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Longer front shocks

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Picture is worth 999 words. If you're going to lift the front it an inch or two to clear 32-33 inch tires, this shock will sort of work. They're inexpensive, and with a 10-20% promo code you'll get free shipping and total around $80.

Yes, we all know that twin-tube shocks including this one are valved and lubricated for the body of the shock to be down and the piston to project upward, but the much larger diameter of the Pro Comp shock body compared to the Mahindra doesn't allow proper mounting orientation, because the shock body hits the end of the axle (right before the knuckle), and there's no easy way to modify it to fit. If you were motivated, you could make a new plate to hold the bottom shock mount (and hold the bolts below the leaf spring), making it any distance you like from the axle, thereby allowing correct orientation. There are a ton of shocks out there, but most thin-body designs will be much more expensive, monotube, remote reservoir, or valved for much heavier vehicles. If anyone finds a shock which is slightly longer than stock/OEM, please let us know!

I halfway recommend this product:
Pro: cheap, slightly longer, maybe slightly better ride quality we'll see.
Con: decreased life/performance due to inverted mounting orientation, not long enough if you're going to do a 3+ inch lift.

$42 each https://www.4wd.com/p/pro-comp-es3000-series-shock-absorber-322500/_/R-DFCW-322500
$4 each https://www.4wd.com/p/pro-comp-shock-boot-black-11127/_/R-DFCW-11127

Length (eye-to-eye, compressed-midpoint-extended):
Stock: 12.6 - 16.6 - 20.6
ES3000: 13.7 - 17.85 - 22.0
Original front ride height is 16.5 inches (near the midpoint of the stock shock).
My front ride height is 18.5 inches (add-a-leaf and re-arch springs), which is further from max extension using the ES3000 springs versus the OEM.

shocks 2.jpg
 

jrobz23

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What about a front shock for a lifted early CJ5 (55-71)?
 

Haerterich

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i used Bilstein 33-230443, no fit issue. max extend length of 22 1/2. you will need longer brake lines when you go to longer shocks.
IMG_3776.JPG
IMG_3778.JPG
IMG_3776.JPGIMG_3778.JPG
 
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General

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I really appreciate your data. Sounds like your shocks are a better fit. I'd say that a 2 inch front leaf spring lift probably wouldn't require longer brake lines, but beyond that would. I measured my eye-to-eye length with my new springs (2 inches higher than stock springs), and it's 19.5 inches when not carrying its own weight (on a lift). Someone said stock wheel travel is 4-5 inches, which makes sense given our other measurements. I tried to measure how far the stock brake lines could stretch, and I think it's about 20.5 inches (between shock bolts), which makes sense because that's the stock shock maximum extension.

For all you Roxor owners thinking of mildly lifting the front spring, I'd strongly recommend not going over 2.0 inches, not even 2.5, or else you'll need to start replacing other components like @Haerterich did. If the stock shock length (when resting on the ground) is increased from 16.5 (stock) to 18.5 (mine), it will extend +/- 2 inches under full travel, which will get very close to maximum brake line length--not something you want to break in the field! 1.5 inch leaf spring lift would be safest. With 2.0 inch spring lift in the front, I'm able to fit 33-inch (32.5") tires. without rubbing, no other adjustments needed.

These measurements suggest that adding 2 inches to the front springs to clear 33" tires won't require new brake lines or driveline modifications, but it would get very close to stock shock's maximum extension, which won't break anything, but you'll see decreased performance. After higher springs and bigger tires, I'd recommend getting longer (but not too fat) shocks like Haerterich did. I don't think Pro Comp's shocks would work from any CJ year, because they all use the same diameter shock body. Bilstein is a good brand.
 

Rolandwanders

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Rolandwanders

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Haerterich

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Any difference in ride quality when you went to the Bilsteins? Curious if it's worth the upgrade over stock.
With all i did to the suspension, yes the Blisteins improver the ride. 33-230443 are for the front and 33-230313 for the rear but this is with the lift i did. for stock height both of these may be to long for what you have. i know for sure on the front you will need longer brake lines. even with what i did the rear blake line seems OK.

