Loosing coolant

[retone6]

So I was loosing coolant no leaks nothing so I thought EGR cooler so did a EGR delete! But I notice I’m still loosing very small amounts of coolant!!!! No leaks anywhere and exhaust doesn’t smell like ATF…….

 

[txroadkill]

I noticed some on mine but it was coming from the heater hose and a loose clamp. Check all your hose connections perhaps one has a small weep due to a clamp. How many hours/miles? Could also be an air bubble from factory finally working it’s way out.

 

[retone6]

I noticed some on mine but it was coming from the heater hose and a loose clamp. Check all your hose connections perhaps one has a small weep due to a clamp. How many hours/miles? Could also be an air bubble from factory finally working it’s way out.

42K 2019 Roxor

 

[txroadkill]

I’d say that rules out the air pocket theory. Check around your water pump. I wonder if it’s seeping there.

 

[CJ2Rox]

So mine did that and it was actually I didn't have the cap on correctly.

 

[retone6]

@retone6: does your machine have an aftermarket heater installed? Probably not since you didn’t mention it.

You mention that the exhaust doesn’t smell like ATF. Automotive transmission fluid…. After reading your post again ATF = antifreeze?

How much is the antifreeze dropping in the overflow? Over what time / how many miles?

If antifreeze into the engine, the oil would look like a milk shake. Or, if the Roxor sits long enough for the water and oil to separate, water would come out first on an oil change (then the oil)

as Cj2Rox said, you may have a leaking radiator cap.

49K miles? That is probably the highest mileage posted on this forum!

Yep I realized I made a mistake I meant too say coolant but had a ATF bottle in front of me? I’m at 43K and very little, I did check oil oil looks good and I tighten everything up!!! Water pump looks fine, cap been replaced that was the first thing that happen too me when I bought my Roxor I had a bad cap!

 

[retone6]

I’m loosing like maybe a spoon TSP EVERY 2 weeks of coolant!!!

 

[retone6]

Are you driving the machine? Coolant will slowly evaporate as it heats up and expands from radiator to overflow bottle. The overflow is not a hermetically sealed system.

Yes it’s my daily driver 30 miles and that makes sense it’s getting too he 30 degees and lower here

 

[1BB]

Boy, those can be hard ones to figure out, even with a cooling system pressure tester. Troubleshooting is just a process of elimination, but we need to know some basic principles of operation.

You might have a very tiny leak in your head gasket, and it's getting into an oil passage, and since you drive it 30 miles a day, that oil heats up and burns off any tiny amount of water or coolant that gets into it. An engine generally has to run about 10 miles, before the oil gets to the point where it's hot enough, long enough to start burning off basic moisture build up like condensation, and longer if it's cold outside.

This is why city driving is so hard on vehicles, you're generally making short stop and go trips and your oil never really heats up to where it can boil out moisture. The constant warming up and cooling down is a perfect environment for condensation to form. The crankcase gets warm, and the hot air inside the crankcase expands, but the oil never gets hot enough, long enough, to burn off the moisture, so that moisture stays in the crankcase with the oil, but now the crankcase and oil cool down, and the air inside the crankcase cools and shrinks back down creating a slight vacuum and sucking in fresh air from the outside, and that fresh air has MORE moisture in it, and it's added to the moisture already in your crankcase, and the constant repeating of this process is how moisture builds up in an engines oil and crankcase with stop and go city driving. This gets MUCH worse the colder the weather gets outside.

If you continue to do this, the oil loses its ability to lubricate, especially with high compression engines like diesels, and you get engine wear. If you do a lot of city driving, try to get it out on the highway and stretch her legs for 20 or 30 miles a week to keep that water out of your oil. It doesn't take much to burn off water in oil and keep your lubricating system working properly.

I doubt it's getting into the cylinder, because as high of compression as a diesel has, coolant wouldn't be going into the cylinder at any point, due to a turbo FORCING air into the cylinder, and air on the compression stroke would be going into your cooling system, and on the power stroke again it would push gases into the cooling system, and any of these would get bad fast. It wouldn't take long before you'd lose enough compression that you'd be running on three cylinders, and you'd have no power at all.

If I was you, I'd throw in some Bars Leaks, the REAL stuff, not some cheap imitation. Most people don't know this, but all manufactures have been adding Bars Leaks to brand new vehicles during manufacturing, to head off any leaks, and they've been doing this for decades. It's also added to brand new military vehicles when they're being built.

