Seeing quite a few questions on here about locking hubs so I thought it would be helpful to provide a link below that really helped me understand what locking hubs do and don't do. Enjoy!
locking hubs - to lock or not to lock, how to use manual locking hubs
I read the above info and actually feel there are several inaccuracies. Biggest confusion comes from the term "locking hubs". More realistically they should be called "unlocking" hubs - and hear's why: A bone stock Roxor has what are commonly referred to as open differentials. Meaning just one side of a given axle provides traction. It's actually a 2wd vehicle because only one front wheel and one rear wheel supply traction. If you nail it on gravel in 2wd and go back and look at the tire marks you will notice only one wheel left marks indicating spinning, or traction. If you have aftermarket lockers, limited slip, or positraction (different names but same results) differential installed then both wheels will "spin out" meaning you have traction or "grip on both wheels". Lockers provide for the transfer of power from the wheels that "slip" to the wheels that "grip". These same principles also apply for the front diff.
Now regarding 'Locking hubs" ...... a guy named Warn developed front hub locks in the mid 1940's designed to fit all the surplus WW2 Jeeps that were being obtained for civilian use on paved roads. (4wd needs "loose" surface conditions IE: dirt, sand, snow, water to help eliminate excessive component wear and hard steering when being driven on hard surfaces. (another topic) So - what warn did was design a retrofit hub that would allow the front drive axle components to rotate freely without 4wd assist, turning a vehicle into a rear 2wd when the front hubs were "disengaged" or in the "free" position as indicated on the hub. Setting to the "lock" position simply returns the system to the original factory 4wd setting and does nothing to improve traction over the stock non - hub equipped vehicle when in 4wd. The advantages in the ability to unlock the original front diff: easier steering, less wear and drag on front axle components, less front tire wear and thus a small increase in fuel mileage. It is a difference you can actually feel when driving. Not installing Warn hubs will absolutely not change your 4wd performance from stock configuration in any way.
Depending on conditions however, and the way you most often use your vehicle then a form of locking differentials (you can do just rear, front or both) can make all the difference in obtaining ultimate traction when driving in SEVERE off road situations. Power is sent to both left and right rear wheels and both left and right front wheels equally
Two identical Roxors attempting the same run up a hill - One with hubs, one without: SAME RESULT (unless the guy with hubs forgets to put them in the "lock position)
Probably half of the guys that brag about having "locking hubs" don't even know what it means but guys with locking diffs know and appreciate the advantage with lockers during heavy duty off road performance when their in the Sh*t
Bottom Line: if you drive quite a bit on hard surface roads the hubs can be a good way to go...... If not - no big deal