Check this site for the correct length
Bilstein 5125 Offroad Shocks - Shockwarehouse.com
 

Haerterich

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I installed longer front brake lines. Spent a lot of time finding the right fittings but it worked out. To start out you will need longer lines when you install longer shocks. if you do the add a leaf and keep the stock shocks you are fine. Just a few measurements, the stock lines are 15 1/4 inch from the hard line to the banjo center, and the actually flex area between the crimps is 12 inch. I used three fittings and a 18 inch line, from hard line to center of banjo 20 3/4 inch, and between the crimps 15 1/4 inch. Well that was a little to long, had to twist the line to make an "s" curves so the lines will not rub on tire. That worked and i added 1 1/2 inch wheel spacers so all is well. However i delieve a 16 inch line would be better and have already ordered them for my sons Roxor, plan to lift his this week. The install is easy, first fitting goes right on the hard line and converts the male m10x1.00 thread and bubble flare to a female 3/8x 24 standard flare. Then you install the second fitting through the rigid frame mount, male 3/8x24 standard flare to a 3an male fitting. When i installed this fitting it was loose to the frame mount so i used one of the old banjo bolt crush washers to take up the extra room then the two fittings don't move around in the frame mount. the last fitting is a male 3an to the banjo bolt on the caliper, you should always use new crush washers. And last install flexible line. I bought the DOT approved lines. All in all turned out well cost just under $85, with the 16 inch lines should be about $75.

PARTS:
Crush washers, Earl's Performance, #EAR-177101ERL, $6.28 x1

Flare to 3an fitting, Russell Performance, #RUS-643961, $8.99 x1

Hard line adapter, Edelmann, #EDD-271300, $3.99 x 2

Banjo bolt fitting, Russell performance, #RUS-R4047C, $6.99 x 2

16 inch flex line, Russell performance, #RUS-656242, $14.99 x 2

18 inch flex line, Russell performance, #RUS-656042, $22.99 x 2 (this is what i used, 16 inch line should fit better)

You can get it all from SUMMIT RACING EQUIPMENT.

1 1/2 Iinch wheel spacers all four, GDSMOTU, #SPCR-0007, $69.99, Amazon.
For you guys planning on different rims, i have measured the stock rims, they have a offset of "0", So adding 1 1/2 inch wheel spacers is like a rim with -38mm offset. The point is negative offset moves the tire outward, offset is measured in mm.
 

Andydaniel1371

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I installed longer front brake lines. Spent a lot of time finding the right fittings but it worked out. To start out you will need longer lines when you install longer shocks. if you do the add a leaf and keep the stock shocks you are fine. Just a few measurements, the stock lines are 15 1/4 inch from the hard line to the banjo center, and the actually flex area between the crimps is 12 inch. I used three fittings and a 18 inch line, from hard line to center of banjo 20 3/4 inch, and between the crimps 15 1/4 inch. Well that was a little to long, had to twist the line to make an "s" curves so the lines will not rub on tire. That worked and i added 1 1/2 inch wheel spacers so all is well. However i delieve a 16 inch line would be better and have already ordered them for my sons Roxor, plan to lift his this week. The install is easy, first fitting goes right on the hard line and converts the male m10x1.00 thread and bubble flare to a female 3/8x 24 standard flare. Then you install the second fitting through the rigid frame mount, male 3/8x24 standard flare to a 3an male fitting. When i installed this fitting it was loose to the frame mount so i used one of the old banjo bolt crush washers to take up the extra room then the two fittings don't move around in the frame mount. the last fitting is a male 3an to the banjo bolt on the caliper, you should always use new crush washers. And last install flexible line. I bought the DOT approved lines. All in all turned out well cost just under $85, with the 16 inch lines should be about $75.

PARTS:
Crush washers, Earl's Performance, #EAR-177101ERL, $6.28 x1

Flare to 3an fitting, Russell Performance, #RUS-643961, $8.99 x1

Hard line adapter, Edelmann, #EDD-271300, $3.99 x 2

Banjo bolt fitting, Russell performance, #RUS-R4047C, $6.99 x 2

16 inch flex line, Russell performance, #RUS-656242, $14.99 x 2

18 inch flex line, Russell performance, #RUS-656042, $22.99 x 2 (this is what i used, 16 inch line should fit better)

You can get it all from SUMMIT RACING EQUIPMENT.

1 1/2 Iinch wheel spacers all four, GDSMOTU, #SPCR-0007, $69.99, Amazon.
For you guys planning on different rims, i have measured the stock rims, they have a offset of "0", So adding 1 1/2 inch wheel spacers is like a rim with -38mm offset. The point is negative offset moves the tire outward, offset is measured in mm.

Seeing it post after...
I went to a hydraulic shop to ask to make longer lines they barely looked n said they are fine.

But the 4wd shop said to mount the bilstiens and jack each side flexing turning the wheel
to see if I needed longer lines
Theres a difference in options as I'm with you thinking the lines should be longer.

The on the rox rox leveling kit has longer lines and shocks.

Keeping stock shocks with add a leaf rearch spring the shocks definitely are riding maxed out but those are 20.00 passenger shocks left on a lifted jeep.

My rear wheels are an inch further in than the front. Wheel spacers would be great to even the stance or am I off?
 

