRISTAN]

That is why I did not mention wasting your time with a multimeter or test light on the main engine or chassis grounds, as a ground that is bad, (can't carry a heavy load), will always test good with a test light or multimeter, showing continuity (assuming it is not fully open), because it is grounded good enough for the milliamp current of the test lights and multimeters, but not good enough to carry starter loads or maybe even starter solenoid loads, that is why you could have a weak ground that will not spin your starter, but will allow your headlights to burn. Unless you have some high end equipment that can test your grounds under loads, a good physical and visual inspection looking for loose ground fasteners or corrosion in the cable itself or end points is your best bet.

You stated that you provided an alternate ground path for your starter relay and fuel pump relay and then you were able to crank the engine and hear the fuel pump run. This means that your starter relay and fuel pump relay are poorly grounded or not grounded at all. Inspect the ground paths for your starter relay and fuel pump relay and locate either the open ground or the weak ground. If you have a fully open ground path, your multimeter and test light will show those for you, and may help you pinpoint the bad section of cable/harness or connector that is either not fully seated or potentially has a pushed out pin.

I have tested continuity from the ground pin at both relays to the ECU where they go and it is good yet does not have ground. I have tested the 2 ground wires at the ECU and both have ground. If I ground the fuel relay manually I also notice that it does not prime and turn off, yet it continuously stays on and while cranking still no injector pulse.

 

[txroadkill]

Check your relays as well. I’ve had them work with a test light but not have a good enough connection to hold a load. So as soon as I out a load on them they went back to open.

 

[Hummingbird Ranch]

I agree with txroadkill. I have also seen sticking and intermittent relays as well. If you could replace those relays, or maybe swap them with other like relays from other circuits and see if your starter now works or other circuit now fails, that would point to the relays being bad. Another thing I would do is unfasten the ECU from the body and verify that the contact surfaces on the bottom of the ECU around the fasteners and the mating contact surfaces on the body are free of corrosion and then reattach the ECU. Most ECUs still also ground to the body through the attaching fasteners, even if they have dedicated ground contacts in the connectors. Sometimes ECUs make and break grounds in certain circuits, instead of making and breaking the hot side. If swapped or new relays do not resolve problem, and ECU is cleanly grounded to body thru attaching fasteners, I would begin to suspect the ECU is bad. I have had ECUs and ignition modules go bad. It would really be nice if you had another ECU you could swap to see if the ECU is the problem.