The military even has an NSN for it. NSN = Nato Stock Number. NSN 8030-00-664-1406

I really don't think you have a big problem, and it's nothing that can't be fixed with Bars Leaks.

I remember one time a guy came in for a wheel alignment and while I was under his car, I seen he had a coolant leak from a CRACK in the block of his slant six Dodge. I went and got the guy and he said, oh yeah, it's been like that for a COUPLE YEARS. He said I just dump some Bars Leaks in it and it stops leaking for 5 or 6 months, and then I add more. He said..."That's the ONLY thing wrong with it".....the "ONLY" thing....lol I did NOT want to drive that thing after I did his wheel alignment, but you have to make sure it's right, and not pulling.

I'd go to Bars Leaks website and read what they have and see what fits your needs, or just call or write them. They'll help you out with the right product.

 

[retone6]

Boy, those can be hard ones to figure out, even with a cooling system pressure tester. Troubleshooting is just a process of elimination, but we need to know some basic principles of operation.

You might have a very tiny leak in your head gasket, and it's getting into an oil passage, and since you drive it 30 miles a day, that oil heats up and burns off any tiny amount of water or coolant that gets into it. An engine generally has to run about 10 miles, before the oil gets to the point where it's hot enough, long enough to start burning off basic moisture build up like condensation, and longer if it's cold outside.

This is why city driving is so hard on vehicles, you're generally making short stop and go trips and your oil never really heats up to where it can boil out moisture. The constant warming up and cooling down is a perfect environment for condensation to form. The crankcase gets warm, and the hot air inside the crankcase expands, but the oil never gets hot enough, long enough, to burn off the moisture, so that moisture stays in the crankcase with the oil, but now the crankcase and oil cool down, and the air inside the crankcase cools and shrinks back down creating a slight vacuum and sucking in fresh air from the outside, and that fresh air has MORE moisture in it, and it's added to the moisture already in your crankcase, and the constant repeating of this process is how moisture builds up in an engines oil and crankcase with stop and go city driving. This gets MUCH worse the colder the weather gets outside.

If you continue to do this, the oil loses its ability to lubricate, especially with high compression engines like diesels, and you get engine wear. If you do a lot of city driving, try to get it out on the highway and stretch her legs for 20 or 30 miles a week to keep that water out of your oil. It doesn't take much to burn off water in oil and keep your lubricating system working properly.

I doubt it's getting into the cylinder, because as high of compression as a diesel has, coolant wouldn't be going into the cylinder at any point, due to a turbo FORCING air into the cylinder, and air on the compression stroke would be going into your cooling system, and on the power stroke again it would push gases into the cooling system, and any of these would get bad fast. It wouldn't take long before you'd lose enough compression that you'd be running on three cylinders, and you'd have no power at all.

If I was you, I'd throw in some Bars Leaks, the REAL stuff, not some cheap imitation. Most people don't know this, but all manufactures have been adding Bars Leaks to brand new vehicles during manufacturing, to head off any leaks, and they've been doing this for decades. It's also added to brand new military vehicles when they're being built.

The military even has an NSN for it. NSN = Nato Stock Number. NSN 8030-00-664-1406

I really don't think you have a big problem, and it's nothing that can't be fixed with Bars Leaks.

I remember one time a guy came in for a wheel alignment and while I was under his car, I seen he had a coolant leak from a CRACK in the block of his slant six Dodge. I went and got the guy and he said, oh yeah, it's been like that for a COUPLE YEARS. He said I just dump some Bars Leaks in it and it stops leaking for 5 or 6 months, and then I add more. He said..."That's the ONLY thing wrong with it".....the "ONLY" thing....lol I did NOT want to drive that thing after I did his wheel alignment, but you have to make sure it's right, and not pulling.

I'd go to Bars Leaks website and read what they have and see what fits your needs, or just call or write them. They'll help you out with the right product.

Thank you sir I appreciate it I do travel 30 miles too work everyday on a highway with my Roxor!!! And I will most definitely look into bar leaks!!!!

 

[Barnboy]

Mine was doing that. I had to remove the lower radiator hose, seal and re-clamp + double clamp the lower hose. Nothing cracked, just tough to seal up for some reason. I used the old black gasket Shellac to seal my connection.