Andydaniel1371

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I installed longer front brake lines. Spent a lot of time finding the right fittings but it worked out. To start out you will need longer lines when you install longer shocks. if you do the add a leaf and keep the stock shocks you are fine. Just a few measurements, the stock lines are 15 1/4 inch from the hard line to the banjo center, and the actually flex area between the crimps is 12 inch. I used three fittings and a 18 inch line, from hard line to center of banjo 20 3/4 inch, and between the crimps 15 1/4 inch. Well that was a little to long, had to twist the line to make an "s" curves so the lines will not rub on tire. That worked and i added 1 1/2 inch wheel spacers so all is well. However i delieve a 16 inch line would be better and have already ordered them for my sons Roxor, plan to lift his this week. The install is easy, first fitting goes right on the hard line and converts the male m10x1.00 thread and bubble flare to a female 3/8x 24 standard flare. Then you install the second fitting through the rigid frame mount, male 3/8x24 standard flare to a 3an male fitting. When i installed this fitting it was loose to the frame mount so i used one of the old banjo bolt crush washers to take up the extra room then the two fittings don't move around in the frame mount. the last fitting is a male 3an to the banjo bolt on the caliper, you should always use new crush washers. And last install flexible line. I bought the DOT approved lines. All in all turned out well cost just under $85, with the 16 inch lines should be about $75.

PARTS:
Crush washers, Earl's Performance, #EAR-177101ERL, $6.28 x1

Flare to 3an fitting, Russell Performance, #RUS-643961, $8.99 x1

Hard line adapter, Edelmann, #EDD-271300, $3.99 x 2

Banjo bolt fitting, Russell performance, #RUS-R4047C, $6.99 x 2

16 inch flex line, Russell performance, #RUS-656242, $14.99 x 2

18 inch flex line, Russell performance, #RUS-656042, $22.99 x 2 (this is what i used, 16 inch line should fit better)

You can get it all from SUMMIT RACING EQUIPMENT.

1 1/2 Iinch wheel spacers all four, GDSMOTU, #SPCR-0007, $69.99, Amazon.
For you guys planning on different rims, i have measured the stock rims, they have a offset of "0", So adding 1 1/2 inch wheel spacers is like a rim with -38mm offset. The point is negative offset moves the tire outward, offset is measured in mm.

Also...
Thanks for all the work of listing ur parts to help the next guy!

20190512_174312.jpg
 

jrobz23

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My rear wheels are an inch further in than the front. Wheel spacers would be great to even the stance or am I off?

No need. Many rigs have the front slightly wider than the rear.
 

Andydaniel1371

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Ok
I meant why 2" spacers all around?

Was thinking of 1" up front and 2" in the back
to clean it up. Just personal preference but there is a difference in width in front than rear
 

Andydaniel1371

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Ok. Just making sure those rear bilstiens were the best fit. Stock rear gives 2 1/2 inches to compress but alot more to extend if I did the math.
Thanks again for ur info.
 

Sidewaysxr

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With all i did to the suspension, yes the Blisteins improver the ride. 33-230443 are for the front and 33-230313 for the rear but this is with the lift i did. for stock height both of these may be to long for what you have. i know for sure on the front you will need longer brake lines. even with what i did the rear blake line seems OK.

Check this site for the correct length
Bilstein 5125 Offroad Shocks - Shockwarehouse.com
I have a 2020 with the 'factory lift' - will these shocks work? Thank you
 

Haerterich

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normally i measure the shock ride height, mounting point to mounting point, they pick the shock the puts that measurement in the middle of the shock stroke. Blisteins list the valving of the shock, first number is compression and second number is rebound. Due to the weight of motor on front axle i go with the higher valving in front and less in the back. If your shock ride height is 16 to 18, a little each way, these shocks should work well.
 

EliRox

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I have a 2020 with the factory lift, 235/85R16 tires on the stock rims, and the Bilstein shock combo, 33-230443 (front) and 33-230313 (rear), were a great improvement over the stock shocks. Much better on and off-road.
 

Vanishingpoint

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I have a 2020 with the factory lift, 235/85R16 tires on the stock rims, and the Bilstein shock combo, 33-230443 (front) and 33-230313 (rear), were a great improvement over the stock shocks. Much better on and off-road.
Did you have the kyb shocks with the factory lift?
 

Sidewaysxr

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normally i measure the shock ride height, mounting point to mounting point, they pick the shock the puts that measurement in the middle of the shock stroke. Blisteins list the valving of the shock, first number is compression and second number is rebound. Due to the weight of motor on front axle i go with the higher valving in front and less in the back. If your shock ride height is 16 to 18, a little each way, these shocks should work well.
Thank you For the reply. I’ve got a winch (not installed yet) and will definitely want to go with the higher valving up front.
 
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