My personal experience was only with the Lock-Rite lunchbox lockers I installed in the factory Dana 44 carriers. I loved them and they were flawless and bullet proof. My weakest link was a custom double cardan u-joint made for me by Arizona Driveline, that I broke when I had my front wheels turned pretty good and gave it too much throttle trying to climb out of a bunch of tall rocks. I chose the lock-Rite because back in the 90's when I was looking for lockers for my Dana 44 axles in my modified 88 Grand Wag, I was able to speak with a Jeep engineer who was working on their "new" at the time factory automatic locker. I was trying to see if I could get my hands on a couple, he told me they still had bugs in them and they would not slip properly in tight turns like in grocery store parking lots, and the tires would hop and chirp. He said they had tested many different lockers. He was also an off road enthusiast and had the Lock-Rites installed in his Jeep with Dana 44s, and recommended the Lock-Rite, as they were cheap, easy to install, and worked beautifully, and would handle anything that a Dana 44 could handle. I took his advice and loved them. Assuming you install them properly, which as I remember, was very easy. I installed mine with the carrier still installed. They performed beautifully both on road and off road. On road I had my front hubs opened with my Warn hubs so the front was never an issue. I could easily turn on pavement in a parking lot with wheels turned against the stops. The key is to unload the drive shaft when you want the locker to ratchet, and load the driveshaft when you want the locker to lock up. I would simply idle (automatic transmission) thru the turns in the parking lot and the rear locker would smoothly ratchet, sounded like your old craftsman 1/2 drive ratchet. I would not touch the throttle until I had come out the turn and the locker would instantly lock up. I never had any wheel hops or tire chirps. If you crowd it in a turn and force it to lock, then you will be binding the axles and get the wheel hops tire chirps. They also performed flawlessly off road in the rocks and in the mud, using the same technique to unload the driveshafts by idling thru sharp turns on hard ground where the tires could not simply slip. With a manual transmission you would simply roll into the turn, and depress the clutch thru the turn, and release the clutch after you came out of the turn. I considered the E-lockers, pneumatic lockers, and cable actuated lockers, but they all have one weakness, they rely on actuating a fork to engage/disengage the locker. I saw many folks using those, and they worked well until the cable, wire harness, or pneumatic line got snagged on some brush and was pulled loose, or the electric solenoid in the E-locker *hit out, or bellows or piston leaked on the pneumatic lockers. Also all of those replace your current open carrier, which means now you have to make a set of set-up bearings and trial and error the shim stack on each side of the new carrier while using Prussian Blue to get the contact pattern just right between the ring and pinion gears. I never had one bit of trouble with my Lock-Rites in my 88 Grand wag with Dana 44s. I don't know if they make any that will fit the 10 spline Roxor axles. I have already decided that if I have to put lockers in my 23 HDUV, it will be Lock-Rite, even if I have to upgrade the axles to 30 spline, which is probably a good idea anyway. Regardless of which locker you choose, as they all have their pros and cons, getting the installation right is critical for any of them to function properly. Most shops just don't give a *hit like you would, and will never perform multiple setups to get the contact patch correct. You would be lucky if they put the shims in the same place they found them from the factory. The best advice is do the install yourself and check the contact patch on your factory setup first to verify that it is right and you will at least have a place to start with the shim stack.